holomatrix
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2009
- Messages
- 139
- Reaction score
- 27
- Points
- 28
- Members Ride
- VF Redline Sportwagon
The fact is that in law if you purchased the product from a particular branded dealer, it is that brand that must warranty the product. When an issue is found with the build process that requires rectification, that local brand who sold you the product carry the liability in Australia to perform the rectification (whether a safety recall like the odd seatbelt thing in the back seats, or a secondary system like the stereo). Everything that was on the product when you purchased it must be functional and operate in the intended manner... so in my case, when the stereo system is lose and this is causing it to rattle (and in my case, spontaneously reboot), it is therefore not working to specification. NZ's law is a little less grey again and says that if anything is fitted to a vehicle that thing must function, so when doing a greenslip check (WoF they call it) if the guy finds a switch on the dash for your rear foglight (the extra fog light on the rear that euro cars must have) then even though we don't use it, that switch and fog light MUST function because it is there. (and before you ask... while my first degree was in ComSci and ElecEng... my followup degree and Masters are in Law - health and consumer law. Hence why I never got around to using my ElecEng quals in my working life. And while I could have jumped up and down and used my knowledge of consumer law to totally mess up some idiot service manager's day, in the end downloading the bulletin and fixing it myself caused me less angst. Most of those guys have so little intelligence that you just end up arguing with yourself. At the next service they will simply go back to wiping over your engine bay with an oily rag and parking your car out the back without doing anything and charge you $400, so why bother.)
The fact that Holden (and Buick) weighed in and decided that the rattle in the dash was something that should be rectified simply lends support to the fact that the dealer that I got the car through (and who were given the opportunity TWICE to rectify) should have been able to do what I did... download the bulletin, follow the instructions and make the customer happy by mitigating the fault. I shouldn't have had to end up with even more faults from a poor attempt at rectification (as someone suggested, by the dodgy apprentice) and I shouldn't have had to fix it myself. All that IS down to Holden and their dealer.
For anyone who is interested I will pop the plastic off where the headlight switches are, take out the number 7 bolt that holds the cover on the particular offending box and take a pic or two. The issue causing the rattle AND the stereo reboots was definitely that the circuit boards in that box are only supported at the very bottom by the two torx screws. Otherwise, they sit in that box totally unsupported, which means they basically wave in the breeze as you hit potholes or bumps, and they sway when you turn corners. I used to find that the stereo was more likely to reboot when I made a hard right turn (a U turn for example was almost guaranteed to result in the screen going out and then a rattle for the next few kms)
The fact that Holden (and Buick) weighed in and decided that the rattle in the dash was something that should be rectified simply lends support to the fact that the dealer that I got the car through (and who were given the opportunity TWICE to rectify) should have been able to do what I did... download the bulletin, follow the instructions and make the customer happy by mitigating the fault. I shouldn't have had to end up with even more faults from a poor attempt at rectification (as someone suggested, by the dodgy apprentice) and I shouldn't have had to fix it myself. All that IS down to Holden and their dealer.
For anyone who is interested I will pop the plastic off where the headlight switches are, take out the number 7 bolt that holds the cover on the particular offending box and take a pic or two. The issue causing the rattle AND the stereo reboots was definitely that the circuit boards in that box are only supported at the very bottom by the two torx screws. Otherwise, they sit in that box totally unsupported, which means they basically wave in the breeze as you hit potholes or bumps, and they sway when you turn corners. I used to find that the stereo was more likely to reboot when I made a hard right turn (a U turn for example was almost guaranteed to result in the screen going out and then a rattle for the next few kms)
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