Good duration but low lift camshaft

[harrop.senator]

Hey guys the ls is apart at the moment and I'm wondering just how much I'll benefit from dropping more money on a different camshaft.

It's currently running an isky 220/230 but it only has .530"/.550" of lift.

Unsure if the heads have been shaved haven't cc'ed them but the cold cranking pressure is absolutely where it should be with where the cam was dialled in. 180-182 across all 8 cylinders so the valve intervals are obviously a good fit for the motor.

But the lifts a little lame! I'm unsure on whether I should spend the money on a larger stick and some new springs or if it won't reallyyyyyy be worth it.

I'm wondering about possibly just retarding it 2-4 degrees to push the power band up and sneak a couple more horses.

It went 350atwhp with a bad tune and a maf an airbox. Seeing as I'm having the tune touched up anyway another cam has go me curious.

I've got a 3200-3500 off shelf stall that's not fitted so no idea where shell actually flash it was just a good deal and with the new lock up converter tech I don't mind "over stalled cars" as in my opinion you don't notice until you jam the pedal. It's got a fat torque curve supposedly pulls 2-6 bit really comes alive at 3200.

Trouble is it falls of 6k that's not advertised that's how it drove before pull down and I know I'll sneak some more horses pushing the revs up further.

Long story short without any other mods but supporting springs and tune how much room for improvement do I really have with tri y pacemakers, 100 cell high flows and twin 2.5" exhaust and 3.46 final drive InIa full weight wh caprice. I don't know if dropping a grand for another 30 rwhp is worth my money but for another 50-60 it would be.

 

[EYY]

Wow heavily biased towards exhaust side. Are all Ls cams like that?

Lift is low by ls standards, but I don’t think I’d change it personally unless you’re really wanting max peak power and don’t care about driveability too much. What’s the lsa?

 

[monstar]

350 hp or kw? Mate if the latter is definitely not worth mucking around for compromise to get 500-600 rpm (more top end) unless you are wanting a racecar, which is next question: what do you want the two tonne car to actually go like?
Which engine is it?
I reckon your tuning target should be around 5900 not over 6k. Theoretical redline is 6600 but not without lightweight valvetrain and hardened stuff, which I’ve found doesn’t last forever so, consider if build hits the mark how often / km pa will you drive it?
If you’re thinking about overall financial viability then at the end of the day there’s longevity servicing and fuel consumption. In that regard yes maybe a more efficient cam deliver what you want but likely not much more lift.
View media item 299

 

[harrop.senator]

Yeah looked at piston speed for the factory slugs and 6500 is where I thought was safe also.

I usually ride the bikes to work as it's an hour in traffic to travel 37kms to the shop vs 40 minutes on a motorcycle.

I just want to have a 12 second limo on street 265 35 18's if I'm honest it's the new d1 reg tyre and can get 300 treadwears as cheap as $80ea and they're quite sticky when warm.

The car will probably travel ten KMs a year. The pishrods are too short anyway and even though the stock ls6 springs are apparently good for .570" was going to change them due to age and probably being soft by now hence wondering on changing the stick while am it.

It has a bit of poke now just being so heavy and riding 9-11 flat second bikes daily everything in the 13's feels unexciting and bland in a car that doesn't do corners.

350rwhp is what it's pushing on un ported 241's , stock manifold and throttle body.

LS1 cams seem to be mainly split pattern with a longer duration on the exhaust side eyy unsure if it's due to the non standardised bore/stroke compared to older small blocks and making more HP then torque compared to the good old days.

Never gets driven in traffic comes out when the boys wanna go out or I'm taking the Mrs out and my senators going to be at least another 6 months off the road possibly 12 after deciding to finally get a trade cert in something so $17 an hour and hotrodding/Resto builds are all being slowed down round the house.

 

[monstar]

265 35 18's if I'm honest it's the new d1 reg tyre and can get 300 treadwears as cheap as $80ea and they're quite sticky when warm.

Can you explain this a bit more, sounds like a good value tyre setup but I have no clue.

 

[harrop.senator]

LSA is 113.

 

[Immortality]

I'd start with the valve springs and see what happens.

 

[harrop.senator]

Can you explain this a bit more, sounds like a good value tyre setup but I have no clue.

To make it fairer on everyone in d1wa they limit the treadwear to no lower then 300. 265/35/18 is either widest you can run or the control, I've never been that level of competition to know all the rules.

Due to all the high level cars running 450-600rwhp with up to 180km? An hour from memory entry speeds they need as much grip as possible to push the speed to create the smoke.

Seeing as everyone runs the same size they bring containers in from China. Few different brands range from $80-100 loose but can get more known semi slicks like 595rs , nankangs , Westlake Rd for around the $130-140 mark due to the high number they being in as a lot of the time the boys buy 20 at a time of who ever brings them in and I get them to throw two or four more on their order for myself.

 

[EYY]

Running 12’s is probably more about car/driveline setup than trying to squeeze more power from it. Tuned properly I can’t see why it wouldn’t go high 12’s, even though they’re a heavy pos haha

With that lsa torque shouldn’t be too concentrated with a good spread - perfect for something you do a few k’s in

I’ve read that you’re better off with street tyres as opposed to semi slicks for going to the drags - something to do with with heat and carcass stiffness? Apparently they tend to spin up/melt easier?

 

[harrop.senator]

I'd start with the valve springs and see what happens.

Not doing anything twice. Had some lifter tick found pushrods weren't even at lash on base circle little own preloaded.

Worn cam bearings and main bearings with a pulled thread out the crank nose. Only good thing was no burnt valves , heads seem square and the comp everything else was a 230k old spin n fit cam swap. Was supposedly rebuilt at 228k but everything's as genuine n quarter mill old as it comes on tear down.