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Exan's VZ SS

Discussion in 'VY - VZ - WK - WL - V2' started by exanVZ, Oct 17, 2014.

  1. exanVZ

    exanVZ Active Member

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    Hey mate, I just popped in to update on my repair and saw ur reply, good timing.

    I've been told by some that I should be able to get like 12.9's with the power I have now, I reckon with a small cam you should be easy in high 12s. With a better diff, better suspension setup and better wheels it should be do-able for me as is. I got some 15" rims to chuck on next time I go so I don't waste expensive 19's and because smaller wheels might help. I didn't do any weight reduction either so I dunno if removing the spare tyre and all the crap from the back seats would help times too. Think I could be launching harder too so that's all I will probably be working on if I go again.

    Sounds like the trutrac is definitely worth it man, thanks for your input. It's what I'm saving for now, looking at ~$1.9k for 3.7 or 3.9 ratio and trutrac centre. I am pretty sure I'm just gonna go the 3.9 - I know it will drink a bit more on the freeway but I honestly don't even go on the freeway much - most of my driving is 0-70ish streets so it shouldn't be much different if I can keep from putting my foot down. I can already get it sideways almost anytime anywhere as is, so gotta be really careful in the wet, I think with the new diff it's gonna be even more fun!

    After that I'm probably gonna get my gearbox toughened up a tad and ~3.5-3.8k high stall in preperation for a cam. I was only gonna go for a mild cam but then I thought that if I did I might not be satisfied, so decided to go for something more mid sized with split duration which will definitely be more noticeable. I haven't shopped around or gotten pricing yet as this is still a bit further down the track for me. I'm expecting at least min $2.5-3k installed for cam + will probably do a few other things too like lifters, springs, rods etc. while I'm at it. I also have baby 5/8" headers so down the track may swap these for 3/4" or 7/8" headers and 3"+ cats.

    Won't be much left to do after that, without spending big $$.

    Oh, as for my car, it was going to cost too much to get a clubby front bar for it, they are like $1.5k+ new VS $300 for an SS bar, they are not really that different in size or shape so can only be the HSV tax. Decided not to go for it.
    Repairs are going ahead so should have it back soon. Can't wait haha, been driving my mates VT exec which is a POS and been riding my GPX250 which has more guts than the V6 haha, but the weather has been **** for bikes.

    Anyway cheers guys.

    Edit: I also came across a guy with a brand new 2.5" stainless difilippo exhaust he wants to swap for my 3". Right now I was thinking my 3" might be too big and the 2.5" might sound better, with the above mods, do you guys think a 2.5" would handle it fine still, or better to keep the 3"?
     
  2. HAZZA-VN

    HAZZA-VN Member

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    With the exhaust I've got Paccies, Highflow cats a twin mild steel 2 1/2 exhaust a muffler on each pipe and that's it. I think it sounds good its not stupidly loud when cruising along its nice at 60k and under 1700k you wouldn't know it was a v8. but over 1800k it gets loud and sounds nasty :p I work in a tyre shop and have found on any car the Stainless systems sound somewhat tinnie? or however its spelt doesn't sound as deep.

    Kinda give you an idea of how loud it is, its my car you can hear the other VY is quiet as.



    (talking about the drags) with my Best run was 13.6 with wheel spin giving me crap 60ft and just my 3.46s and half a tank of fuel. Everyone has told me I should get a 13.2 with semi slicks and less than quarter tank of fuel. Theres a meet this sunday But I don't have semi slicks and Haven't done any mods so I don't think its worth me going...

    I"m going to put 3.9s in my car too! I paid $1800 for Trutrac 3.46s all new bearings the lot all replaced, drive in drive out. I'm curious though i think its cool we have such similar power and mods I think with an OTR I'd do better that what i have now, about on par with your current time but I'm not going to bother with an OTR until i put a cam in mine I was looking on Ebay and theres cam packages tells you rough idea on what they can give you. But I'm not sure what else is needed. :(
     
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  3. exanVZ

    exanVZ Active Member

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    Hey man was just reading through your thread too, very similar progression haha. From what I read in your thread the trutrac def seems worth it. I like that you repainted your old SS rims, I did the same thing on my old car, those VY SS rims are a pain to sand haha. Here is how mine turned out, I painted em black not silver. I reckon yours look more professional.
    http://i.imgur.com/04ccaKw.jpg

    Funny how both our first time at the drags, and first run was the best time. My first run was a 13.4 and then didn't match it again all night. Maybe didn't give car enough time to cool down between runs. I think I would be happy with consistent mid 12's for a daily which seems achievable with the mods I mentioned above.

