Electronic Bi-Modal Valves

[stooge]

there are 2 DIY ways to control the electronic bi modal valve controllers using arduino.
one uses the factory type PWM and the other requires you to cut the controller open and modify it.

I just went with a simple momentary switch to toggle the valves but you could use a remote relay like TazzI mentioned or you could add a Bluetooth module to the Arduino project and use a mobile phone to toggle the valves if you are keen to play with your phone while driving.

Spoiler: Factory PWM method(recommended)

you can control the valves using this Arduino pwm project and depending on the parts you use it will cost anywhere between $60 to $100.

Arduino script: bi-modal-pwm.ino - Pastebin
Zip archive: bi-modal-pwm.zip

you can use the online ide to compile the code here: Bi_modal_PWM - Arduino Create
you do have to make an account to use the online create and internet explorer does not work on that site anymore.


I used a nano board in the project

I used a fuse tap to get 12v ignition switched power from the fusebox above the battery

there is a unused bung under the battery tray that can be used to run the wires for the valve controllers

in the box

top

bottom

Needed parts:
1x https://www.jaycar.com.au/duinotech-nano-board-arduino-compatible/p/XC4414 - $29.95
1x https://www.jaycar.com.au/1k-ohm-0-5-watt-metal-film-resistors-pack-of-8/p/RR0572 - $0.55
1x https://www.jaycar.com.au/1-5k-ohm-0-5-watt-metal-film-resistors-pack-of-8/p/RR0576 - $0.55
1x https://www.jaycar.com.au/10k-ohm-0-5-watt-metal-film-resistors-pack-of-8/p/RR0596 - $0.55
1x https://www.jaycar.com.au/7812-12v-1a-voltage-regulator-to-220/p/ZV1512 - $1.85
1x https://www.jaycar.com.au/bc639-npn-transistor/p/ZT2179 - $0.95
1x https://www.jaycar.com.au/double-mini-blade-fuse-socket-wire-tap/p/SF5125 - $4.95

you can use any "momentary" switch you like
1x https://www.jaycar.com.au/ip67-rated-dome-pushbutton-switch-black/p/SP0656 - $4.95

Total for needed parts: $44.30


Optional parts:
1x https://www.jaycar.com.au/bulkhead-black-88-x-69-x-33mm/p/HB6075 - $3.75
2x https://www.jaycar.com.au/small-breadboard-layout-prototyping-board/p/HP9570 - $4.95
2x https://www.jaycar.com.au/2-way-pcb-mount-screw-terminals-5mm-pitch/p/HM3172 - $1.20

Total for all parts i used: $60.35

this total does not include the wire, you can source that pretty much anywhere you like used or new.


Plugs for controllers
if you want plugs for the valve controllers you can get these ones that john revill linked from aliexpress
according to the listing there are 4pcs in the lot so you will get 4 plugs in the one purchase.

1x: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4pc...r-Meter-MAF-Connector-Socket/32850617234.html - $21.40


Total for all parts i used including the plugs: $81.75

Spoiler: Cut the controller open method

this method is only really good if your valve controllers are stuffed(not responding to the pwm signal) or full of water like my first set were.

to control the valves this way you need to cut the controllers open and wire them up like this

using this method you will also need to unhook the spring on the valve mechanisms so the valves don't spring back open

once that is done you can use the information below

Arduino script: bi_modal.ino - Pastebin
Zip archive: bm_exhaust_mod.zip

I just used a leo board and a 4x relay board.

I used a fuse tap to get 12v ignition switched power from the fusebox above the battery

there is a unused bung under the battery tray that can be used to run the wires for the valve controllers

all wrapped up in a box and stuck to the top of the battery with velcro

Needed parts:

1x https://www.jaycar.com.au/duinotech-lite-leonardo/p/XC4430 - $29.95
1x https://www.jaycar.com.au/arduino-compatible-4-channel-12v-relay-module/p/XC4440 - $12.95
1x https://www.jaycar.com.au/double-mini-blade-fuse-socket-wire-tap/p/SF5125 - $4.95
1x https://www.jaycar.com.au/ip67-rated-dome-pushbutton-switch-black/p/SP0656 - $4.95
1x https://www.jaycar.com.au/jiffy-box-black-158-x-95-x-53mm/p/HB6011 - $4.45

Total for needed parts: $57.25

 

[KLoNe]

Great project. Subscribed!

