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engine mounts replacement mounts longer i cant get the motor to align even with guide

VTL67Calais

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Hi i know this topic has been done "engine mounts easy way " which explains it simply and makes total sense. But when i lifted my motor up and pulled out the mount the size difference was about an inch so thats an inch both sides and the angle seemed a bit worse too. They are transgold mounts, im unsure but was advised theses are the right ones and i presume are the same as the vt ecotec as i have an l67 supercharged? i understand that i needed to do the drivers side first which i have the bolts in loosely at the top, the other side i know to take off the side mount which ive slightly lostened the bolts while trying to work this out all yesterday. Another question im changing the casters and bushings and removed the front bushings to give me more room which it really didnt make much difference, this coudnt effect it surely? Any suggestions even on how to use a crow bar ect im not real muscly so prying it may be hard, Ive set it up in my old mans garage while im staying in SA so my old man can help with something little but he really is not mechanically minded. Thanks everyone for reading.
 

dirty hands

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recheck the mounts required for the supercharged
 
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VTL67Calais

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Rang supercheap auto and they looked on the computed and matched the motor and they are the same ones so I must be just doing something wrong, maybe jack the engine up with wood on the side instead of the middle?
 

Jxfwsf

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The old ones will be sagged.
2.5cm in height difference isn't that much, as long as the engine isn't hitting the firewall or trans hitting the tunnel then it'll be fine.

I wouldn't jack it 1 side at a time, that'll just make it harder as chances are you are going to have to move the engine around a bit to get the new ones to line up.
 

Dirbatua

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yea the ecotec engine mounts can be a bitch to get into position properly.

I usually drop the drivers side in, do the nuts up a few turns on the k-frame take the passenger side plate off with and put the new engine mount onto it and put that into the k-frame with the nuts done up a few turns and wiggle the engine around until i can get the bolts back in then tighten everything up.

But i use an engine crane and not a jack to do this.
 

VTL67Calais

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Thanks for the replys trying it again tonight, the engine can only go so high as the supercharger elbow at the back hits the back of the engine bay, so its a tight squeeze. Any other tips without a crane appreciated and all replys im grateful for thanks everyone :) Cheers!!
 

dirty hands

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with a lot of care ..shorten the hight of top or lower mount threads just enough to fit them in .
. so the remaining thread and nut still does the job
 

VTL67Calais

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Thank you dirty hands, and everyone else who contributed, i just read your post after only getting the bloody things in 30min ago haha. Yes I can see that would have helped especially if it was just me which it usually is. I always reply and leave my out come when iu make a post , so heres the result, i rang around to see if any one had a long crow bar before buying one and was lucky my old man new someone, we had two of us working on the drivers mount with the passengers side totally removed and its bracket. He pushed down and up on the crow bar while i lowered the jack in increments, bit by bit it started to align by itself, with a bit of jimmying. then the crow bar was cought in the middle once in place so i was underneath hammering the bar back while the mount stayed in place. once the bar was pulled out bang it slipped in FINALLY 2 days of hell , my worst effort yet! The passenger side was easy, i hadnt lowered the jack down really far yet as i just did a small bit at a time but all i did then was bolt up the top to nuts and the bottom two loosely and then tightly did up the side mount nuts as i lowered it some more, it was so so easy this side took minutes where as the drivers side took forever.

I agree that they either go straight in or they are a headf**k . My mounts were seriously mangled, the metal bar bent, rubber worn away and sunk about 3 cm with cracks and creases all over, this was also my first go and i usually can pick most things up, but this was hard work! Unsure if the l67 motor made a difference as the elbow at the back had very little clearance from the fire wall.

Thanks everyone!!!
 

Immortality

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The important thing is you got there in the end. The drivers side is always a PITA.

Top marks for determination :thumbsup:
 

Jxfwsf

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How is the rear crossmember mount?
If it was sagged excessively it'd explain why you couldn't jack the front up without it hitting the firewall.
 
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