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Help Help Help 2006 VE on going saga it's dead

chrisp

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Just to clarify… if the battery (in the rear) is charged up (by recharging using a bench charger), will the car start?

I’m try to work out if you have an issue with the cable running to the battery or not. The car should be able to be ‘jump started’ by jumping directly to the battery, or by jumping to the posts in the front - not that I’m recommending doing either.

But if you can start it by jumping to the front terminals, but it won’t start when jumping directly to the battery, there is a problem with the battery cable.
 

gazzat

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The alternators voltage regulation is controlled by the ECM.
hello and sorry for bothering you again. The ECM is the module located under the fuse box in the D/S of the engine bay, any other modules that i should be concerned with. cheers
 

Fu Manchu

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You need to understand that you are fault finding a computer network, not a car. As mentioned, if you have previously jump started the car, a voltage spike could have damaged any one of the vehicles many modules disrupting the network and affecting lots of other things. That is a headache no one needs and will take a lot of back probing and oscilloscope to find.
 

Fu Manchu

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hello and sorry for bothering you again. The ECM is the module located under the fuse box in the D/S of the engine bay, any other modules that i should be concerned with. cheers
There is like heaps of modules or something ridiculous like that.

All through the cars network.
 
L

losh1971

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Yes the VE Series 1 ECMs do fail on the V6, relatively common. But don't go swapping it based on trying the next best thing.
 

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if u startup and it goes to 14v and stays there then after driving it stays there then its prob not right, usually after a startup it will charge at 15v to recover the cranking loss and then could go to the 14'sV, even sometimes on long trips with it fully charged it will even stop charging and sit round 13v for emissions, i was going to say if u still had ur old one on u could have done a test and put the headlights on when it was reading high voltage and it should after a few mins lower the voltage around the 14v because the headlight globes dont like 15+v for too long, it is a very over complicated charging system, there is a sensor on the battery negative wire so it can see discharge
hello. when u say if it goes to 14v are you talking about battery voltage or alternator output because i don't get 14v anywhere i only get at the alternator post what ever the battery or jump starter post. My new alternator does not appear to be charging at all. I don't think i have voltage going to the 'F' post but FU MANCHU has just posted stating that the charge rate is governed by the ECM so that maybe stuffed but later on i will get my meter out and see what voltage is coming down that wire if any when the key is turned on. I had a fault code before saying something like voltage at F field is to high and it was reaching up to the 16v at times that is why i brought the new alternator, whacked it on and everything seemed to be ok but now the car just stopped on the side of the road 2 days ago with a flat battery (or not enough to meet all the demands) Radio went off, air bag warning sytem came on, faulty brakes came on, a whole load of errors. So i jumped started it by the post under the bonnet (had to wait a while for another car to turn up so battery probably rejuvenated itself a bit, anyway jump started it and i only had to drive about 3klms to home but she was a slow and engine rough ride). Like you (i will test this wire 1st and if it is getting no power the i take one path if it is getting power then i am thinking of putting the over charging unit back in just to see if its charging, if so then the new one has malfunctioned) cheers
 

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Just to clarify… if the battery (in the rear) is charged up (by recharging using a bench charger), will the car start?

I’m try to work out if you have an issue with the cable running to the battery or not. The car should be able to be ‘jump started’ by jumping directly to the battery, or by jumping to the posts in the front - not that I’m recommending doing either.

But if you can start it by jumping to the front terminals, but it won’t start when jumping directly to the battery, there is a problem with the battery cable.
hello, i have not jumped started from the boot as they do not recommending doing it that way, GM built those jumper post under the bonnet use them.Now if the boot battery gets to low then NO it will not start the car but if i put a jumper battery on the post the car will start and i am guessing because of the length of the cable and the current draw of the starter it takes too much out for the system to work but by putting the 2nd battery on that at least supplies enough to do the starter and what little bit it needs for the rest of the electrical system.
 

07GTS

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check battery voltage should be in the high 12v then with engine running anything above that is alternator voltage, the alternator wire is PWM controlled, if u can check alternator voltage at various points it will let u know what the wiring is doing, same with earths, using chassis earth to check positive points will give a reading and using engine as earth will then using same positive points show if there is any earth issues, also boot to front will show any wiring issues as crisp has been mentioning, a perfect system should have no change but if u do then it can show issue points
 

chrisp

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hello, i have not jumped started from the boot as they do not recommending doing it that way, GM built those jumper post under the bonnet use them.Now if the boot battery gets to low then NO it will not start the car but if i put a jumper battery on the post the car will start and i am guessing because of the length of the cable and the current draw of the starter it takes too much out for the system to work but by putting the 2nd battery on that at least supplies enough to do the starter and what little bit it needs for the rest of the electrical system.

Okay, I do agree with not jumping at the battery, but only because it is too physically confined to safely do so. But there is no electrical reason why it won’t work.

I do think you need to sort it out one step at a time. I would suggest recharging the battery and seeing if the car will start (without jump starting). If it starts and runs, then you have verified that the battery and the battery cable are okay - and then you can move on to checking out the charging system.

However, if there is some issue with the battery cabling, it could well be upsetting the charging system and it could also be upsetting some of the other modules in the car.
 

LS1VG

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it sounds like this fault is out of your skill range. Why don't you take it to an auto sparky and get them to fix it for you?
 
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