Engine rattle on down rev

[EYY]

Understand mate. I’ve done that before, but ended up being badly burnt with a bill of over $500 and they couldn’t even fix my problem whilst charging $114 an hour. Never again will I do that. Ended up fixing it myself - was just about ready to sell the car though but glad I didn’t. Was a steep learning curve. Ended up going back to them once I fixed it and told them what I thought of their ability and knowledge as ‘specialists’. Got a $300 refund in the end because I think they were embarrassed that an unqualified uni student was able to sort something they couldn’t.

I know it’s frustrating, but I think it’s worth persevering. An hour or so max to put stock rockers back on is definitely worth it. If still playing up, then send it off. Just my opinion of course. Nothing to be scared about with these engines - they’re pretty bulletproof things, I don’t think you’ll make any critical errors at all.

 

[losh1971]

This bloke looks after me pretty well. He spent most if a day replacing engine mounts on the ute, which has A/C and makes it a big job, that was $220 cash. He wants to test oil pressure first up to eliminate that as the cause.
I could fit the old rockers but I mixed all the parts up not thinking i would need to refit them. Should have had a cardboard box on hand and pushed the rods through in order along with the rockers.
TBH I'm so bummed i just CBF replacing every rocker and then potentially having to refit the new ones back using longer rods and shimming where needed.
I have a pretty good incling that the chain is knackered. That i can deal with but if the cam has spun a bearing it will really suck. I already replaced the manifold gaskets a year or so ago.

 

[EYY]

Doesn’t really matter about order on one of these old things mate. The ‘new’ rockers you fitted are second hand anyway - just modified for the v6.

220 is very good price for engine mounts - they’re not fun. Hopefully it’s something simple anyway. The mechanic may want to refit old rockers to eliminate them as a possibility I’d say so make sure you take them with you.

 

[losh1971]

Thanks for that id better pack them up, even though they are all mixed now.
When he calls me once he has the front cover off i will tell him about some of the low preload and which valves were suspect, which seem to be ok except the last two cyls on the passenger side. Where they would have been 1/2 a turn at best. Although the middle cyl on the same side was on the lower range as well.
And yes he definitely looked after me with the mounts. I was expecting to pay over 500 and wasn't sure how i was going to pay him when it was in there for two full days. I was shocked when he told me the price. He also replaced my CAS for 50 and I gave him the part. I like him because he has no issue in me supplying the parts. He tells me too sometimes otherwise he has to mark them up and wack on GST and freight.

 

[losh1971]

Got everything back together tonight and warmed up the engine for 15mins. Rattle is still there. Anyone think it would be worth putting in some lifter free up, or am I wasting 15 bucks?
It will be Tues arvo before I have a diagnosis. The noise sounds like it is in further than where the chain runs but having had noisy diffs before and told I had shot a front wheel bearing when the mech used his stethoscope. I know noise travels, because the diff noise was a worn pinion and carrier bearings. I don't know if the same applies to engine rattles?

I guess I am hopeful that I have not spun a cam bearing as that will mean manifold off and probably a set of lifters. But until it's looked at I am merely playing a guessing game. Spun cam bearing is my worst case scenario as it will be big money and I will still have oil leaks.

He is considering engine removal depending on the issue as it is not a lot to hoick it out, especially if the sump needs to come off. The ease of working on it will make engine removal a definite possibility. If he does that I will get the sump resealed and RM replaced as both are leaking.

Can anyone tell me what happens if it is a spun cam bearing? Is that the end of the engine or can a new set of bearings be put in. Would I need a new cam or can I use the cam from the donor?

One last question is it safe to drive? The local bloke said it should be ok to drive the 1hr round trip to Town if I need too. I'm dubious in case I blow the engine completely.

 

[delcowizzid]

If it's a spin cam bearing you may as well get a new engine once it spins bigends normally fail soon after due to lack of lubrication and crap from the cam bearing going down the gallery

 

[Lex]

Might be the balance shaft?
You have said it was noisy. Maybe getting worst?

 

[losh1971]

If it's a spin cam bearing you may as well get a new engine once it spins bigends normally fail soon after due to lack of lubrication and crap from the cam bearing going down the gallery

Oh **** that sux 700 bucks for a SH engine plus fitment 6hrs. The donor engine is an unknown and needs tearing down to replace so many leaks it's not funny. Engine in the donor is not running and I would need to have it running for at least 15mins to determine it's condition. I looked at it the other day and no fuel pump prime, dash lights but no crank. NFI if I spend the 80 bucks on a pump plus another 80 on a starter, if that would even get it running.
Far out I wish the one bloke who could tell me by having a listen would actually give me five minutes and actually listen to it. Instead of saying he is too busy.

 

[losh1971]

Might be the balance shaft?
You have said it was noisy. Maybe getting worst?

The original noise went from a light knock after 1min of running to virtually unnoticeable after another 60 seconds. This noise is 30 times louder. If I want to keep this ute, I might have to get the engine out of the wagon, tear it down and do some extensive work to make sure it is sound enough to be put in the ute. Because even if I buy a $700 engine it will only come with three month warranty and could **** itself in a years time.

AFAIK the balance shaft knocks tend not to get much worse and will tap away for ever.

Far out I have spent 100s of hours and now big money on this ute and it could be completely fucked.

 

[losh1971]

If it's a spin cam bearing you may as well get a new engine once it spins bigends normally fail soon after due to lack of lubrication and crap from the cam bearing going down the gallery

Hoping this is my last question. What has to come off before the mech will know whether it is a spun cam bearing? Can he tell by removing the timing cover? It would be good if he can figure out the problem without spending 6hrs tearing it down, only to tell me I have to rebuild or bin it. I will be happy to spend 2-3hrs on labour to find the fault.