Help Help Help 2006 VE on going saga it's dead

[07GTS]

are u using the correct alternator to suit VE ? many get a cheap replacement and its not a ecu controlled alternator, it is normal for the VE alternator to be charging in the mid 15v range, they should not be a static 14v like older style alternators

 

[gazzat]

are u using the correct alternator to suit VE ? many get a cheap replacement and its not a ecu controlled alternator, it is normal for the VE alternator to be charging in the mid 15v range, they should not be a static 14v like older style alternators

Hello 07GTS, well i certainly hope so, i specified that it is for the VE and quoted the month and year just in case they (GM) did a mod in anyway

 

[Fu Manchu]

1. I hope like hell you didn’t jump start the car. Refer to previous link.
You get a voltage spike and cooking CANbus modules anywhere in the car will hurt anyones brain.

2. Low voltage conditions will cause the ECM to ration voltage to less essential systems (less essential being systems that don’t keep the engine running) and that will start a plethora of false codes and engine light showing up.

3. There was a charge circuit software update on VE that solved low voltage condition faults. Holden can upload that. Voltage regulation is controlled by the ECM.

4. Have the battery load tested.
5. Have the battery health assessed (% ability to hold charge)
6. Have the charge circuit assessed.
7. Check the positive battery cable is not loose behind the glovebox. It bolts to a bulk head terminal on the fire wall. Glove box out and you need to get right up into the top left corner. Do this with the battery negative terminal disconnected and isolated.

So:
3. Done by Holden
4, 5 & 6 Done by roadside assist or battery world. Or buy a battery tester such as the Topdon for ~$50

https://premium-diagnostics.com.au/...google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gad_source=1

 

[gazzat]

Hi Chris, yes its a good bedtime story to put you to sleep. one thing they recommend is that never jump start from the battery in the boot.they built those jump post under the bonnet for a reason,use them, brand new battery as i say with brand new terminals and voltage difference between the battery post and jumper post is that minute you wouldn't worry about it, it is less then the 0.5V even at the alternator post that might be near the 0.3V but once again that minute not worth the worry.Yes you are quite correct and if you have read my other post i comment there on brain dead 6 figure designer come up with such an idiot idea to do that , but true the battery is in the P/S inner well between the inner and outer guard and then they run a heavy duty cable from there under the rear seat then along the sill up behind the P /S kick panel then up a bit more roughly just above the hinge height of the glove box then thru a bolt thru the firewall to the red post near the P/S coil strut, masterful plan, but as i say when i put the new battery and new alternator the car was good, it would start under its own power alternator was charging 14.4-14.5 v.Now when the new battery drops down to 11+v it wont start the car the starter solenoid but then the starter just clicks as the typical flat battery sound thats when i have to use the jumper battery on the post and it will start but the new alternator is only showing 10+v its like the stator windings windings is not getting enough power to create an EF big enough to create an ac to the rectifier. i hope that makes a bit of sense . cheers garry

hello again Crisp, i know i did a reply to you yesterday. But i just want to clarify with you that i have measured the battery voltage then the jump starter post under the bonnet exactly same voltage and then measured the voltage at the output post on the alternator and exactly the same NO voltage drops/ variances at all. But if the boot battery goes under the 12V mark the car wont start and i have to use the jumper battery at the posts but now as i say my brand new alternator is not showing any output voltage just battery voltage. Now there are 2 wires on the push in plug , i think from memory 1 is for the battery light on the IC and the other one is the supply voltage to excite the stator fields and today (maybe) i will go and try and find where this wiring goes to,i have a feeling that no voltage is coming down that wire so it is not exciting the stator windings to create the EF for the rotor to pick up on and start generating. I have a suspect the this line is dead so i will put my wire tracer on and see if i can follow it(it maybe broken or where it plugs into maybe a short/relay/fuse problem) or i think i have the manual i downloaded of JC that has the wiring diagram, i might be able to follow it on that. These wiring diagrams now are getting so big and complicated you (or just me) finish up losing the trial that you started off from, they need to be printed on a table size sheet of fold able paper so you can unfold it and spread it out on the table or floor and study it. Anyway cheers Garry

 

[Fu Manchu]

Hello 07GTS, well i certainly hope so, i specified that it is for the VE and quoted the month and year just in case they (GM) did a mod in anyway

I bought an alternator for my VZ that was suitable for my month and year… apparently. It wasn’t. It was for VY. They are still selling the same alternator for VZ two years later. Point is, it’s better to have your reconditioned or get a new genuine one ($500-$600).

