Electronic Bi-Modal Valves

yeah they still work fine, it will sound better once I find a better mid section or I get this center muffler delete welded in


the afm sounds like ass but that's something to tackle another day.

the only thing I had a problem with the bi modal mod was the wire I ran to the switch did not have very good shielding on it so sometimes the valves would change state so I just put a relay down the back in the box and had the switch trigger the relay.
I could not be bothered re running a new wire so it was the quickest fix lol but if you use wire with decent shielding it should be fine.

the better way would still be to build the pwm circuit but finding that information will be hard because most people look to profit off things like that instead of sharing the info.
there is one thread where a guy that has built a circuit he is selling but he also shared all the information involved(awesome guy imo)
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forum...full-open-close-non-factory-npp-retrofit.html

it is complicated though and it can be simplified using Arduino, oneday I will find myself near a wrecker in perth and snag a few more controllers then I will take a stab at building the pwm circuit but for now my hacked up set work perfect.

 

Yes that is correct, the way i set mine up is to just pulse the motor for about 800ms with 12v to change the valve state and unhook/disable the spring so the valve remains closed while the vehicle is off.

I did experiment with making a full pwm or stepper circuit with arduino but i found when i started the vheicle the fluctuation in voltage from starting caused the motors to move to a random position so it was an instance where "keep it simple stupid"(KISS) was required.

For around $40 it did what i wanted so i am happy enough.

 

I managed to pickup another set of mufflers and controllers last week and these ones are not full of water
I am working on the pwm one in my spare time but I am not very experienced in this type of stuff so it is a learning process but when/if I get it all working I will post the schematics and info needed to diy it.


its all spaghetti now but like I said its a learning process for me too

 

Thats if i can even get the thing to work, my pwm signal looks square and operates upto 10v but my valve controller does not respond.
I think its a hz issue so i am looking into trying to change that in arduino.

i think your cost of around $100 for the parts is spot on.
You might be able to lower the cost a bit by just using a momentary toggle switch and removing the rf remote and bluetooth but even then the parts will still be like $85+.

 

ahh sweet thanks for that link john, i noticed you were using a nano board so i tried my nano and the valve responds now.
I was using a leo board and I think that was the problem.
now my valve controller responds to the pwm writes of 51(close) and 203(open)

Spoiler: my poor mans oscilloscope lol

i am not 100% sure all the values are correct until i test more but the valve controller is holding its self in the closed position which would prevent the spring on the muffler opening it.

 

the lack of wiring on that makes me wonder is that for a vehicle that has bi modals from the factory and it just adds remote control?

if the large relay you are talking about is the one lmoengnr has posted I think that's for vehicles that have bi modals already.
the circuit I am making and the module john has made is to add bi modals to any ve/vf that never had them from the factory.