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Enclosure advice

Fun_Bucket

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Ok, i come up with a list of questions, than i am unsure of the answers to. I've read quite a bit on the net, and now i know a lot more than i did when i started, but i still obviously have a loooooong way to go!

1- Does it matter where i put the ports on a box, in relation to where the sub is mounted
2- How does the positioning of the sub in the boot, and the direction it fires affect it's SPL levels
3-If maxuimum SPL is the target, should the inside of the box be dampened.
4-Can the use of Polyfill on a Ported enclosure, increase volume levels
5 With my Head Unit, i have some options with the Sub settings, 30,50,60,80,and 120hz. And also normal and rev- The best i could get out of it before, was set at 80hz, in rev mode...But adjusting the HZ setting, had almost no affect on the sound at all.
6-In full pass mode on my amp, there is a tuning adjustment for the HZ, which goes as low as 30hz, or should it just be run on LPF? I realise it's a lot of questions, so thank you heaps to anyone that can answer even just one of them. And also a big thank you to Stone X and Calais Cruzin for your help with this so far.
 

holdenboy

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1. Ideally you want to mount the ports on the same side as the subs, although not overly important.
2. In most sedans, sub box at the rear and facing towards the tailgate is usually the loudest....although not the most practical spot ;)
3. No, for maximum SPL you wanna build the box as strong as possible, inside the box should be coated with fibreglass resin (firstly to aid in strength and secondly to aid in air movement as the resin is smoother than MDF)
4.No
5. The LPF setting in your head-unit is basically the same as a LPF on your amp, only digital. Maybe the filter on the amp was set to 80hz and turning the head-units filter above this wouldnt make a difference as the amp is filtering at 80hz anyway.
6. LPF would be the ideal filter but i will admit im not too familiar with the full pass mode.

Hope this helps.
 

Fun_Bucket

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Thanks that helps a lot. Ive never had any experience with fiberglass before, is it a difficult task. I'll do some research on it tonight and see what i come up with. Will the current dimesnions of the box still be alright by the time the ports and resin go in? From everything i've read on the interent, it says ported enclosures are gererally larger than sealed ones. From what i can see with the one i'm building it's actually a little smaller, but being a different shape i know it could be larger internally..If the sub is going to face the rear towards the tailgate, does the sub require a minimuim distance between itself and another object e.g the tailgate for optimum performance?
 
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holdenboy

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Fibreglassing the inside of the box isnt a hard task.....just get yourself some resin, mix it up with the catalyst then paint it on the inside of the box, just like paint itself.

Another little secret is to eliminate all right angles inside the box by either pouring resin into each corner while the box is sitting on an edge so it forms a 45 degree angle, or buy some 45 degree angle wood strips and screw/glue them into the corners. See attached pic. (i used modelling clay for where the corners meet, the smoother the better ;) )


Whats the outside dimensions of the new box, and wood thickness?
I'll let you know its internal volume.

For rear loading, anywhere around 6-10" from the tailights is the way to go, you'll have to get on a spl meter to test the optimum clearance though.
 

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Fun_Bucket

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It's 18mm, 460 x 440 x 500, Stone X did some calculations earlier and came up with 3.04ft^3 When apllying the resin, is it true i shouldn't apply it to the baffle board? And should i resin it before, or after i've made my port holes?
 
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holdenboy

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Why not apply it to the baffle board? thats the most important panel to resin (make stronger mainly). You can apply to resin whenever you like, dosent matter.

Also worth doing is flaring the inside and outside ends of the ports, increases SPL and reduces port noise. Not sure if you wanna go down this path or not but worth mentioning anyways :)
 

Fun_Bucket

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Definately willing to go that far with it, so long as the dimensions are right that i've made up. I went into bunnings today to try and get some PVC to make up the ports, but they didnt have the flange attachments in the right size, so i'm gonna gice REECE a go tommorow morning. That bit about not resining the baffle board was just something i read on the internet. That's why i was saying, even though i can spend the time searching the net for info, where it's the right info is a different story. I've had a look and done some measuring, the ports are gonna have to be on the side, thats the only place they will fit. Im just hoping there will be enough clearance for the sub to go in, because the ports are supposed to be 13 inches long.
 

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Just make sure theres enough room between the inside edge of the port and the box wall, should leave atleast 3".
 

Fun_Bucket

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Should be 3'' easy, on a different note WTF is that sticking out of your sub box!!
 

holdenboy

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Not really a different note mate.....its a port ;)

10" internal diameter.
 
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