 

[gazzat]

1. I hope like hell you didn’t jump start the car. Refer to previous link.
You get a voltage spike and cooking CANbus modules anywhere in the car will hurt anyones brain.

2. Low voltage conditions will cause the ECM to ration voltage to less essential systems (less essential being systems that don’t keep the engine running) and that will start a plethora of false codes and engine light showing up.

3. There was a charge circuit software update on VE that solved low voltage condition faults. Holden can upload that. Voltage regulation is controlled by the ECM.

4. Have the battery load tested.
5. Have the battery health assessed (% ability to hold charge)
6. Have the charge circuit assessed.
7. Check the positive battery cable is not loose behind the glovebox. It bolts to a bulk head terminal on the fire wall. Glove box out and you need to get right up into the top left corner. Do this with the battery negative terminal disconnected and isolated.

So:
3. Done by Holden
4, 5 & 6 Done by roadside assist or battery world. Or buy a battery tester such as the Topdon for ~$50

https://premium-diagnostics.com.au/...google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gad_source=1

Hello FU. Yes i have jump started the car, GM built in the jump starter post (and even advise you to jump start the car using them in the operators manual that come with the car, so they have built them in for a reason USE them and NOT the battery.Yes i understand point 2. So since GM closed trying to find any GM dealers is very hard to see if the upgrade has been done. If i could find what they have done when you go to the OBDII port put the scanner on and it shows what calibrations have been done on that vehicle.point 4 & 5 Brand new well known brand battery. Point 6 , i have already done my own charge circuit assesment and can tell you that the new alternator is not charging (why,i think the 'F' wire has no voltage supply so i am going to do a trace either by trying to follow it on a wiring diagram or put my cable tracer and follow it and see whats going on there).
point 7 already done.

 

[gazzat]

I bought an alternator for my VZ that was suitable for my month and year… apparently. It wasn’t. It was for VY. They are still selling the same alternator for VZ two years later. Point is, it’s better to have your reconditioned or get a new genuine one ($500-$600).

Hello again, i didn't get to this before the other reply. Full genuine VE $476 au dollars

 

[Fu Manchu]

The alternators voltage regulation is controlled by the ECM.

 

[gazzat]

The alternators voltage regulation is controlled by the ECM.

ok then that would mean that it is the ECM that send a voltage down that wire to excite the stator windings and create the EF. That might explain why when i switch on the key (no start) for a few milliseconds the needle on the IC go the wrong way (like a reverse polarity) and then when i turn to start the little green "WELCOME" also disappears for a few milliseconds, there is some real weird crap happening.As i have mentioned i brought this as a get around car while i do a complete rebuild on my Pajero but now this is taking all my time and now its not even drive able, i am really regretting buying this car, but i was a GM man back from my teen years (i am now a retired 67 Grease monkey and not like i know nothing or put some really silly stuff on the net that i just laugh at and adds to the confusion that guys are already having) and if it that then really the car is only worth scraping as i have to get the VIN No changed over and other variables, are these ECM prone to just crapping themselves at the drop of a hat or show indicators first, any idea)

 

[07GTS]

if u startup and it goes to 14v and stays there then after driving it stays there then its prob not right, usually after a startup it will charge at 15v to recover the cranking loss and then could go to the 14'sV, even sometimes on long trips with it fully charged it will even stop charging and sit round 13v for emissions, i was going to say if u still had ur old one on u could have done a test and put the headlights on when it was reading high voltage and it should after a few mins lower the voltage around the 14v because the headlight globes dont like 15+v for too long, it is a very over complicated charging system, there is a sensor on the battery negative wire so it can see discharge