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Discussion in 'VR - VS' started by EYY, Aug 24, 2015.
VS ECU? Got any info on the process?
I used a VT pcm (same as vs s3 531 pcm), with a memcal to suit the VS. Just a matter of changing to the VT dizzy, adding a MAF sensor (304, ecotec, l67 are all the same), adding a knock sensor and swapping the loom to suit which was the major obstacle because Vs s3 looms are impossible to find.
The wiring for the s3 isn't exactly well documented and I couldn't really find info on the swap at all. I was concerned that there may have been differences in the body harness on the vs s3 to work with the later engine management system, but there isn't. The oil pressure sender only has a single wire now with the s3, so no backup for the fuel pump if the relay fails.
If it weren't for the injected gas system I wouldn't have bothered. The VT loom cost $180, MAF cost $30 and the dizzy $100 plus maybe $20 in odd bits and pieces to sort out the wiring including plugs, solder, tape etc.
Few more pics from today. Used Bowdens Lazy Wax - seems easy enough to use, doesn't require as much effort as the Meguiars stuff.
That Bowdens stuff is awesome and Aussie made. Nice looking car.
+1 for bowdens stuff. Pretty much all I use on my cars. Do you still have the V6 badges on the side? Looks good on the caprice wheels
Cheers guys. Yeah been using the bowdens banana flavoured car wash for a while and its great lol
Yeah the V6 badges are still there, plan to keep them till I do away with the trolley strips. Long term plan is to get rid of the two tone and spray the whole car the same colour. TBH, I much prefer the grange wheels than the caprices. Got new tyres for the granges/senators but i need fit adjustable control arm bushes to the rear and get an alignment so doesn't chew through tyres as quickly.
Over a decade ago now had lc gtr rolling on granges too with 330 mm discs & ofcourse s3 195/getrag....people sooked about it & hated the granges lol
Can't see bowling hat or gutter protectors on yours,
Got two punctures on the caprice wheels in two days, one was a nail and haven't looked at the second one yet. Just got the spare on atm.
Finally got sick of the sunroof leaking water and the saggy roof lining. The sunroof mechanism on the drivers side is broken to pieces so it doesn't open and close smoothly. I managed to find another sunroof exactly the same for $100 to use for parts the other day so plan to replace the broken parts tomorrow.
The ASC sunroof has a crappy plastic tray that's pop riveted together with a bit of sealant. The sealant had cracked and was letting water though at the back. So I started by removing the headlining. I found that there was no headboard, and that the fabric had just been stuck to the sunroof cassette with shitloads of foam to fill the gaps around the edges. Can't believe how poorly it had been fitted. Heaps of clips had been broken and the trim was sikaflexed down in a number of places.
As you can see, it's just layers and layers of foam stuffed up there.
I went to spotlight and grabbed some faux suede in a similar colour to the original at $14.99/m, and got some sikabond spray adhesive from Bunnings. After cleaning the old foam off everything i had a go at fitting it all - it's still not complete but will try to get it done tomorrow as I need the car for work.
Cutting the hole out for the sunroof:
After doing the rear section. It's not perfect - I used the rear half of the factory board and created a slight step which allowed more headroom for rear passengers. The sunroof drain pipes made it difficult to get looking perfect.
Looking from the front.
Recovered the new sunroof slider/shade last night after work too.
Crap pics but you get the idea. The next obstacle's going to be the front half, not really looking forward to that. I'll probably try to make use of the front half of a stock head lining board/card.
Just did the H268 swap on my statesman as well. How does yours go at idle?
Mine seems to idle pretty low in gear which it struggles with a bit, might have to take mine back to the tuner. Other than that it seems like a pretty nice cam for stock comp.
I had the stock tune in mine, and have had two tunes done by different people. TBH, I didn't really notice a difference between the stock and aftermarket tunes in terms of power. However, there are noticeable improvements with the auto shift points etc. Still idles somewhere around 700rpm as it always had, and in park or neutral sometimes idles up to around 1100rpm for a few seconds and dies back down, even with a tune from ace performance. Never does it in drive though, and tbh, I'd probably stick with the factory tune if I were to do it all again to save some cash.
Before I bought the cam, I spoke to the guys at crow and they said not to bother with a cam unless fitting a decent twin cat exhaust which apparently improves bottom end torque noticeably - something I still need to do. I have one for it, but need to modify the engine pipes to suit the hsv headers.
