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HELP caliper->hub bolts ridiculously tight

pow3rslave

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all 4 wheels need new banjo bolts, so while i'm doing brake works i thought i'd take the front calipers off to respray them.
i've only taken the rear ones off before. but when i got new front discs and pads they must have done them up with a rattle gun or something cause they're stupidly tight. for a second i thought it might be reverse thread, but i didn't remember the rears being reverse threaded

tried a bar on the end of my socket wrench, hitting the spanner with a hammer, nothings shifting it.
 

leigh 7005

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got any penatrine or wd40 give that ago then try they are some tight suckers
 

ScoHar

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take that whole caliper mounting piece off and put it in a vice give that a go.
 

pow3rslave

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got any penatrine or wd40 give that ago then try they are some tight suckers
tried wd40, still wouldn't budge

take that whole caliper mounting piece off and put it in a vice give that a go.
you mean like disconnect the tie rods etc? if i had a vice i'd maybe give it a shot but unfortunately not.

might take it back to the place that put on the discs and pads and tell them they rattle gunned it too tight.

i know it's a safety thing but i didn't think the torque necessary on them was more than a person could do manually
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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I've never had them that tight that they won't undo with a bit of help. The ratchet or breaker bar you are using isn't against anything is it?

Let it hang down and use your foot to put pressure on it.
 

centy

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you mean the 3/4 dolts on the back of the caliper bracket?
Those suckers are suposed to be tight, long bar and foot is the choice.
Don't worry they are grade 10 and super strong.

Why do you need 4 banjo bolts? What have you done to stuff all four of them?
 

pow3rslave

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you mean the 3/4 dolts on the back of the caliper bracket?
Those suckers are suposed to be tight, long bar and foot is the choice.
Don't worry they are grade 10 and super strong.

Why do you need 4 banjo bolts? What have you done to stuff all four of them?
when put in new rears i noticed one was warped by being too overtightened. the hole through the side was less and O than it was an O, then when i put the bolts in, one snapped. i had another on hand so i was lucky. but i got a new set and been mening to do em for a while. figured while it's being done i can paint em properly too. right now i've got shiny red rears and crappy navy fronts with rusted hubs.
 

azkwazere

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they actually have a very low torque rating, rattle gun is just stupid if true.

All i can suggest is put a breaker bar on and "rattle" the **** out of it to get it off.

There has been no bolt on the car that i haven't been able to get off with blunt force and breaker bars.

Try to snap the thread lock, ie, immitate a rattle gun with a lot of force in short bursts.

aZk.
 

Tom_1569

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they actually have a very low torque rating, rattle gun is just stupid if true.
Agreed, heres the VT specs from the manual:
Front brake caliper anchor bolt 80 - 90 Nm, plus
40° - 50O turn angle
Rear brake caliper anchor plate bolt 70 - 100

In perspective a wheelnut should be 110-140nm.

I just use a small breaker ball and my foot. If its really tight get a large breaker bar and a bigger foot lol.
 

azkwazere

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A bash mallet or panel beaters dolly on a breaker bar should be sufficient.

aZk.
 
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