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Engine/traction control light

krusing

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I had a issue with my L77 of recent, well it was caused my me,
I did a Complete Pulley change, and putting it back together, [as I took the plastic intake manifold off in front of the Throttle Body]
I forgot to put the MAF plug back on, and threw the same fault, and felt like it was misfiring, and felt really strange in 4cyl Mode.
Fixed that fault, and cleared the Code.
But while I had the belts off, I noticed one was splitting,
So I ordered a pair of belts,
A few days later, they arrived, and put them on,
Again, I forgot to put the pipe back on plastic manifold that is on the back of the plastic manifold, the one next to the Throttle Body,
And that made it throw a code and appeared to misfire also.
 

Timmaay

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Now I've changed number 6 coil, Couldn't get the fault code to come back up, but felt like it was idling rough. Jump in tonight, ABS fault and Traction control fault lights both flash up. No fault showing on the scanner. Won't reset. 2 options now - disconnect the battery, hope the fault code goes and trade it in quickly, or set fire to the p.o.s.

Later edit; this problem has only been happening since I replaced the battery a few months ago. The old one was nearly dead, and let me down a couple of times. I replaced it with a genuine AC Delco one, from an auto parts shop. I checked the battery voltage tonight, at idle - 14.7 volts. Seems very high to me? I know it's a calcium cell one, but should the voltage really be that high??
 
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Trevor loves holden.

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Now I've changed number 6 coil, Couldn't get the fault code to come back up, but felt like it was idling rough. Jump in tonight, ABS fault and Traction control fault lights both flash up. No fault showing on the scanner. Won't reset. 2 options now - disconnect the battery, hope the fault code goes and trade it in quickly, or set fire to the p.o.s.

Later edit; this problem has only been happening since I replaced the battery a few months ago. The old one was nearly dead, and let me down a couple of times. I replaced it with a genuine AC Delco one, from an auto parts shop. I checked the battery voltage tonight, at idle - 14.7 volts. Seems very high to me? I know it's a calcium cell one, but should the voltage really be that high??
Sounds like your Alternator the problem it will do crazy stuff like that on your dash, 14.7v at idle give it some if it jumps over 15 she rooted? should be 14.4 running and about 12.6v standing.

I think someone said before about removing batteries they plug a device in so it keeps a memory you might need to get it fixed at Holden with a proper tech tool.
 
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lmoengnr

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Later edit; this problem has only been happening since I replaced the battery a few months ago. The old one was nearly dead, and let me down a couple of times. I replaced it with a genuine AC Delco one, from an auto parts shop. I checked the battery voltage tonight, at idle - 14.7 volts. Seems very high to me? I know it's a calcium cell one, but should the voltage really be that high??

Pretty normal for VE/VF charging system. Voltage is regulated by the BCM, not the alternator.
After starting, the BCM pumps up the voltage for the battery to recover.
Depending on conditions, you may see up to 15.5 volts initially, and as charge recovers, slowly drop to 13.8 volts.
You can monitor it in Engineering Mode.
 

Trevor loves holden.

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VE Commodore has a 'Green' Smart Alternator which is computer controlled to a max of 14.4V which can be problematic for the new Calcium MF batteries we're using nowadays-

So it's probably no surprise that there's a problem with you getting 15.5V running around the system although the calcium MF battery would appreciate that from time to time.

VE Commodores use Calcium batteries. The charging voltage is controlled by the PCM and can vary depending on certain conditions, Sucks to have a new car so much electronics to work out, not even a local mechanic has the knowledge to fix issues, this is a Holden special trained team issue and putting some mechanics out of business.
 

Timmaay

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OK, another update;
I don't use the car a lot, only weekends, so things don't happen quickly....
I checked the compression last week, on number 6, 150 PSI from 3 "thumps" (6 crank revolutions). I know it's not the perfect test, but I've been round long enough to know that that sort of reading should be fine, problem is not a compression related one.
Drove it today for a longish drive, engine light came back on. Got home, found codes P0174, P0306. The P0174 is lean mixture detected (Presumably from high fuel trim readings) on bank 2. P0306 is the one I've been constantly plagued with (Misfire detected on number 6). I'm really suspecting now that it's either a vacuum leak somewhere, or maybe dirty injector/s.
 

shane_3800

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Holden generic codes are usually useless. like when the engine is missing it tells you what you already know. Inspection is required.
First thing is to have the battery load tested then voltage drop checked to engine bay. The terminals could be shagged. Then I would start looking air leaks as the miss stayed at #6 when you swapped coils. Then check the coil earths there is one on eack bank with a 10mm headed 6mm bolt.
 

Timmaay

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Holden generic codes are usually useless. like when the engine is missing it tells you what you already know. Inspection is required.
First thing is to have the battery load tested then voltage drop checked to engine bay. The terminals could be shagged. Then I would start looking air leaks as the miss stayed at #6 when you swapped coils. Then check the coil earths there is one on eack bank with a 10mm headed 6mm bolt.
Battery is brand new, but this fault has really only showed up since replacing it...
 

Fu Manchu

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My misfire issue was solved by replacing the O2’s with genuine ones and then the cats (even though the temps appeared ok) which solved the lack of power and misfires.
 

Trevor loves holden.

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Battery is brand new, but this fault has really only showed up since replacing it...
Are the terminals good and tight? Also be looking at earth leads and wires around the battery if it only showed up since battery change, I was told before removing batteries in these new alloytec is to keep power to them as you change battery's as things like this can happen.
 
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