I drove a stock one a few weeks ago and god it was slow - very reluctant to rev. Mine's very happy up at around 5500rpm unlike some of my previous stock 304's. Got a roller cam block and a bigger roller cam to go in later on down the track with flat tops etc. Just a matter of making the time to put it together.
Idle rpm is set in the tune.
Yeah, I actually got my ute dyno power run from same place with it stock and then after I'd done a full exhaust, only other change was a 70mm throttlebody.
Got reasonable increase in torque and power. But a bit dubious about power as he didn't rev it right out as he said it didn't want to, where as after a lot happier to rev to 5500.
Did feel better on the road but you sometimes wonder whether louder exhaust makes you think that
Mine does the same thing at idle where it idles higher in park and then settles down again, although sometimes it just idles high all the time in park (never really looked into it). Tune with mine made a difference as before it was tuned it used to stall when going from reverse to drive, or drive to reverse, and sometimes from park to reverse or drive, other then that I didn't notice a huge difference but it just felt better to drive. Twin cat exhaust does make a difference, I noticed that straight away when I changed it from the standard exhaust.
Yeah it's never really bothered me, its not like I spend much time in park anyway haha. @afstruct what dyno figures did you end up with?
I've tidied up the engine bay a little bit. Removed some old wiring, changed the engine loom in the process and replaced the engine covers (polished ones came with an engine I got from the wreckers). Also fitted the BF fan as you may have seen the thermo fan thread. Pics aren't the best, it was getting dark when I took them haha.
Plans are to change strut tops and fit rear camber kit shortly. Also need to fit new tyres to the grange wheels and fit them. I'm not a massive fan of the caprice rims, so I'll probably move them on soon. The exhaust will be one of the next things I change too.
Ok, so maloo so hsv quote 185kw at 4800 and 400 nm / 295 ftlb at 3800.
Standard power run was a paltry 151 hp at 4415 and torque was good at 313 nm / 231ftlb at 3915. He said it didn't want to rev past that but I never noticed that. He did know I was going to do a exhaust , just made me a little sus.
After throttlebody and exhaust which is pacemakers triys , twin 200 cel cats 2.5 into single 3.0 , wasn't cheap especially as I got the pacesy ceramic coated , but was told it would be good for up to 600 hp ,so I figured it would cover any future mods so was happy .
Second power run was 189 hp @5383 and 272 ftlb @ 3807.
He said that's pretty good i wouldn't bother with a cam but I'd already had one and was in the frame of mind to change it. It did seem to rev better.
So after cam which is the crow 4502 and normal associated new parts you do when changing cam. Different place for this run/ tune as local place doesn't tune the delco, but same mainline dyno's , both places.
With both places on graphs the speed doesn't coenside with revs and this place quoted peaks at a speed but after having this done over a year ago .
I'm pretty happy to say that the graph and revs line up with how the ute feels and seems to drive.
So I'd say 202 hp@ 4700 and 358.2 ftlb @ 3800.
In the graph it really jumps up in torque from about 2650 to 3800 and that really is reflected in the way it drives and feels and after that 4700 area, while it will rev out it is struggling and feels a bit flat .
That real upper rev range is a bit disappointing but hopefully one day compression and maybe a different manifold I don't know maybe will add a bit there , but for now and for road/ daily that midrange punch, in the right gear with 1/2 to 2/3 throttle makes it seem so effortless.
Certainly at least after 1st gear , when really up it , better to select next gear after 4800 or there abouts makes more sense because of that midrange drive up to about 4600.
When I was first looking around for someone to tune it Joe at ace performance tuning did say with that combo get around 150 kw.
I am thinking of getting it retuned ,probably with Joe , mainly hopefully get better kick down points and some better fuel economy, especially now I'vegot a rebuilt gearbox and from what auto guy said.
Sorry I'vebeen a bit long winded ha ha ha
Oh yeah and mine according to the taco sits on 750 in drive 98% of the time, a bit higher in park or neutral. Also need to keep my foot a bit firmer on brake pedal when stopped . It will roll along at about 10kmph without putting foot on throttle.
I sold the polished caprice rims to a mate, and the stockies are back on the stato. In the process of fitting a camber kit, replacing strut tops and control arm bushes. Also respraying the senator wheels and have just fitted new tyres - just haven't inflated them yet as it's easier to mask when the bead isn't seated. Only a spray can job, but this VHT stuff goes alright.
**** they come up alright
Nice work EYY. They look great.
Awesome work, vht is great to use it sprays and flows nicely.
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