Fitting LS1 harmonic balancer

[accentstencil]

Since there is no key way I assume it doesn't matter which way the balancer goes on the crank, is that correct?
Does anyone have any innovative ways of stopping the motor from turning when torquing the bolt, I managed to get the bolt undone without using any thing.
I am aware of the ring gear locking tool but removing the starter motor is about as big a job as the harmonic balancer, so I'd rather not go that route.

 

[shane_3800]

You need to lock the crank at the fly wheel.

 

[lout]

rattle gun with torque stick extension

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[accentstencil]

rattle gun with torque stick extension

http://[URL]https://www.ebay.com.au...tension-Bar-Set-Torque-Limiting-/140496807198

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I was considering that, I have a rattle gun and big compressor but will I be able to get the bolt tight enough? I couldn't get the old bolt undone with it.
The manual says 50Nm and then 140 degrees. Not sure what that would amount to in Nm.

 

[lout]

maybe not
if you use your rattle gun at maximum
you may then be able to lock the balancer from turning to torque it

 

[lout]

thinking right outside the box
what if you were to remove spark plug 1
rotate engine to bdc on inlet stroke
fill cylinder with oil and refit plug
deliberately create a hydraulic lock situation
once tensioned remove plug
place some rags under plug hole and rotate to tdc
clean and refit plug
havent had my morning coffee
so i may be off my rocker

 

[accentstencil]

thinking right outside the box
what if you were to remove spark plug 1
rotate engine to bdc on inlet stroke
fill cylinder with oil and refit plug
deliberately create a hydraulic lock situation
once tensioned remove plug
place some rags under plug hole and rotate to tdc
clean and refit plug
havent had my morning coffee
so i may be off my rocker

Sounds like it could work. I have another idea which is a bit hard to explain, if I use it I'll take pics.
Still have a while to think about it, waiting for parts.
Adding water pump to the list, now that I have removed a lot of part I noticed it's leaking behind the pulley. I replaced that 37,000 km ago with a GMB, I would have expected more from it.

 

[accentstencil]

So this is what I came up with, crude but effective.

These are the parts I needed, scrap timber, socket extension bar and an F clamp. Any suitable bar would do but all I could find was the socket extension bar.

The thin piece of wood with a cut out for the extension bar sits straight up against the balancer, the extension bar pokes into the balancer to stop one of the three spokes from turning and the other thicker piece of wood clamps to the support where the fans and radiator sit. It needs to be clamped to stop the bar from lifting from the downward force of the spoke.
The piece of timber near the balancer needs to be thin to fit in the space available, around 20mm thick.

Like I said , crude but effective. You could set it up on the left side of the balancer to undo the bolt.

The secret is to make the timber the right length so that the spoke has downward force on the bar and not sideways force, So the spoke needs to be around the 2 o'clock position. The bar should remain level between both pieces of timber.

People with an ecotec are probably thinking, why not remove the starter motor and stop the motor turning there? It is a major operation to remove the starter motor on an LS1. Took about 10-15 minutes to make what I needed once I had an idea in my head.

 

[shane_3800]

What I do is torque it to 60 then mark the degrees with a paint pen then get the 3/4 rattle gun and hammer untill my paint marks meet

 

[accentstencil]

What I do is torque it to 60 then mark the degrees with a paint pen then get the 3/4 rattle gun and hammer untill my paint marks meet

Unfortunately my rattle gun was doing stuff all.