Electric windows not working

[rory]

Bigger drill bit, it needs to eat out more than that

 

[Pickled]

Bigger drill bit, it needs to eat out more than that

I've snapped 3 drill bits already, that's what I get for using cheap bits in an expensive drill, off to bunnings..

 

[hi_ryder]

i dont always use drill bits, but when i do i make sure there half the size needed.

 

[Pickled]

i dont always use drill bits, but when i do i make sure there half the size needed.

They're* but yeah I've changed over the regulators, cheers.

 

[hi_ryder]

They're* but yeah I've changed over the regulators, cheers.

solly me engrish no so goud...

i sometimes take angle grinders to them if i cant be stuffed getting out the drill and looking for bits. how'd you go, get them working?

 

[Pickled]

solly me engrish no so goud...

i sometimes take angle grinders to them if i cant be stuffed getting out the drill and looking for bits. how'd you go, get them working?

Haha I was very tempted to do this at one point, but ended up getting out the rivets with a bigger drill bit and the new ones are working great!

 

[PUSHIN]

I used drill bits (mostly) to remove the rivets, I had to do four doors worth -.- (converted my power window crap some tidy 'winder' type doors)

Mind you, I'm pretty sure I flogged out a drill bit or two, to the point they were ineffective on the next rivet I'm pretty sure when I started having issues with them not coming out i did use a bigger bit, or in some cases just got a small chisel or something of the sort and give it a slight tap and watched them fly out (either way the face of the rivet would come off and there wasn't much left of it)

Personally I found an issue finding rivets of a similar size, and to be honest wasn't overly keen to do whole 'drill the rivets' crap again, so I ended up fitting a series of nuts & bolts, to think back now, this was most likely a rather stupid idea, due to the fact rivets in one door can be drilled out in ~5 minutes, the bolts and such I used, not so simple -.-'

Good luck!! I've actually also got a problem with one of mine, the motor itself is fine, works when it wants too (usually after a vigorous love tap..) As far as I'm aware this is a bad connection in the wiring (either the plug for the loom to the motor, or the wires for the motor themselves, can't remember 100% but just a bad connection really..) I just cant be buggered fixing it I've also bought a second hand one because I thought another one was buggered -.- turned out it was fine, just something was wired wrong or some crap, up was down down was up, couldn't understand why it wouldn't go down LOL, but yeah they can be a pain, I'd thoroughly test before replacing.

edit; 20 past 11, should have read that last post a bit more rather then a quick glance, oh well, might be useful for somebody else!

 

[hi_ryder]

motors can fail just from not lubing up your window channels. causes them to overwork and cooks the motors. when i bought my berlina the passenger front door's window had come off the regulator tracks from getting stuck going up. the regulator arm that had a broken sliding clip was bent like a banana. had to remove the regulator, hammer and straighten arm with pliers and replace the slider clip. fully cleaned off the old, then put new bearing grease on the clips and tracks and ford ly-70 lube on all the channels. been a year no problems yet, still slips up and down like new.

 

[DJ_Cosmic_Fire]

motors can fail just from not lubing up your window channels. causes them to overwork and cooks the motors. when i bought my berlina the passenger front door's window had come off the regulator tracks from getting stuck going up. the regulator arm that had a broken sliding clip was bent like a banana. had to remove the regulator, hammer and straighten arm with pliers and replace the slider clip. fully cleaned off the old, then put new bearing grease on the clips and tracks and ford ly-70 lube on all the channels. been a year no problems yet, still slips up and down like new.

This is a good point hi_ryder, I have not only replaced the complete front electric regulators but also both front the door bailey channels as they were like calamari (in shape) lol. Dry graphite powder was good for the new bailey channels, although Nulon Ezi-Glide Silicone Spray is also ok. The screws & bolts I used are Romak 20mm x 6mm Metric - 8 pack from Bunnings for $3 (4 for each side - what a great buy!). Drilling the rivets is easy - takes less than 10mins tops to get the job done, yes a drill bit may perish but whatever hey. I start with a smaller bit then work up to a larger bit until the rivet in question is no longer (in other words - destroyed) - tip for those reading this thread - you're working on a 20+ year young vehicle, so expect the unexpected. When I say this, it may well happen that some wiring between the door & cabin will need to be renewed (this is pretty easy if you know the proper techniques for checking for continuity with a DMM & then threading at lease 15amp auto electrical wire through the door grommet to new lugs in the power window module loom).

 

[savage1987]

SquaredArches.com Rear Power Window Repair Guide | SquaredArches

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