    You should be able to get an OTR pretty cheap if you want one, pretty sure you already have a mafless tune? I got my OTR for $150 on gumtree - the k&n fitler was a bit dirty but I cleaned it up and no problems.

    As for cam, I'm not too sure exactly what's needed so I'm just going to talk to my tuner when the time comes, he's done hundreds if not thousands of these so will know what works best.

    Only other mod I forgot to mention which I'm doing is that I'm gonna chuck in an android touch screen head unit and hook up a cheap reverse camera to it. Might do this before the diff.
     
  4. HAZZA-VN

    HAZZA-VN Member

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    Yeah our day got warmer throughout Is my problem and my tyres got worse as the day went on too :( Yeah I intend on getting a dashcam at some point for my car when the time comes not a rush at this point. Yeah mines a Mafless tune, with much the same Power as yours, and you would have a better throttle response more touchy because of OTR but i have good throttle from gears. so it would even it out, I left mine in 3rd not in Drive the whole time and it was pretty good by the end of track it was around the right time to go into top gear nicely but i held it in 3rd. I'll put an OTR on it when i do a Cam, because I'll get it all retuned at once. rather than another tune for OTR then another for Cam, Mine only cost me $100 for a touch up and another dyno run but still the hassle of doing it. I'll just hit it all in one go
     
  5. iChris

    iChris New Member

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    I've got a twin 2 1/2 manta system on my WK with pacemakers and it sounds good without being stupidly loud.
     
  6. HAZZA-VN

    HAZZA-VN Member

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    what were you getting for 60ft?
     
  7. exanVZ

    exanVZ Active Member

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    your car sounded nice at the meet if that's the same system? I'm trying to decide if the smaller exhaust would flow better and have a better note or if the 3" would be better as it's probably a tough louder and angrier sounding. both are stainless. 3" also has the benefit of already being on the car and less effort, but the 2.5" is brand new.

    I wrote my times down so I can compare in future if I need to. Here ya go.
    [​IMG]

    edit: I was putting too much focus on my RT and not my launches so I think that's why my times were a bit ****. RT got good though.
    Was also my first time doing any kind of racing.
     
  8. iChris

    iChris New Member

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    Yes that's what I've still got on it. It's also got high flow cats and front hotdogs.
     
  9. HAZZA-VN

    HAZZA-VN Member

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    Ok i was talking to the mechanic at work and he pointed something out thats not a bad idea,

    So to put a Small cam in you have to do basically do valve springs and the cam, Plus labour, then at least a 2500k stall converter Plus tune and your going to end up with about 360rwhp at the wheels if your lucky. that would cost around $5,000ish give or take.

    His idea, Vortec Supercharger Its a bolt on thing you could probably do yourself or a few hundered fitted by a mechanic. You would get Close if not more than 400rwhp all fine to run with everything else factory. no stall converter or anything, and you have the instant power straight of the line... the setup is about $6,000 plus say $500 fitted and tuned. more power, straight out. then if you decide down the track you want a cam, you can get them designed for a supercharger setup, then just up the boost with a bigger belt on the charger and you will make even more power! I really like the idea of a lumpy as idle, But it would be a good instant up in Power and give a fair difference on the track! more than the cam by rights.
     
  10. exanVZ

    exanVZ Active Member

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    Haha, in keeping with similar themes, I spoke to my tuner (Justin @ BYE) a while back and told him my plans and that I drive it as a daily, his suggestion was very similar, harrop 1900 supercharger. Cost is more like $10k+ though so it would probably cost me more than my car did.

