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[Ecotec] Engine Rebuild

acarmody

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Yep I am hopefully going to get my engine rebuilt soon due to a thrown bearing, I thought that while it was out to get the whole engine done. I was just wondering if anyone can spot anything I might have missed or should get done.

Parts:
COMP Cam Camshaft [216°/216° at .050", Intake Lift .317" (.507" lift at 1.6:1 rocker ratio), Exhaust Lift .317" (.507" lift at 1.6:1 rocker ratio), 111 LSA]
ACL Race Conrod Bearings
ACL Race Camshaft Bearings
ACL Crankshaft Bearings
ACL Race Pistons with rings (make 10:1 compression)(20 thou over)
ACL Full Gasket Kit
Rollermaster Double Row Timing Chain
Crow Conical Valve Springs
Crow Molychrome Spring Retainers and Collets
ARP Head Stud kit
ARP Main Stud Kit
ARP Conrod Bolts

Some work I will be getting done:
Chemical Clean
Piston Bores bored out to 20 thou over
About 10.5:1 Compression through heads shave (anyone know how much it needs to be shaved?)
Conrods and Crankshaft remachined
Heads tidied up (I've read that the Ecotec heads are quite good, any comments?) and valves reseated
Custom Tune

I dont know about new lifters as my current set were replaced by my mechanic less than a year ago, I just don't know what brand. I can get new standard Crow Cams lifters for $224, but I might just get the rebuilder to check the current ones.

So can you find anything missing? If so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

-Cheers,
Adrian
 

VYFORI

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Are you getting a turbo or blower ??? but by the compression you are not !!
Are you strokering it to 4.2lt or after all these parts you are still at 3.8lt....

If you going to rebuild it strocker it COME racing..... blower it.... because if not just replace your
engine with a L67 SC.... my 2c.. thats what im thinking of doing...

It looks to be pretty right.....

RIK
 
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p_schrapel

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hey mate. if u r going to put main studs in u will have to get your block line bored, but if u arent going to be running big boost i wouldnt bother about it. the v6 ecotecs have 4 bolt mains standard. most people with V8's upgrade from 2 bolt to 4 bolt mains. but your v6 with the standard 4 bolt mains would be perfects, the only thing i would consider is arp rod and arp main bolts not studs
 

one_and_only2004

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If you going to rebuild it strocker it COME racing.....

RIK
Seriously, COME 4.2 Stroker's are so overrated. There's a fella on these forums who's been through a few of them, i think his name is maniac.

Don't worry about your lifters - the stock ones will suffice till you start revving to 8k..


How abouts are you going to get it tuned?
 

acarmody

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Are you getting a turbo or blower ??? but by the compression you are not !!
Are you strokering it to 4.2lt or after all these parts you are still at 3.8lt....

If you going to rebuild it strocker it COME racing..... blower it.... because if not just replace your
engine with a L67 SC.... my 2c.. thats what im thinking of doing...

It looks to be pretty right.....

RIK
No forced induction unfortunately :cry:. I want a reliable motor with renewed life that why I'm rebuilding this motor and not buy a second hand motor, I may end up having to rebuild that motor down the track. Also I'm trying not to spend more than $5000, and just the stroker kit is $5500, not including the $3000 in labour.

hey mate. if u r going to put main studs in u will have to get your block line bored, but if u arent going to be running big boost i wouldnt bother about it. the v6 ecotecs have 4 bolt mains standard. most people with V8's upgrade from 2 bolt to 4 bolt mains. but your v6 with the standard 4 bolt mains would be perfects, the only thing i would consider is arp rod and arp main bolts not studs
I didn't know there was a difference. Are the bolts generally cheaper? What IS the difference?
 

Pub247

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Studs have better clamping force and higher torque setting so when you torque them up theyll push it out to an oval hence the need for line boring/honing of the crank tunnel
 

acarmody

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Studs have better clamping force and higher torque setting so when you torque them up theyll push it out to an oval hence the need for line boring/honing of the crank tunnel
Oh well probable not needed for a slightly modified V6 than. What about the heads, studs or bolts? Also when yu say the crank tunnel do you mean the tunnel that the bolt goes down??

And for one_and_only2004 I currently have a Chiptorque chip in my car so I will send it back to them to get it dyno tuned. $200/hour for 3 hours :bang::bang:.

Oh and I've thought of something else to replace too, new engine mounts. Since they are a common problem for most cars, I might as well replace them while the engines out.

And something else, a new Gates belt.
 
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VYFORI

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Seriously, COME 4.2 Stroker's are so overrated
No forced induction unfortunately :cry:. I want a reliable motor with renewed life that why I'm rebuilding this motor and not buy a second hand motor, I may end up having to rebuild that motor down the track. Also I'm trying not to spend more than $5000, and just the stroker kit is $5500, not including the $3000 in labour
Overrated...??? it all adds up at the end KW wise.. H beam Conrods etc etc.. Yes expensive but strong...

Yeah i know they are not cheap... Im in the same boat.. i have a VY 03 ECOTEC MANUAL UTE and its now done 152,000km and im starting to upgrade/replace as things go..
Just did my Excedy clutch last month check my build thread.
How many Kms and what model is you holden mate ????
So really you only have 2K to spend on the rebuild ???
You have H beams conrods????

I havent decided if i want to supercharge or not / stroker it or keep it at a 3.8lt still trying to decide that one..
Was looking at rebuilding my engine to last lifetime too. ARP top notch product.


RIK......
 

one_and_only2004

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Overrated...??? it all adds up at the end KW wise.. H beam Conrods etc etc.. Yes expensive but strong...
They're still overrated. They're about 11k for the top notch model which only gives you about 230kw @ the fly, then if you go forced induction (which is decompressed so about 200kw+ maybe) you have to shell out for either a turbo or supercharger setup worth maybe 5k if you go cheap through a shop. Then you have to get the things tuned which as stated above me is $200/hr.
Then you have seriously inadequate brakes, a crying gearbox + driveline, engineering woes worth $1000's... should i go on?

so for roughly $20K on top of what you spent buying your car, hopefully you'll have something rivalling an ls1/2 with a maffless tune.

I'd do it if i won lotto...
 

chargedvx6

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I would consider a different piston to ACL. I've heard of a few cases where the piston exceeds the deck height thus reducing squish.

However if you are getting the engine balanced the pistons should be able to be machined down and weight matched.

Diamond pistons are hot forged powder metal and with some L67 Diamond pistons to get the correct install height should do the trick very very nicely.

http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2...tore_Code=IR&Screen=CTGY&menu0=3800&menu1=PBF
 
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