 

[John Revill]

so I am putting a bimodal exhaust from a vf2 onto a vf1 ssv and it has the electronic bi modal valves.
these valves should be controlled by a 0~10v pwm signal and I make up the arduino script and circuit on a breadboard and only the 20% duty cycle works(open), 80% (close) wont work.
so I stuffed around for a while trying to figure out what was wrong until I got sick of it and decided to make them run directly off 12v power and reverse the polarity to change the valve state.

so I cut them open and I found out what was wrong with them lol, the rusty water poured out.

one motor was totally seized which explains why I got nothing out of one valve and the other still turned but was full of water which explains the strange on and off results I was getting.



so at this point I decided to just keep doing what I started out to do and set them up for direct power input and I will make the Arduino script control relays to select the polarity which will open and close the valves.

I am waiting for the glue to dry now and if everything goes well I should be able to post up some info about the script and circuit.

Good idea Stooge, but will probably need to use a transistor to power the motor and PWM the power to it. Driving a brushed DC motor at full power with no rotation will probably overheat the motor or burn out the brushed or windings. Worst still it may damage the gears.

I've noticed with the original circuit that once it has closed the valves, with the motor drawing as much as 4 amps, the circuit board reduced the power to the motor to provide just enough torque to keep the valve closed, drawing only about 0.2 amps. When power is cut to the motor, the heavy spring on the valve causes the valve to open with no power required. I think keeping that small motor at full power will not last for long.

I also noticed in one of your photos that one of the gears already has a damaged tooth.

 

[stooge]

I am removing the spring because i dont want the valve to spring back when the vehicle is parked.
The only time the motor will get power is when i toggle the open/close state.
Also without the spring i can use a lower voltage/current to drive the motor.

I am still going to try and make the pwm circuit for the original vavles once i get one thats not full of water.

 

[stooge]

I just unhooked the spring and it sits in a spot that does not get caught up while operating the valve and it does not move from the spot its sitting in so it could be reconnected if ever needed.

the controller works and controls the exhaust port.

I think if I was to cut into the controller again I would just cut a small part out from behind the motor and solder in the wires then silicone it up.
doing it that way saves cutting the whole controller open, the only reason I cut the whole thing open is I was not sure where things were inside and after the rusty water coming out they had to be taken apart to clean them.

now I just need to make an Arduino script to do a timed pulse to relays that set the polarity for the motor and a button should do what I was manually doing on the battery with the wires.

 

[TazzI]

Stooge, look at grabbing a remote relay off of fleabay. Can use that to trigger the arduino to open or close the bimodals.

The remote relay is what another bloke is using for the on/off style bimodals. Add that onto what you done with the arduino will make it work with the PWM style ones your using.

Open/close from inside the cabin that way.

 

[stooge]

that's a good idea but for me I am just going to use a simple little button like this to just toggle the state each press.

I am just going to stick it under the steering wheel or something out of the way.
knowing my luck I would lose the remote and with the ssv being keyless I keep the keys in my pocket so I cant keep it on the keyring.

still there is no reason the button I use could not be replaced with a single remote relay to simulate the click in Arduino or even have both remote and button installed at the same time.

the main problem I am facing now is getting the mufflers installed they are a clamp style off a 2017vf and mines a 2014 with the flange type and I am not a welder

 

[stooge]

got around to finishing the job now I just need to source a mid section without the muffler.

I just went with a simple momentary switch to toggle the valves but you could use a remote relay like TazzI mentioned or you could add a Bluetooth module to the Arduino project and use a mobile phone to toggle the valves if you are keen to play with your phone while driving.

if I manage to find a valve controller that is not full of water I will make a pwm circuit to control it but for now this works for me.


Arduino script: bi_modal.ino - Pastebin
Zip archive: bm_exhaust_mod.zip

I just used a leo board and a 4x relay board.

I used a fuse tap to get 12v ignition switched power from the fusebox above the battery

there is a unused bung under the battery tray that can be used to run the wires for the valve controllers

all wrapped up in a box and stuck to the top of the battery with velcro

PARTS USED

DuinoTECH Lite (LEONARDO)
https://www.jaycar.com.au/duinotech-lite-leonardo/p/XC4430

Arduino Compatible 4 Channel 12V Relay Module
https://www.jaycar.com.au/arduino-compatible-4-channel-12v-relay-module/p/XC4440

Double Mini Blade Fuse Socket Wire Tap
https://www.jaycar.com.au/double-mini-blade-fuse-socket-wire-tap/p/SF5125

IP67 Rated Dome Pushbutton Switch Black
https://www.jaycar.com.au/ip67-rated-dome-pushbutton-switch-black/p/SP0656

Jiffy Box - Black
https://www.jaycar.com.au/jiffy-box-black-158-x-95-x-53mm/p/HB6011

 

[Ron Burgundy]

This is brilliant

 

[426Cuda]

Great job. All gibberish to me but...Would you build a few for the right price?