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Fitting elect brake harness

herkman

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You can order the electric brake harness from your Holden dealer, price around $40.

Proceedure is as follows.

Remove back seat base.

Remove drivers side back rest.

Remove trims on lower rail on drivers side.

Remove all boot trims.

This part takes about 10 minutes.

Now plug the two pin plug into the original harness, on the drivers side of the boot. Is up about the half way mark.

The white wire is the earth and is bolted up with another white wire near the boot catch.

You will also see that there is a fuse holder, in the black wire, we ditched this and used a 30 amp auto reset circuit breaker, which meet the Tekonsha requirement. If you use the Holden one, every time you blow a fuse, you will have no brakes, and will need to remove the cross trim.

THERE IS NO FUSE in the Holden fuse holder, so ensure you fit one.

Note at this stage we have only routed the black lead (power supply) towards the battery, but not yet connected.

Following the existing harness, take the harness thru the rear seat wall, and along the r/h side sill (it will slide thru) when you get level with the front alignment of the drivers seat, take it under the carpet and over to the transmission tunnel.

NOTE there is only enough harness, to put the brake control, almost up to dash, and we mounted ours almost in line with the dash, on the side of the tunnel.

We cut a very small slit in the carpet, under the transmission tunnel cover, and brought all the way under the tunnel. We ditched the Holden supplied plug, being in the country, could not find the other half to put on the controller.

Now go back to the boot, and connect the black wire to the battery, note that Tekonsha require the unit to have power to it at all times.

Put all the trims back and you are finished.

Note that all the wires are using Tekonsha colours, so there is no miss match. Also note that it appears as if the signal to energise the brakes, comes from the stop lights and not the switch, your actions when you plug the harness in stage one, does that.

Now the only thing I have not yet checked, does the trailer plug harness, that comes with the towbar, have the signal lead in position five. However I have to change the trailer plug as the holden one supplied does not match the Hella 4902, which we had used on the caravan and trailer before.

Hope this helps as Holden claim there are no instructions, real easy after the first time.

Regards

Col
 

Gavarni

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Hi Col, I am about to fit a electric brake to my 2006 SV6, the description you gave was very good, does this brake harness you describe fit all brands of electric brake controlers, I have a AccuTrac controler, that i fitted to my VX few yrs ago, so will this controler fit this harness, I expect may have to change the plugs ???

Also how does the back seat come out ???

Thanks

Gav
 

andyman

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hmmm, so thats the factory kit, ive wired 2 in ve's and done it easier than that i reckon
 

AttaBoy

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My dad wants one, pretty damn cheap....
 

EraserHead

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VE Electric Trailer Brakes

Great write-up Col. I just ordered a harness today from Holden - Part number 92192052 @ $52.00 inc GST and ex Holden 24hr turn around. Figured this was a much neater and more 'factory' way of doing this rather than butchering and running cables everywhere, and at the price, a bargain. Planning to hook it up to a Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller.

Tried to get a 4 way connector from Holden to match the harness and connct up to the brake controller - they looked at my like I was some sort of a d1ckhead... not available apparently. Anyway, found the correct connector at Jaycar Electronics - CAT. NO. PP2066 - Automotive 4-Way Plug/Socket - 250 Series - $3.95.

All up, the install took me around 3 hours (being an old tart and all...) but it is perfect. I did not bring the cable up to the console as the GM diagram shows, but instead ran it all the way up the drivers side, plugged in my Tekonsha harness, ran the cable behind the kickpanel to just to the right of the steering column. The brake controller is held on with heavy duty velcro so I can easliy remove it and dont have to drill holes. I only use the brake controller rarely, so did not want to butcher in brackets.

It works like a champ!
 
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FPP

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VE Electric brake install

thanks for the great info.
I was able to install a Tekonsha P2 contoller quite easily following the instructions.
got it all connected and working a bout 3 weeks before we were going away for the October long weekend
The night before plugged in the van to check the lights (had a feeling maybe the lights would have a problem)
Lights all worked no problem.
Got up the next morning hooked up ready to go, checked the lights all working but not the brake lights.
Unplugged the van checked the stoplight pin it had power when the brake pedal was pushed.
Ok then checked the stop lights on the van with a meter had a circuit, used the battery in the van with some test leads to test the lights.
Yep they worked.
Plugged in the van not working.
This time i left the car running and checked the trailer plug, no power on the stop light pin.
By now getting sh1ts.
turned of the car unplugged the brake controller to check if i was getting the brake signal to the controller started the car and all good.
Left the controller unplugged and plugged in the van the stop lights were working.
Even more confused.
Plugged in the brake controller not working.
brake lights on the van are a truck type where the reversing lens is replace with red to give 2 extra brake lights.
so for some reason i thought the load might be to high for the trailer plug module so i removed 2 of the stop globes leaving just 2 working.
Checked the lights again all working fine, left for the weekend checked the lights every time we stopped for a break all good.
From what i can workout there must be a limit to the power the trailer module can supply to the brake light circuit and the small amout required for the signakl to the brake controller was just taking it over the limit.

Does anyone know what the rating is for the brake light circuit.

Fred
 

EraserHead

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Hmmm interesting experience Fred. Not sure what the current limit is for the VE stop light circuit, but I'll check out my current draw later this month, but mine is a P3 so may be different. Worst case would be to swap to LED lights if its a problem.
 

FPP

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thanks, interested to here if you find what the limit might be.
Looking for some LED replacement Feeston globes rather than replace the complete lights.
 
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