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Effing Door Lock

Fu Manchu

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This door lock is doing my head in.

For a start. When I lock it, it triggers the horn and won't lock. Only sometimes.
I have extra door insulation in and have found that to be the problem.
That's ok. sorted.

Now I go to put all the lock etc back in and test it.
Can't open the door can I!

So search a bit and find a fix by putting pressure on the lock and bammo! It opens.
Do this for a week.

Now I have a couple of locks to work with on this.
They both work perfectly out of the car.
Plug it in and its all good dangling from the door.
Solenoid works, door locks unlocks (with full travel) and the handle lever opens the catch.

Replicate this with spare lock.
One is brand new. One is old but in great condition.

Put it in the car and it won't work!

What is happening is the solenoid is rebounding and locking again. This disengages the lever from the handle (exterior and interior).

Eff's sake! There is nothing different. Whether its dangling from the door plugged in or in the door. Nothing is different.
I don't have the interior rods connected and I'm certain there is nothing jamming it.

I physically can't pull the solenoid closed or open. It seems jammed.

I take the whole lot out and inspect, can't fault it. Both assemblies.
 

Fu Manchu

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I might have had a win.
The push rod from the door handle seems to have been the cause. *Seems*.
If the adjustable plastic bush on the end of the rod, that fits into the lever on the latch assembly, is adjusted down too much, it might stop the lock from working through its full range.
I guess over time, these, on some cars, might creep down a little.

Seems to be working so far, but I might leave the door trim off for a week or two, just in case.
 

Fu Manchu

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I should add, that I adjusted this earlier into the problem and it hadn't made any difference.

lets see.
I know many have had this happen and had a door trim on, meaning they can't open the door at all.
 

Lex

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Hi
I had a similar thing happen last year. I couldn't open the drivers door from outside. I got in by the back door. Then couldn't open the drivers door from inside the drivers side.
Was able to get the snip of. I then used a pair of long nose pliers to pull the rod up (what the lock snip sits on). The door now opened. Took the door trim of & inspected. One of the rods was stretched or bent out of shape.
I had another car (same model) that l was able to compare with. Swapped it from the other car & all good.
I thought l was going to have a nightmare like that what l've read about some of the other members having.
 

Fu Manchu

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Good fix there.
Mine was doing it without the rods connected as well.

I went through all steps of the assembly instal one by one to start eliminating. Did this over and over.

Also, before closing the door, I'd simulate the striker with a screwdriver. (after having the door stuck closed a few times, this was a smarter choice)
What was happening is, for what ever reason, the pin that is disengaged from the mechanism when locked, was not quite re-engaging correctly and jamming. Also the solenoid, when it was connected to the harness, was unlocking and rebounding back.

Correct adjustment to open the door is for the striker not to be resting on the catch.
Also the exterior door handle should open the catch at between 30º and 90º from the door surface.

Interestingly the rod had been bent when I first installed the electric windows and this problem started on the right rear door.
I might play it safe and get a replacement rod from the wreckers.

So far, this fault hasn't happened at all since thinking I nutted this out. Door trim is going to stay off for a bit in any case.
 
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