hi i have a vs commodore v6 1996 that last night while leaving work in the pitch black dark (power outage) decided to start then just die after bout 5 seconds, so i thorgh maybe it was teh dfi so i swaped that quickly and nope nothing, anyway cause i couldnt be bothered at that time of night i got RACQ out and he checked it over etc and found that the engine fuse in engin bay was blown, so he changed it and it blew straight away, did this 4 or 5 time while disconnecting sensors to see if any were faulty, (o2 sensors, throttle sensor IAC) so could still be other sensors as he didnt disconnect them all) anyway he ended up calling a tow truck at 2 am and just before tow truck got there (the other RACQ guy left for another job) i decided to put a fuse in there and it cranked over....WTFFFF. Didnt want to risk it and just let it get towed so i got home. today put fuse in and it started fine.... im thinking a short somewhere, im pretty sure i swapped relays round before i called RACQ and it wasnt that even the racq guy did that. where should i look? ive herd oil pressure switch? could the CAS do this? i dont think it would short, it is a new one (genuine) car did do this a few weeks ago(but no engine fuse was blown just died) and i swaped the dfi module and it started but then i swaped module back and it was fiine so yeh sorry for long post any help would be great,
Could be the oil pressure switch shorting internally....try doing a fault code check. Also try pulling the fuel pump relay when it keeps blowing fuses - if it doesn't blow then it may be the fuel pump shorting.
Mine did this a few years ago while my brother was looking after it. Engine fuse would blow while sitting at lights, and often when turning corners and like your's, as soon as he put a new fuse in it would blow. I checked the radio wiring on a hunch and found it was a speaker wire, reject shop electrical tape had come unstuck and bare wires were randomly touching the chasis, rewired with plugs and quality electrical tape and never happened since! Might help if you have after market stereo setup...
update, started car fine then noticed that the alternator is getting really reallyt hot when only started for 2 min from cold.., and then wiggled the main alternator wireing and the cars now missing, disconnected alternator wireing and still missing...... could it be this thats causeing it? no fuse blew though (yet) im got a spare alternator and will redo wireing, what type of wireing should i use? cheers
Use the thickest wire you can get - it has to carry at least 90 amps at times. You should replace the complete wire as it goes brittle quite some way. You were lucky spotting that as if it breaks off whilst driving you have a hot unfused wire running loose under the bonnet.
i found 125amp wire from supercheap, 11.99 a metre, thick enough i think lol anyway ended up putting it all back togeather but engin fuse blew straight away.....so swaped the efi relay over and then fixed up a coil pack that wasnt connecting properly and it started however seeing that the fuse blew straight away after the fuel pump primed (relay clicked off is when it blew) so it had to be something with the fuel pump or oil pressure switch, so i replaced the oil pressure switch as the black part of it spuun but not the metal part if that makes sence?? also wiggled and tuged etc on all wires and sensor wires round engin and even fuse box and it didnt stall or blow any fuses so far ive dun round 20k's and nothingg happened and started it bout 10 times and no fuse blown, hopeing its fixed but who no's, mite do it again, then its off to the auto elect let it be there probelm haha
update, car died again and wont start, can hear fuel pump, not sure if its got spark yet, fuses are all fine however the engine fuse is a little tinny bit melted but nothing major i went to start it and it started then died straight away....was cold (didnt start it since last night, so if its the CAS could it cause that? seeing it wasnt hot? also no error codes, could it be throttle position sensor??
Only thing I can add is that when it started and died straight away, that could have been the engine running purely on the 2 second fuel prime from the ECU....when the engine starts, the fuel pump should then receive power from the oil pressure switch once oil pressure rises. It can also receive power from another source also apparently, but the oil pressure switch can fail internally and blow engine fuses if it shorts internally. Check page 286 in the Gregorys manual (PM me your email address if you want a copy).
thanks hako, checked all that and found out its the wreing loo\m, that goes to the dfi module is corroded/shorting internally. so i need a new wiring loom, as soon as i touch the red wire it coughs and spluttersw then sometimes just dies where can i get the loom from? holden? ive herd of patch looms for this as its common, if i can get a connector from the auto electriction ill just redo the wire about 10cm back and reconnect it back? however id prefer to redo the whole wireing loom as if one wires stuffed the others wont be far behind as the way the wires go it would put allot of strain on it cheers for all the help with this hopefully it was this all along, annoying but in a way a easy fix
all fixed, got a genuine replacement patch loom from a holden wreckers here (new loom) for 25 bucks, holden wanted round 50ish which aint that bad but they didnt have one in stock the red positve wire didn't have a good connection resulting it it coroding/burning the connector, thats why it sometimes did it and sometimes didn't as with the movement of the engin would have caused it to connect then not etc plus this positve wire goes straight to the engine fuse, as well as oil pressure sensor, injectors, cam sensor etc hence why engin fuse would have blown some soldering/cutting wires later and it seems to be running ok and staring fine etc thanks for all teh help hopefully its fixed now
