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Front Door Alignment........

vs-lover

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Hi All,


I'm having a bit of a dilemma with a door change we've just done.

My sons car from the day we bought it many years ago has a bad dose of the body cancer in the typical spot of the lower left inside the Front door location.

I found a fairly good VS Acclaim at UPI that's recently come in and it was in Heather Frost and the left hand door was in perfect shape rust wise and also panel straightness. As my son is going to eventually get the car painted so he wanted another door with the same colour so it will only require a closed door spray job. This will cut out much work with the inside being the same as the car itself, also the donor car was only made about 2 weeks prior to the lads car.

We changed over all componentry as his door was electric while the donor was a manual winder unit and his windows have recently been tinted, thus keeping the original glass.

Now if you look at the photos and disregard the protector strip location which is clearly wrong on the donor door, I can't for the life of me figure out why the door is rather evenly about 2mm lower (front & rear edges) than it's predecessor. this is clearly evident with the style line down the middle of the door above the protector strip and also if you look at the gap between the door and the lower sill underneath. Compare it to the back door and that's how it should be.

Now for the life of me I can't understand how this is even possible as there is no adjustment on the hinges and the only factor is the hinge pins of which we used the original pins from the car / original door which fitted perfectly. I understand that a sagging door at the rear edge is from worn pins but this door sits evenly lower and that bugs me to tears.

BTW this is not the vehicle that I previously did all the work on due to the stuck lifter, that's the younger sons car with the same Heather Frost but is an Executive.

Any opinions or suggestions most welcome.

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losh1971

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Is there any movement in the hinges? If yes grab a pair from Holden. If no movement then the door simply needs lifting. A few yanks upwards from the back of the door should take care of it. It won't take much so don't lift it too hard.
 

vc commodore

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How is the door striker? Perhaps give that a bit of a tweek

My VY is the same...The door is down compared to the style lines....I can see when looking at the door striker, it has shifted....Been a little too busy to make the necessary adjustment, but worth a try
 

Dayvo

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These hinges are a pain to adjust. In production the rear doors are fitted first then the front then the guards. The hinges are adjustable back and forth using a u shaped tool that fits under the hinge attached to a metre long extension to bend the hinge. The front guards have shims between the guard and body to line up the style lines, washers can be substituted for shims.
 

ephect

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Not ideal, but could you place a washer in the hinge to lift the door to match?

It's completely even and straight so that's a good start
 

losh1971

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H
Not ideal, but could you place a washer in the hinge to lift the door to match?

It's completely even and straight so that's a good start
How is that possible? The hinges are welded and there is no room in the pivot point to fit a washer.
 

losh1971

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I fixed mine with new hinge pins. Then to line it up the last bit I lifted the rear of the door. They sag after a while and they just take a quick lift at the back of the door to lift the sag. Some people use a jack but its not needed.
 

wildfiremaint

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Take off the strip on the front door
and reglue higher up to align with the one on the rear door.
The door alignment is probably
the best you will get with non adjustable hinges.
After all its not a Rolls Royce. :)
 
Last edited:

DavesSV6Tonner

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I fixed mine with new hinge pins. Then to line it up the last bit I lifted the rear of the door. They sag after a while and they just take a quick lift at the back of the door to lift the sag. Some people use a jack but its not needed.
Agree, fit new hinge pins and pull the rear of the door up to match up the body lines with the rear door.
A good idea too is mark around the striker position on the B pillar and remove the striker to ensure the striker is not pulling the door down before doing anything else.
Refit and adjust the striker if and as required.
 
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