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front right tyre scrubbing

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Skylarking

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Skylarking

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... Most workshops won't be able to easily identify the problem.
Jokes aside, all modern equipment can determine most secondary alignment measurements. Stuff like SAI, IA, toe out on turns, thrust angle, setbacks and such...

Most operators are time pressured so don’t bother with secondary angles (bosses want turnover rather then quality) or the operators are poorly trained in their job (bosses want cheap labour) or in some cases the manufacture doesn’t specify all angles/measurements other than the basic stuff like caster chamber and toe.

You could read up on wheel alignment principles and learn a little yourself so you can better communicate with the guys actually doing the work (you may be surprised at both the level of knowledge and the lack of knowledge). Google is helpful.

But I’d start by carefully looking at the vehicle body to wheel relationships at each corner and measuring a few things. An easy measurement front wheel to rear wheel on both sides, many cars i5 is supposed to be the same but some cars are designed to be different. I’ve seen cars with left front wheels shoved back 50mm when it shouldn’t have been and the wheel aligner had a CBF attitude. The wheels on a given axle must be the same distance from the vehicle center line yet I’ve seen cars with the rear axle shoved 50mm sideways (to the right) and wheel alignment place didn’t seems to care. Such things may not be an issue when driving straight but will cause tyre wear when turning.

I’d be looking at a specialist wheel alignment place that works with/for insurance companies when some client has had a problem repair. Your insurance company may be able to advise who they use for specialist post crash vehicle alignment checks/reports/corrective actions when their clients have problems.
 

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Trevor loves holden.

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Just replace the arm and see how it goes they not that expensive, I replaced mine with new ones with the rubber bushers pressed in for around 80, its not a hard job to do, if your bushers are old and are rubber then most likely they need replacing anyway even the front radius bush could be torn making the wheel move back on braking I used those red ones as the rubber ones I replaced 12 mounts prior tore again.
 

vc commodore

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Firstly, check the bushes in the right hand side lower control arm for signs of movement.

2ndly, would you happen to have a copy of a previous alignment report? It might be something as simple a little too much positive camber, for how you drive the car.

Finally, does the car drift either way, especially when new tyres have been fitted? Generally if the control arm is bent, or even a slight kink in the chassis, as a result of an accident, the car will drift...
 

vc commodore

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Just the way it is with commodores on full lock, It could be many reasons for it, lowered springs, worn struts or strut support mount, worn lower control arm bush, most vr are known for little scrubbing..


What a load of it Trevor....Commodores with full lock....Unless Losh is constantly full locking to the left and very little to the right, there is no way this is the cause.

The only reason cars scrub tyres, is due to either wrong settings with the alignment, for how the driver drives the car, or worn/bent components
 

losh1971

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The bushes in the arms are pretty new. TBH I am leaning towards a worn rack end or tierod end. I am wondering if this is why the alignment is always out a little each time they do one. I have had garages before not being able to identify partially worn components. I think ultimately think the TRE needs unbolting and both the TR end and rack end checked for slop.
 

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I’d be looking at a specialist wheel alignment place that works with/for insurance companies when some client has had a problem repair. Your insurance company may be able to advise who they use for specialist post crash vehicle alignment checks/reports/corrective actions when their clients have problems.


Alot of crash places, only want a quick alignment done and if a problem is shown up as a result of an accident, they don't give a toss.....They have made there million dollars from repairing a car and the tyre wear issues, or how it drives afterwards ain't their problem.

I personally have had dealings with a multitude of crash repairers....I have pointed out issues with the car and mentioned it'd be a result of the accident....Response is basically, the job is finished and they'll cross that bridge if and when they come to it. I actually suspect they pass the buck onto the place that does the alignment, but can't confirm it.
 

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The bushes in the arms are pretty new. TBH I am leaning towards a worn rack end or tierod end. I am wondering if this is why the alignment is always out a little each time they do one. I have had garages before not being able to identify partially worn components. I think ultimately think the TRE needs unbolting and both the TR end and rack end checked for slop.


No need to undo TRE to check for rackend or TRE movement....Just have the wheel off the ground and whilst grabbing the wheel at the 3 and 9 O'clock positions, give it a jerk...If there is movement, you should feel it....
 
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