    Heres a few videos from Marks workshop which show the 1900 charger on ls1 ss, some pretty nice gains. I think for me I would prefer the cam route - mostly for the sound and the fact I can do it in stages, and can always add a blower later if I want, not sure I need that much power though.

    vy ss ~460hp, no cam i think
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftyD5tA4glo

    vz ss ~500rwhp with cam too
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDEq-fsSIHs

    If you can afford it, the blower is definitely the better choice for a daily driver in terms of drivability I think, power is available right through the rev range.
     
  11. HAZZA-VN

    HAZZA-VN Member

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    Yeah thats it, Vortec is side mounted, They have different manifolds thats where the big money comes lol. :) I want a lumpy idle, but the whining is so good too its 6 of one half a dozen of the other. Cant have both to start with, the thing is though if you put a cam in it no charger to start with you need to pay that again for a different cam once you get a charger :( See how we go but i think I"m gonna go with a blower Will see how i go :) Its all in good time, I wont be doing anything until later in the year early next year the fun will begin :)
     
  12. st3r3otyp3

    st3r3otyp3 Donating Member

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    Justins going to recommend 233/233 single pattern.
     
  13. exanVZ

    exanVZ Active Member

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    Interesting, have you discussed with him before? do you know the reason for this cam?
    I had been looking at something like a VCM11 - 225˚ 232˚ .580" .590" 112.5

    Either way I would trust his experience over online research any day.
     
  14. st3r3otyp3

    st3r3otyp3 Donating Member

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    In His experience, for power, its the sweet spot for the LS1. if you want power, take his advice.
     
  15. st3r3otyp3

    st3r3otyp3 Donating Member

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  16. exanVZ

    exanVZ Active Member

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    Cheers man, I trust he knows his stuff so will have a chat to him towards end of the year when looking at getting more work done. Few other things to do first like get the diff upgraded, will see how far my tax return goes hahaha. I'm not on facebook so can't see the page, but might eventually sign up as I've also heard there are some good groups for cheap commodore parts too.

    I don't know much about cams, have been doing occasional research\learning since i got my car as I want to understand what my mods will do and why I am doing them. Single pattern means that the intake and exhaust duration are the same right? Basically the opposite of a split duration. Seems the main argument is that if you have upgraded exhaust and headers, you don't need to have the exhaust valves open as long as they don't need any extra help with flow. I also read that single pattern produces more power and torque overall then split. I find all this kinda stuff fascinating to learn about, nice lunch break reading material :)
     
  17. st3r3otyp3

    st3r3otyp3 Donating Member

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    yer single pattern is the duration is the same on intake and zorst, he does recommend a dual pattern for the 6 litres but a single for the LS1 they would have there own grind made up ready to go, just make sure that it has a good lift at or above 6.00 on both valves/

    As for LSA 110-113 (narrow) 114-118 (wide) the narrow the LSA the more choppier the idle and as a result it bleeds off compression at idle and down low, meaning that the air/fuel mix is coming in and the piston is in its compression stroke while the exhaust valve is still open,bleeding power off, however they make a bit more top end HP, for the street go a wider LSA IMO , I have a 227/239 6.09 6.17 117LSA (installed a year earlier by another shop). big split in duration. would be interesting to see what a 233/233 with same after specs would have made.
     
  18. st3r3otyp3

    st3r3otyp3 Donating Member

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    Oh and got my cam advanced 2 degrees, so the cam comes on earlier in REV range but drops a little earlier up top good trade off because how many times do you use the top end on the street?, the VCM range is good I like their vcm 9 and 21 baby cams they make good power, and are fuel efficient, when I say its the sweet spot we are talking a few extra HP over most other cams he has tuned.
     
  19. HAZZA-VN

    HAZZA-VN Member

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    Random i was just On that guys Facebook page he uploaded 253rwhp on a turbo VX ls1 your car has what 323rwhp mine has 318rwhp, Then puts this up "VY auto in for new Manta twin 3" exhaust, extractors, cats and touch up tune 396rwhp" i dont understand why your car is so far off this with similar mods? the 3" exhaust wont make that much of a difference you wouldn't think?
     
  20. NU13

    NU13 Well-Known Member

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    I've joined the BYE page for a look see.
     

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