Fan speed switch working intermintently

The one that contols the fan speed that drives air into driver and passenger area.

Probably been a thread about this sort of thing before but a search didn't find it.

Would it be a dickie switch or an else where problem. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.

Anybody else had the same problem? Don't want to pull the dash apart if that is where the problem isn't. I did replace a relay above the front right hand tyre last year when it was doing it. Made no difference. With summer fast approaching, you know. Cheers.

 

Thanks vn6.

Works on none or all.

The answer would be have to pull the dash out to replace resistor pack?

Got a lot of other work on.

Not looking forward to it but mainly just don't want to do it unnecessarily.

 

yeah well thanks. Just pulled everything apart with it working and put it all back together with it still working. No backwards steps in that.:yarr:

Next time it stops, if it does, will just see if the current is getting through to the fan now that the fan has been discovered hiding there under the glovebox. It could hide but it couldn't get away. I got it.

maginoodle, if the haynes manual didn't say things about pulling the windscreen wiper blades off to get at the windscreen wiper motor, I would reckon you were having a lend of me. That cover doesn't just lift off mine. Decided the resistor pack is probably where the trouble wasn't so left well alone.

Anyway cheers and thanks. See what happens from here.

 

Saw the clips maginoodle but I left them alone. Still a bit scared of breaking the thing and I doubt if the problem is there as it works on all speeds or none at all.

If I try I can read a circuit diagram, kopper. If it is still giving trouble, will take you up on your offer. In my somewhat dumb opinion it has to be either a poor connection on the switch or the fan its self.

Remember once when the trouble first started it came on with a fiddle of a nearby knob to the four speed switch, not sure if it was the thermostat one or the the one that swaps the vents around now.

Counter to that fiddling of any knob hasn't got it going since so it may have just been coincidence.

What gets it going these days? Well that's the mystery. As mentioned did replace the relay on the right hand side of the engine bay last year and it made no difference to the whole wide world except for the five bucks that I no longer had.

If its the four speed switch, reckon that is going to be a fair prick to pull right out. Looks like its worth about $228 to. Cheers.

 

Tell you what its playing hard ball.

Did a run, started off with the blower not working so I just left the stwitch on. First corner the blower springs into action.

Waited at school to pick up kids. Wasn't working when we started to come home. Left it switched on and didn't come on at all in the twenty minute drive home.

So got the test light out at home. Power at both the fuse and the relay under the bonnet. Was about to take the cover off under the glove box to get at the fan and check if the current was getting to their.

Decided I needed a torch to see what I was doing. Headed for the house. was 10 steps away from the car just thinking I better watch out for a snake I had nearly walked into the day before just outside the workshop. Hear a noise back at the car. The fan has started with no-one even touching the car.

Now was it because I had been fiddling around with the fuses. Hope you are getting on top of yours vn6pwr.

cheers.

 

well kopper 69 or anyone, in not working mode pulled the resistor under the windscreen wiper motor cover out and it checks out A O'K.

As you might expect with all speeds working.

But with ignition and fan on, there is no current getting to the plug that plugs into the resistor.

And as already stated, in not working mode current supplied to the fuse and relay under the bonnet doesn't make it work.

When current is supplied directly to the blower when it isn't working as it should, it does works.

Means it has to be the switch or thereabouts doesn't it.

 

Hot wire is what I mean from the positive of the battery terminal.

Unplug the blower and poke the hot wire into the socket and away she spins.

Prod the hot wire on points prior to this it doesn't activate the thing and that's supplying current to me.

All I was really asking is the speed resistor has to be after the 1,2,3,4 switch doesn't it.

Wouldn't make sense if it wasn't.

I have had a look at that 1,2,3,4 switch and it doesn't look easy to get right out but it is where the problem has to be unless it is on the ignition switch. The way it seems is once its going it keeps going. Its only after the ignition has been killed that it waits it moment before starting next time.


Don't want to do pull the 1,2,3,4 switch out if I don't have to but is it what you refer to as the contol box you got for 20 bucks from the wreckers?

Sorry for losing you as I probably have again but if you could answer that last question it would be handy. Might see what the local wrecker has as the next step.

 

It's not the 1,2,3,4 switch.

 

We are getting close.

The drain of the car starting is what kills the blower. That's proven.

You hear a click at the circuit breaker bar when it decides it wants to go again. Have swapped circuit breakers left right and centre. Doesn't seem to make any difference.

Strangely at the moment it is working well. Not expecting it to last but the cure was pulling the horn circuit breaker out and putting it back.

This caused a circuit to activate as it was pushed back in and now when the car is started with the fan on it stays on.

Have let the snake live in case anyone was worried one of the nation's protected species was going to get done in. Tough call with kids about but he just scuttles away.

Any electrical comments welcome.

The battery is good but cranking is slow. Suspect that might be somewhere in the mix of the problem.

How I started to get to the root cause of the problem was putting the battery charger on. Had had the ignition on for extended periods and thought I better give it charge before its flat.

Connecting the charger sprung the blower into action. Can only conclude that the problem is removed from the blower its self. There is a poor current flow in there somewhere.