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Help: Error Code 47

Shane001

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Hi guys, sorry for posting a 'help' on my first post :(

But I'm hoping someone more experienced might be able to shed some light on my problem.

I did do a search and a google but not much luck narrowing down on '47'.

2000 VT series II wagon, V6 auto, 200K kms on the clock, just bought it a couple of weeks ago.
Normally starts first kick even when cold, but intermittently will not start, cranks but won't fire.
Also once it has cut out on me, sudden loss of ignition, then again wouldn't restart.
When it doesn't want to start, turning the key off an on a few times and then it starts OK again.
Otherwise seems to drive fine with no apparent issues.

Checked the error codes, it's throwing code 47, and going through my trusty Gregory's, I've done the voltage tests on D4 and the voltages are as they should be, which indicates faulty ecu :(

We've checked and cleaned the cam/crank/DFI connectors. I've also reset the codes a couple of times and after a reasonable drive it always logs 47. So there is definitely something wrong but ecu seems a bit extreme. Is there anything else I should look for / test before replacing the ecu?

Thanks :)
 

graham7773

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Something to do with CAS (crank angle sensor, behind the harmonic balancer) or DFI module. Odds are that it is your CAS or wiring

Code 46 - No Reference Signals While Cranking

Code 47 - 18x Reference Signal Missing

There at least 4 codes referring to no crank signal
 
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lout

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crank angle sensors are common faults, usually worse when warmed up
 

Shane001

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Thanks for your responses guys.

We originally suspected the CAS, but the only error thrown is 47, which for the VT is;
Crank Angle Reference Signal (No Signal).

The Gregory's provides several tests to determine the cause, which according to them, will be either faulty ecu or faulty DFI module.
The first test is to check the voltages going to pin D4 on the ECU from the DFI module. If these voltages are correct then the problem is the ECU, which is what I've tested.
Thinking about it this morning though, I did this test when it was starting. I probably need to do it when it's not wanting to start.
Either way Gregory's is suggesting the DFI module not the CAS if this voltage test fails.

So I'll try and get it to 'not start' again today and test it then. If the voltages are still OK then it looks like I'll be getting a new ECU :(
Otherwise I'll swap out the DFI first and hopefully this fixes it. I figure swapping out the CAS will be a pita job...
 

Brett_jjj

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Id be replacing the CAS first,its located behind the harmonic balancer which has to first be removed so you can get to the CAS,you need a harmonic balancer puller tool which are cheaply available from places like supercheap to remove the balancer,the CAS itself is just held on with 2 bolts and is easy to replace once the balancer is off.The reference signal is generated by the CAS in the first place, and code 47 will set if there is no reference signal generated by the CAS,It could also just be an intermittent problem with the CAS seeing the car still runs etc,so thats where Id start,and Id only fit a genuine CAS from holden.I just bought one not long ago for $120,you can get them on ebay for $40 or thereabouts,but they can be faulty from new, and they dont last very long,Ive ran into a few like this now,so they end up costing more in the long run than genuine ones do.
 

Shane001

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I ended up taking it to Holden today to get an official diagnosis, they confirmed it's the CAS.

Now I just have to weigh the time and drama of doing it myself without all the right tools or have someone do it for me. I'm not real keen on the starter motor method of removing the bolt, might try the belt method :) Then need to get a puller from SC. Word is it's hit and miss whether the pulley will come off easy or not? Sometimes they can be seized on? Anyone had a problem getting the pulley off with a 3 arm puller?

Also do you need to pull the radiator out to do this or just the fans will be enough?

And I'll def get a genuine one, they're not that expensive, and a new crank seal while I'm at it.
 

Shane001

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Well I decided to wimp out and get my mechanic to do it. Turns out the pulley came off pretty easy but the bolt was a complete bitch, so I figure that was a couple of hundred dollars well spent ;)

Turns out it was the crank angle sensor, has been about a week now and no more problems. I went with a genuine cas though, and put in a new crank oil seal for good measure, so I shouldn't need to take this off again for a while :)
 
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