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Harmonic balancer bolt

shane_3800

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First question, which engine in the VL? RB30 or a 308?
Both the RB30 and the 308 and the 304 have a torque spec of about 10 to 20 ugga duggers so it's irrelevant.
:)
 

vc commodore

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Nah mate locktight is as universal as cokecola.

As for automatics park will not hold the engine as the torque converter is not locked.
If you have done more than fit tyres to a car you would know that simple piece of information about automatic cars not having the ability to stop the engine from rotating.
Youtube proof or it's false information
 

shane_3800

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This is why you dont ask a tyre fitter about mechanical work.
 

_R_J_K_

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So I figured it should all still be in the same position?
The harmonic balancer is keyed, it will only fit on in one position so there's no chance of advancing or retarding it even if you wanted to.

As for Loctite I've had it fine without before, just rattled it up with the ugga dugga method. Like Shane said, if in doubt.
 
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vc commodore

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This is why you dont ask a tyre fitter about mechanical work.
Didn't realise you were a tyre fitter as well...

So that makes you a tyre fitter/panel beater, technician (of what who knows), mechanic....Can't think of anything you have claimed you are....

One wonders how you got so many qualifications considering you state you are 32 years old....?
 
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mirrabucca

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Firstly, OP has a VP according to his signature.
I have done this job a few times on my VX, different engine, but the idea is the same.
As for the harmonic balancer being keyed to the crankshaft, ye sit is, but the key can get pushed out of place if you don't "wiggle" the balancer to align the key as you push it on. Use a torch to see the key and keyway and you'll know what I mean.
On my VX the HB is a tight push fit onto the crankshaft. Make sure the HB is clean inside where it slips onto the crankshaft. As said before, a little oil helps to stop it jamming.
If you undid the bolt and haven't removed the HB, then the bolt should go rigth back in. As before, check the threads in the crank and on the bolt. If they are damaged, sort that out first. I shudder to think how you would fix damaged threads in the crankshaft!
Easy way to remove the bolt is posted in this forum. Breaker bar and extension tube resting on the stabilizer bar (with a piece of wood as a cusion). Remove the EFI relay (A MUST DO!! Engine will start otherwise) and give the key a turn to start. The engine will loosen the bolt. USE THIS METHOD WITH CARE AND ATTENTION TO EVERYTHING THAT COULD GO WRONG And only "bump" the key to start. It's just to crack it).
To tighten the bolt you will need to make a tool that locks the crankshaft. The plans for that are in this forum (somewhere...) and in the Gregory's workshop manual. It fits onto the slots in the HB and rests on the car's subframe. You can then use a decent socket and breaker bar to tighten the bolt. But I would make sure you have the bolt correctly aligned and "snug" (with a normal socket handle) first. A breaker bar on a cross-threaded bolt will screw things up well and truly.
 

rambunctious

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Post #6 by the OP states bolt only problem.
HB not removed

This bit by mirrabucca says it all
"If you undid the bolt and haven't removed the HB, then the bolt should go rigth back in. As before, check the threads in the crank and on the bolt. If they are damaged, sort that out first. I shudder to think how you would fix damaged threads in the crankshaft!"
 
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