front right tyre scrubbing

[Skylarking]

Alot of crash places, only want a quick alignment done and if a problem is shown up as a result of an accident, they don't give a toss.....They have made there million dollars from repairing a car and the tyre wear issues, or how it drives afterwards ain't their problem.

I personally have had dealings with a multitude of crash repairers....I have pointed out issues with the car and mentioned it'd be a result of the accident....Response is basically, the job is finished and they'll cross that bridge if and when they come to it. I actually suspect they pass the buck onto the place that does the alignment, but can't confirm it.

As you know, not all wheel alignments places do the same high quality work and likewise some crash repairers are rather poor in their field. But a poor crash repair is their problem, especially if an insurance company pays them.

After all, insurance companies guarantee their repair for life. As such it must drive and behave as it did before the crash. Any instability, drifting, pulling or abnormal tyre wear are an issue if they occur post repair and the insurance company must ensure they are fixed... So they must have a list of good repairers they send the difficult jobs to

So what i was suggesting was to get some info from an insurance company as to who they use when they have complex drivability or tyre wear issues post crash repair. That way @losh1971 may be able to find a better than poor alignment place, heck maybe a great alignment palce, and find out exactly whats wrong and how best to fix it if such a quality businesses even exist in Tassie

 

[losh1971]

No need to undo TRE to check for rackend or TRE movement....Just have the wheel off the ground and whilst grabbing the wheel at the 3 and 9 O'clock positions, give it a jerk...If there is movement, you should feel it....

This should have been done just before I went to SA. I had it booked in a few days before I left and had it checked out.

 

[Vin999]

As you know, not all wheel alignments places do the same high quality work and likewise some crash repairers are rather poor in their field. But a poor crash repair is their problem, especially if an insurance company pays them.

After all, insurance companies guarantee their repair for life. As such it must drive and behave as it did before the crash. Any instability, drifting, pulling or abnormal tyre wear are an issue if they occur post repair and the insurance company must ensure they are fixed... So they must have a list of good repairers they send the difficult jobs to

So what i was suggesting was to get some info from an insurance company as to who they use when they have complex drivability or tyre wear issues post crash repair. That way @losh1971 may be able to find a better than poor alignment place, heck maybe a great alignment palce, and find out exactly whats wrong and how best to fix it if such a quality businesses even exist in Tassie

Sure there are many bad as good places, we are the guinea pigs in finding out.
Also most good ones that do wheel alignment do all the suspension/steering mechanical work. The place I go to don't charge for an alignment if issues arise, or charge/do alignment to get you on your way and then do free wheel alignment later when the suspension/steering problem is fixed on next booking.

 

[Vin999]

What a load of it Trevor....Commodores with full lock....Unless Losh is constantly full locking to the left and very little to the right, there is no way this is the cause.

The only reason cars scrub tyres, is due to either wrong settings with the alignment, for how the driver drives the car, or worn/bent components

U forgot front/rear/4wd wheel drive under/oversteer, steering condition, speed, wheel/tyre size, tyre brand/compound, defected tyre manufacture, tyre pressures, lowered springs, kframe spacers/heights, chassis alterations/repairs, road surfaces condition/type, road camber, wrong bushes/parts used, incorrectly adjusted/adjustable suspension parts and load/weight, a 150kg gorilla driver or passenger and towing/angles.

Not much really for a old car.

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

The bushes in the arms are pretty new. TBH I am leaning towards a worn rack end or tierod end. I am wondering if this is why the alignment is always out a little each time they do one. I have had garages before not being able to identify partially worn components. I think ultimately think the TRE needs unbolting and both the TR end and rack end checked for slop.

Well you do say you road is corrugated so it must be the reason why you have continue issues, according to u the other side was scrubbing and was put on the back, so was that fixed with the new tre or is it still doing it, and to the 3 post why in hell are you using crow bars and trying to bash the ball joint out from the top bolt just whack the side casing to jar it out I use 2 smash hammers one on the other side against the casing then hit the other side casting to jolt it out works 100% every time.
Also ask this mechanic when they last have there machine calibrated maybe that's why its always incorrect.

 

[losh1971]

The other side is fine Trevor and shows no signs of wear. The rear right is worn as it was rotated and had wear when it was rotated. Father in law has used the bar and BFH many times and it works. You lean on the bar and hit the knuckle on the side of the TRE and it theory it pops right out. Anyway you saying this and that works every time, you weren't there belting the knuckle for 10mins and no luck. So don't tell me how it always works. The TRE was seized. It took a big few hard wacks on the nut before it popped. Getting the left side of is irrelevant anyway because that side has no issues front or back. If i decide to pull the right TRE I may invest in the correct tool. Or I may buy a new part and hit the nut again because the father in law can't help this time and i will be on my own.

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

Do it the pommy way just trying to help, all that bs u did didn't work, hitting the knuckle is not correct you hit the side of the casing it seats in like I said to dislodge it from its tapper, hitting the knuckle and crow bars is a good way of bending and breaking or cracking the housing in the casting. Every man to them selves.

 

[vc commodore]

This should have been done just before I went to SA. I had it booked in a few days before I left and had it checked out.

It is possible they weren't.....Just making the suggestion on how you could do it yourself, just for your own peace of mind.

Would you happen to know your last alignment settings? This might help me determine a possible setting issue causing the wear you are experiencing

 

[losh1971]

I think i posted them but can't remember where. Thanks for the suggestion to wiggle the wheel. I'm gonna go back and get some advice on it. Failing that i will knock out the end and have a good feel. I am also considering having the left rear stripped and fitted on the front right and vise versa. I want to do that before it gets bad.

 

[vc commodore]

Do it the pommy way just trying to help, all that bs u did didn't work, hitting the knuckle is not correct you hit the side of the casing it seats in like I said to dislodge it from its tapper, hitting the knuckle and crow bars is a good way of bending and breaking or cracking the housing in the casting. Every man to them selves.

Hitting the thread on a TRE or balljoint will only stuff the thread, or stuff the part you're trying to remove....How you come up with the theory of cracking housings is beyond me