Hey just inquiring on peoples opinions on exchange motors from repco, i got quoted roughly $4500 - $5000 for an exchange fitted. is this a reasonable price?? i have a vy sedan v6 ecotec with 150 000, would it be worth it or should i just take the hit and get a new/reasonably new used car(with low k's)?? my car has a clubsport kit and 19" mags, lowered, pacemaker extractors and full 2.5" exhaust, and final question how would an aftermarket supercharger go on an exchange motor? and on the other mechanical parts in my car having 150 000 k's worth of wear and tear,
imho - Upgrade to an L67. Whether you get an L67 fitted to your car (much better and probably cheaper than fitting an engine then retro fitting a supercharger) , or take the hit and sell your car buy a 'new' car. The latter is the better way to go. If the car is still driveable you won't take that big a hit compared to spending the money on yours.
Its very very rare for an ecotec to die after 150k, they're usually only just run in by then. If the motor is gone you could probably pick one up for a fraction of that or as Fletch said and l67 would be the best option if you're thinking about supercharging.
cheers for the help blokes, its a real pain in the ass because the engine problem is intermittent, runs fine one day and even for a week but then it will start to idle rough and occasionally has a loud ticking noise, got told it would be cheaper to exchange the motor then for them to strip it and find out what is wrong with it, they conducted several tests on the motor, compression tested, isolated each cylinder and there was no change in sound, no problems came upon the IT, the only thing that i had changed when it began to start doing it was i added a high flow cat to the exhaust system (already had pacemaker extractors and 2.5" catback, the other thing is it stopped doing it for quite some time once i had changed the oil, but not sure if this was just a coincidence or not
replacing the standard cat to the rest of the exhaust system(pacemaker extractors and 2.5" catback) wouldn't cause it to stall and idle rough, and create a ticking/knock in the engine would it??
Could it be a injecter playing up ? or not that sort of tick ? or maybe just a lifter has had enough and on its way out be a lot cheaper to fix something like that than 5 grand on a new engine. With ya oil change did ya use the same oil or change to a different weight and was it over due for a oil change ?
scrap the 6's, if you're going to be spending that much money swapping over motors may aswell spend the extra dosh and fit an ls1 with the appropriate diff/gearbox etc set up. Thats what ill be doing once i get off my P's Good luck with everything mate Cheers, Al
Good bye $8000.... OP - go on eBay and buy a motor - it'll cost you $1000-2000 and get a mechanic to change it for about $1000 max. Job done
Throw a bottle of Wynns Injector Cleaner in a tank full of fuel and see if it makes a difference. Cost about $5 You have nothing to lose.
I would be looking for a new mechanic if they are telling you it would be cheaper to replace the engine rather than find an intermittent problem. Could be something as simple as plugs or leads or coils/module... not hard to test, or injectors if nothing come up on codes or compression test. I doubt they done it correctly if the idle did not change on ANY cylinders with a balance test.
Can pick up changeover ecotecs from wreckers (carbusters) for 800 (that may be trade). A trick for checking if your injectors are playing up is to use a pair of pliers and clamp the fuel return line. This forces the petrol through the injectors. If you do this and the car runs better then it's simply dirty injectors. Places charge approx $100 to clean them out.
Yeah i think i might run some injector cleaner through it, it seems to do it more often once i have been driving it around for an hour or so i guess the problem is when it starts to get a bit hot/to operating temp which makes me wonder if it is something electrical due to the resistance caused by heat, come monday I'm going to drive it around until it starts to play up and take it straight to a mechanic shop and get them to have a listen, the thing is it was a holden dealership that told me to change the engine lol but i don't think they had a proper look at it, apart from that i can't fault the engine it still runs perfect when its not having that issue so it would seem like a waste to ditch it when there is probably a rather cheaper solution for it in regards to your question Clutchy i changed the oil to a lighter weight, i went a little bit thicker than i usually do due to it burning a bit of oil between services but then once it started having that noise(sounds much like a lifter) which would have been around 2000km after the service i changed the oil back, it wasn't over due as i service it every 10 000km.
Have you checked your O2 sensors at all? Mine were playing up and the car used to run differently depending on the weather and temperature
