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BiancaMuscat

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Ok so yesturday my drivers seat stopped working (full electric)
And the fuse for seat memory under dash was boiling hot had to wait 10 mins before I could even touch it
Took it out and tried swapping it with the power windows fuse but it was sparking at me when I tried putting it in
I only did this twice then just took them both out.
Then started the car and instantly noticed a very loud tapping sound but only happened when I pressed the accelerator.
After about 10 mins of driving the car just died and wouldn't crank
Jump started it and it got me another 10 mins then it would die again
Also noticed before it started a little bit of smoke from the altonator

Once I got home I re wired my seats and that seemed to fix the problem
Got about 1 hours drive out of it and the tapping started happening again
Luckily I was already in my street so not sure if it would of died on me again but im pretty sure it would of.
This time seat memory fuse was fine but all my relays are really hot
(Acc relay, ignition relay, blower ihibat relay, power windows relay)

Any auto elects out there know what the f$&k is going on here?
 

accentstencil

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The alternator could be overcharging.
 

accentstencil

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Elaborate please ?
The alternator should charge at around 14 to 14.4 volts, sometimes the regulator on the alternator fails and the alternator will send a higher charge to the battery, maybe 16-17 volts which is too high. Either check the voltage at the battery with a multimeter with the engine running or take it to an auto electrician to get checked, they usually don't charge for that.
I didn't have time to elaborate this morning, getting ready for work.
 

Dave1981

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Being that you have a VY, if you can bring up "Engineering Mode" on your dash, see what the battery voltage is at idle, while at low speed, and then shut it down and see what it drops to. As accentstencil said, at charge, 14.4v is ideal, anything above is getting into dangerous territory. You start cooking things once you get up over about 15.5v.

If its staying high, it will be the regulator gone dodgy. You can purchase just a regulator on eBay for the alternator, if you are confident of fitment and that you have the correct diagnosis, that are around $80. A full alternator off eBay is around the $170-$200 mark, so if you do end up replacing it, take into account most places will charge an hours labour on top, so an estimated guess all up at $300-$350 if a mechanic/autolec fits it up for you.
 
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