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Getting this 'advanced cam' yadda right!

Marco-EFIVL

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Yeah but I even doubt it will happen when he says.... I mean, my old man is a bit of a procrastinator, so I might be stuck wit the VL longer that I would like. I've settled for a spending cap of 2k...
 

BigDaz

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go the manual for sure, wakes the old rb30 up pretty good :)
 

bangers

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do the gearbox swap and then you can change your diff ratio cos you have the extra gear so you won't be chewing more fuel on the highway but still have better acceleration.
 

Marco-EFIVL

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Well my old man isn't keen, he wants me to keep it Auto so when I get the R34, the girls can use it as a 'spare' vehicle. Not to be sexist, but the females in my family aren't the most coordinated of people... ;)

Anyways, I do want to stay on topic, can anyone clearly outline the procedure of advancing the cam and provide me with a description outlineing the difference between advancing the cam 'one tooth' and advancing the timing by a certain number of degrees... This bit is confusing me atm... I would REALLY appreciate some clarification..

Lastly, what is the diameter of the stock VL throttle body, I've seen an elarged' one that is 58mm, how much bigger is it than the stock one, cause I dunno...
 

mag

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Marco-EFIVL said:
Well my old man isn't keen, he wants me to keep it Auto so when I get the R34, the girls can use it as a 'spare' vehicle. Not to be sexist, but the females in my family aren't the most coordinated of people... ;)

Anyways, I do want to stay on topic, can anyone clearly outline the procedure of advancing the cam and provide me with a description outlineing the difference between advancing the cam 'one tooth' and advancing the timing by a certain number of degrees... This bit is confusing me atm... I would REALLY appreciate some clarification..

Lastly, what is the diameter of the stock VL throttle body, I've seen an elarged' one that is 58mm, how much bigger is it than the stock one, cause I dunno...

Advancing the cam will shift the basic RPM range downward. Four degrees of advance (from the original position) will cause the power range to start approximately 200 RPM sooner. Retarding it this same amount will move the power upward approximately 200 RPM. This can be helpful for tuning the power range to match your situation. If the correct cam has been selected for a particular application, installing it in the normal "straight up" position (per the opening and closing events at .050" lifter rise on the spec card) is the best starting point.:thumbsup:
 

mag

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Marco-EFIVL said:
Is moving the cam by a 'set' number of degrees the same thing as setting it at a certain 'tooth'?

Not really because it'll be unknown how much or how little the cam is advanced or retarded..
You need a degree wheel and a dial indicator to measure whats going on...:thumbsup:
And I've added a pic of an adjustable cam gear, u should have a better idea how it's made adjustable..;)
 

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mag

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Marco-EFIVL said:
Is moving the cam by a 'set' number of degrees the same thing as setting it at a certain 'tooth'?

A cam ground with say 110-degree lobe separation will read an installed centerline angle of 110 if installed “straight-up,” or with no advance. Since the cam is connected to the crank via the timing belt, the cam’s phasing to the crank, can be adjusted forward or back, changing the installed centerline angle. This is called advancing or retarding the cam. The installed centerline is what is checked when a camshaft is degreed in. Most aftermarket cams are ground with some advance built in, typically about 4 degrees. Advancing the cam makes all the valve events happen earlier, and generally favors low rpm operation, helping idle quality, cylinder pressure, vacuum, and lower speed torque. Retarding the cam deteriorates these characteristics, though in some cases high rpm power may be enhanced. The real score here is that advance will almost always help improve performance as listed above, but most of the time retarding the cam will gain little if anything, even up top.:thumbsup:
 

Marco-EFIVL

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Cheers bud, I got it now. Camshaft 'degree' is the angle in which the cam itself is set upon installation (well, in working configuration) in the head, whereas the 'tooth' is to do with the configuration of the cam gears, so they are related but different... If that makes sense..


This should be pinned up top, so that people can all know the clear answer to this question without having to make an arse outta themselves like I have..
 
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