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Fuel tank leaking fuel

Fu Manchu

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I'm going to suggest a pin hole in the fuel line or damaged o-ring in the fuel line connector. Holds true when not under pressure but as soon as it's operating, the leak is happening. But to inspect it operating, it's got to be installed and therefore not seen, so the inspection hole is the best bet so you can get eye balls on it and finally see what is happening.

If you believe it to be getting squashed, a borescope up in the top would confirm it. I don't see how it could be getting squashed. It's not going to be going in any different to when it was made, unless it is pressurising, to which the EVAP canister might be rooted or the purge no good, or the new fuel cap faulty, but its clearly happening around the pump and not elsewhere. If it was bulging, it would happen elsewhere on the tank I'd think.
 

Jono.Mc.

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We have gone through 3 fuel lines while one of them being brand new, 2 cannisters (both had unrestricted flow) but there was still fuel on top of the tank. I don't have access to a borescope unfortunately. Evap solenoid was changed for genuine new then went through the process of a tech computer to make sure it was happy. All fuel pressures are spot on and still no codes.

The fuel cap seems new, probably could replace it cause at this point its "what the heck well give it a try". Just had a stupid thought, I haven't checked the breather line from the tank to the filler neck. If its blocked, would this cause the leak?
 
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Fu Manchu

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We have gone through 3 fuel lines while one of them being brand new, 2 cannisters (both had unrestricted flow) but there was still fuel on top of the tank. I don't have access to a borescope unfortunately. Evap solenoid was changed for genuine new then went through the process of a tech computer to make sure it was happy. All fuel pressures are spot on and still no codes.

The fuel cap seems new, probably could replace it cause at this point its "what the heck well give it a try". Just had a stupid thought, I haven't checked the breather line from the tank to the filler neck. If its blocked, would this cause the leak?
Not only if it’s blocked, but if it’s damaged and leaking then yes.

However that is quite a stretch. What should be done e is to visually confirm the location of the leak with the car running so the system is pressurised.
 

Jono.Mc.

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Didn't realize this photo was taken first time the tank was removed from the car and here is why I'm suspecting the floor of the (rearended) car. Bear in mind we did push the floor up about 4mm and still leaks.
20241102_201638a.jpg
 

Fu Manchu

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If that has been pressed against the body like that, there could easily be tiny pinhole fractures or tiny crack that only opens up under pressure. Or those components pushed down onto the fuel pump housing and creating the leak then. Remove the tank and the housing is no longer compromising the o-ring seal and no leak occurs?

Now for there to be that touching, either the body has been bent down or the rear subframe is slightly bent upward enough to create that contact.

A rubber mallet to the body under the rear seat might solve the clearance problem or plan to replace the rear subframe.
 

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We (my eldest son who is the panel beater and I) cut a piece of hard wood and using a jack we slowly eased the floor up until it rested 4mm higher but just at the pump location so that it can easily be reversed by popping it back. This was before the second tank was tried.
The only thing we can go off about the car being bent/twisted is he got the local tire place "Reekie's tires" to do a full alignment, balance and rotation. They said given what was done to the car they were amazed that everything was "true to 0" (there wording) and only needed a slight tweak on the steering.

My brother sent me a text saying to get conveyor belt rubber from his work and glue it to the tank at the points where it rests and add a 5mm washer to each strap bolt. That may be next.
 

vc commodore

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If that has been pressed against the body like that, there could easily be tiny pinhole fractures or tiny crack that only opens up under pressure. Or those components pushed down onto the fuel pump housing and creating the leak then. Remove the tank and the housing is no longer compromising the o-ring seal and no leak occurs?

Now for there to be that touching, either the body has been bent down or the rear subframe is slightly bent upward enough to create that contact.

A rubber mallet to the body under the rear seat might solve the clearance problem or plan to replace the rear subframe.
Do you think a smoke test would find this leak?
 

Fu Manchu

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Do you think a smoke test would find this leak?
No more than fuel coming out in this circumstance.

The mystery will only be solved once the tank is in but it can be observed working as well.
 

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A little update.
Yesterday I cut and installed the fuel pump cover inside the car. Here are a couple of photos.

1.jpg

This is the floor of the series 2 2012. Compared to our 2006 floor is a little different, being the raised strengthening ribs and area near the seat belt mounting point. Also, the floor has a crease. Our 2006 Calais is basically flat in that area.
Note the small area that looks like something is eating the paint (the floor there sits lower than my other son's series 2 car).

2.jpg

The placement of the ring sits in only one spot so you can't go wrong here and with the series 1 floor sits just the same just better against the floor contour.

3.jpg

Traced the inside of the ring. Couple of pilot holes here and cut it out with tin snips. Easy as that. Don't have a nibbler on me.

5.jpg

Cut out and needs a little file on the edges. Its hard to see but there is a dam of fuel all around the pump. Cleaned everything up, got rid of the fuel and dried everything.
7a.jpg

I took note of the position of the lines underneath so that any of the self-tapper screws would not be near them. Tested the rubber around the hole and it's a perfect fit. I also flatten the raised edges, lifted the lowered floor.

8.jpg

Inserted the given self-tapping screws. Applied fuel resistant sealant as well cause that wonky floor bothers me. Cleaned up and the finish looks like this,

9.jpg


While the hole was cut and the ring fixed, I removed the pump and inserted a new seal and pulled in the fingers to clamp down a little bit more against the seal. Checked the hose from on top of the sender and the plug to make sure there were no burnt wires.

So, on Sunday I will remove the cover and check around the tank to try and catch where it is starting to leak.
Beats removing the tank to get to the pump.

Can't remember if I mentioned this yet but i spoke to a VASS engineer and in a nutshell said it's not worth an engineering certificate as long as the cover is sealed, secured and stronger than the metal of the floor. Plus, its hidden under the seat.

The quality of the kit is second to none and seriously every Ve should have one or two fitted because removing the tank is a big job that didn't have to be.
 
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Fu Manchu

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That does look like the tank is up closer to the tank than most people have when they do inspection covers.
 
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