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Forward only in every gear

Shorsfall

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The only other thing to check is to make sure that the shifter is working correctly and the transmission gear selector is going fully into the detent. It may be possible that the cable/linkage has moved. Unfortunately I'm not familiar with these transmissions so it's all I can think off.
Selector is definitely working ok. I have a B&M Pro ratchet shifter so I made sure it was tensioned properly and even disconnected it and shifted the shift lever on the auto by hand and still no go
 

Shorsfall

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Yip only thing if you want to is remove the pan again and test the shift solenoids with a multi meter, check the selector arm and wiring system inside the pan, could be that the valve body not shifting or stuffed torque converter or bad ecu, they say when reverse stops working means the torque converter is broken hence your getting movement in neutral, fingers crossed for u..
Ok will give that a try. Considering I have a hi stall as well, is the torque converter combined with the hi stall and is that the part between the auto and the engine inside the bell housing. Excuse my ignorance as I do watch a lot of build shows and have seen the hi stall converters being installed but wasn’t sure if that is what a stock torque converter looks like as well
 

vc commodore

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With no reverse, to me it sounds like reverse inside the box is knackered...Honestly, it'd be best having a trans person take a sticky
 

Trevor loves holden.

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Low fluid = slippage....Do a you tube search with that
Don't need to thanks though, maybe you should lack of fluid = no pressure in the valve body to in gouge the clutch pack, no flow no gear change, he describes the car creeping forward in every gear tells me the torque converter spline ring has broken away, if it was only doing it one gear then it be a solenoid or sticky valve or bad clutch pack, but this case sounds torque converter symptoms .
 

Shorsfall

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Don't need to thanks though, maybe you should lack of fluid = no pressure in the valve body to in gouge the clutch pack, no flow no gear change, he describes the car creeping forward in every gear tells me the torque converter spline ring has broken away, if it was only doing it one gear then it be a solenoid or sticky valve or bad clutch pack, but this case sounds torque converter symptoms .
Thanks after reading and watching YouTube videos it’s looking more like that could be the case. My torque converter has a hi stall as well so might give the company who built it to get a quote.
 

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Thanks after reading and watching YouTube videos it’s looking more like that could be the case. My torque converter has a hi stall as well so might give the company who built it to get a quote.
Have a read of this, high torque just means the trans will lock up for longer for faster take off, it in gauges first and reverse so maybe its your clutch packs have burnt out, was there much crap in the pan when you serviced it..

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...78/prd78.htm&usg=AOvVaw2vUiS3px51Njnx-VvuwDTr
 

Shorsfall

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Have a read of this, high torque just means the trans will lock up for longer for faster take off, it in gauges first and reverse so maybe its your clutch packs have burnt out, was there much crap in the pan when you serviced it..

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=14&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwi36ZHKhOTmAhVQ4XMBHeW0BIQQFjANegQICxAS&url=http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=78/prd78.htm&usg=AOvVaw2vUiS3px51Njnx-VvuwDTr
There was the average amount of fine metal particles on the magnet. No more than I have seen on any other car I’ve serviced. Everything I’m reading and the symptoms is pointing towards the torque converter. The car would drive at speed. It will on go walking pace. You can rev the engine all the way to redline and it appears to have no effect on the transmission at all.
 

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No idea on your problem but yes the converter is what they change to make it a stall converter and it is inside the bell housing. Who remanufactued the converter into a stally.? I had mine done and its fine over 6 months on. Think i have around 3300 - 3500 stall, which i was told is pretty much as low as you go if building a stally. Anything less and it's not really worth it and might as well go standard.

Edit I'd have to check my stall i might be out by 1000, it could be 1000 lower. I just went with a fairly low one as i only have a V6. I admit i get confused. Either way, it was around 1200 - 1300 above stock and that was the minimum stall to make it worthwhile.
 
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Shorsfall

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No idea on your problem but yes the converter is what they change to make it a stall converter and it is inside the bell housing. Who remanufactued the converter into a stally.? I had mine done and its fine over 6 months on. Think i have around 3300 - 3500 stall, which i was told is pretty much as low as you go if building a stally. Anything less and it's not really worth it and might as well go standard.
I’m the third owner of the car since it was built. It’s had a pretty hard life on the drive train due to being built as a drag comp car. It’s got 400HP at the wheels. 4.11 diff ratio with a mini spool. The RB30ET has been built tough. Not sure who built it originally but have been recommended Keas as the guys to go to.
 
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