so apparently one of my rear calipers is seized, so i picked up a new pair of pbr rears, and i'm going to have a crack at installing them myself. new pads needed too but the rotors are fine. anyway, the gregorys has instructions for renewing calipers, but i'm not sure if it applies to new calipers, or just renewing seals etc. on brand new calipers, do i need to take out the piston and rub brake fluid on the rubber etc? also in a thread i read somethign about it being good to renew copper washers at this time, but the new calipers didn't come with them just the calipers and two rubber nipples that i think are dust caps (auction said original mounting brackets and slides must be used)
fitting new calipers,advice needed about the copper washers, you dont have to get new ones. you can heat the washers over a gas flame, example , gas stove ,bbq, till the washer is glowing a bright red color , then quickly dunk into cool water. doing that softens or anneals the copper. every time you tension a copper washer with spanner or socket ,the pressure hardens the copper . this works, as some of you fitters or engineers out there can confirm. i have done this a lot on copper sump plug washers and on my front brake hose washers when i upgraded to the finned calipers on my vp. and if you are fitting new calipers the pistons and the seals would be already lubed with brake grease. all the best 2 ya.
i used a butane soldering iron, but changed to head to a blowtorch head that came with it, i couldn't get them red, only a bright orange, the part the flame was focused on went brighter, so i tried to rotate it so it'd all heat evenly. when they cooled in the water they dropped all these black flakes in it (maybe carbon from the flame), and afterwards the washers had dark spots. is this what they're meant to come out like?
A for effort Got no idea on anealling results but I can say new copper washers will set you back a couple of bucks Up to you
yeah, it was more a 'no-one could tell me which i needed' thing than a money saving effort. but any excuse to play with fire
Uhhh yeah - thats keen. Anyhoo that is what they will look like after you anneal them. Give them a good going over with a scotchbright or similar to get the carbon off. Reaper
umm guy heating then rapid cooling is how you HARDEN things. To anneal you heat then cool very slowly. Just by new ones. No need to lube the pistons it will have been done allready. Loctite the bolts is allways a good idea.
