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Help Needed - Ecotec Coolant

graham7773

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This is as brief as I can make the description from the VT service manual

GET 3 RADIATOR PELLETS FROM HOLDEN
GET 7 LITRES OF NULON LONG LIFE COOLANT/CORROSION INHIBITOR
PUT CAR ON RAMPS

REMOVE THERMOSTAT AND REPLACE HOUSING

REMOVE KNOCK SENSORS FROM EACH SIDE OF BLOCK

REMOVE RADIATOR LOWER HOSE AT ENGINE FRONT COVER CONNECTION (WATER PUMP)

REMOVE TOP RADIATOR HOSE AT RADIATOR

PUT WATER HOSE IN TOP RADIATOR HOSE AND FLUSH UNTIL WATER COMING FROM BOTTOM CONNECTION (WATER PUMP) IS CLEAR

PLACE WATER HOSE IN BOTTOM RADIATOR HOSE AND FLUSH UNTIL WATER COMING FROM UPPER HOSE IS CLEAR

PLACE WATER HOSE IN LOWER RADIATOR HOSE CONNECTION AND FLUSH UNTIL WATER COMING FROM TOP CONNECTION IS CLEAR

REMOVE COOLANT RECOVERY RESERVOIR AND RINSE CLEAN

REINSTALL ALL HOSES AND THERMOSTAT AND PLACE THREE COOLANT PELLETS IN TOP HOSE
PUT SOME SEALANT ON THE 2 KNOCK SENSOR THREADS, REFIT

ONCE IT IS ALL BACK TOGETHER, PUT 6 LITRES OF COOLANT IN RADIATOR

NULON LONG LIFE? THEN ADD WATER UNTIL FILLED. BLEED SYSTEM. ADD 1 LITRE 50/50 COOLANT MIX TO OVERFLOW BOTTLE
 

vk4akp

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I've got 2004 VY Series 2 's.

51459409_10156226563841158_5820481134839988224_o.jpg


Is there any difference?

Is it still 12L fill Capacity?

Coolant bottle seems to suggest 1:2 Mix ratio, not 1:1 as stated here?

Is using De-mineralised water important? (It's only $3.50 for 5L from Bunnings).

What if I don't pull the knock sensors? Is that really a big deal. Didn't really want to do this.

I've had this car now over 5 years and haven't had a chance to flush it. I looked yesterday and it's quiet brown and yuk.
Still had it's green colour about 1+ Yr back. But not now. Still runs cool. Had a brand new Red Devil radiator fitted to it when purchased.
I do wonder about putting a flush through is as it's been neglected?

I was going to flush it first while running the car with the top hose off and garden hose in the top radiator fill cap to try and circulate all the rubbish out. This is how I used to do the older cars. I'm hoping this would negate me having to remove the knock sensors? Opinions?

I have Nulon Green Long Life Coolant (6 Litres) says makes 18 Litres. Lasts 5Yr/350,000Km.
(Different Spec's, bought 5+ yr ago on special).
.slide_IMAG1726.jpg

New spec's are - 7Yr / 500,000Km. :eek:
SCA_384350_hi-res.jpg


Any suggestions appreciated.
.-.-.
 

falcodore

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Is using De-mineralised water important? (It's only $3.50 for 5L from Bunnings).

I'm on the fence about this one. Generally speaking, tap water at least here in Vic is pretty clean so I just use tap water. If you're going to lose sleep over it, go demineralised.

I've had this car now over 5 years and haven't had a chance to flush it. I looked yesterday and it's quiet brown and yuk.
Still had it's green colour about 1+ Yr back. But not now.

Sounds like your inlet manifolds are toast. Get those fixed before you waste good coolant. If you don't fix it you'll be contaminating the new coolant with oil.

I have Nulon Green Long Life Coolant (6 Litres) says makes 18 Litres. Lasts 5Yr/350,000Km.
(Different Spec's, bought 5+ yr ago on special).

Nulon make great coolant, this is the older spec but will work fine in your vehicle.
 

BlackVXGTS

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Holden recommends a 50:50 concentration of coolant and water. Because some coolant is left behind in the engine, it's best to flush the engine/radiator through a few times with water, then add the 6l of coolant, and then top up with water to get the 50:50 concentration.
 

vk4akp

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OK you have me concerned about the inlet manifold now. I spent the night watching what video's I could find on replacing the gaskets.
By the look of it this is caused by two bolts (one either side) that go right through into the water jacket for some reason?
They run near a water jacket hole in the head that I assume passes water into the inlet manifold? Am I guessing correct?
Why this is necessary is beyond me. Anyhow the proximity of the bolt to this jacket flow through point allows the gaskets to get eaten away.
Maybe someone can explain this more accurately? Or maybe I'm totally off track?

Anyhow looks like MACE make alloy replacement inlet gaskets. They advertise them as the best option.
True? Or are there other better or more affordable options? You tell me.
Looks like $100+ just for gaskets. What a rip off. Give me the good old days.
I even remember seeing guys trace out gaskets in cardboard from breakfast cereal boxes for the old 202's. ;)

Anyhow doing this job is not beyond me but it's a bit of a bugger at this moment in life.
I don't have a garage to work in so it would have to be a front driveway job.
Neighbour is an A-Hole and will complain the second I start pulling the motor down. (violent type).
And to boot I have to run between this and my old man (dementia) throughout.

I am wondering about just running the hose through the system while idling and then repeat the flush after a few drives.
Leave tap water in for a week and then inspect to see how bad it is.

If it doesn't look contaminated well then I can drain and do it properly with 50/50 coolant and demineralised water.

Oh I forgot to mention. This car has had 3x different LPG systems fitted to it in it's day.
Since I've had it it's always idled rough and stumbles to almost a stall when slow reversing or turning the wheel to park.
I ditched the LPG plugs for NGK Iridiums and opened the butterfly slightly and this helped some but not totally fixed the issue.
The inlet manifold has bolt plugs where the LPG injector's were added (drilled & tapped in) at some point.
I suspect vacuum leaks and possibly some bastardisation of the ECU tuning?
I was planning on getting a smoke testing box eventually.

So I probably should chase a replacement manifold while at it? More hassle.

Opinions?
 
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Gw33dz

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If coolant is old it goes brown, doesn't mean there is oil in the cooling system. Check under the radiator cap for mayo. Oil floats on water so you should see it if it's present.

I would recommend using demineralised water, Nulon Green Concentrate, in a 50/50 mix.

I would also recommend premixing it, so you know the ratio is right.

Tap water has flouride, chlorine and all sorts of crap in it which will cause galvanic corrosion, damage your gaskets and seals and reduce the cooling efficiency of the loop.

Demineralised water is cheap, you can get it from supermarkets in the cleaning/ironing section.

If your inlet manifold gasket is busted then sort it out ASAP. If you leave it long you will get mayo all through your motor which will clog up your lifters, causing a rough engine, loss of compression and damaging your pushrods and rocker arms, which can lead to other more substantial problems to the rotating assembly. The Domino effect.
 

vk4akp

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I might just flush with the hose and replace the coolant using demineralised water.
I've had the car maybe 6-7 years at a guess. It's never been done. Nor the brake fluid. The overflow bottle has always had some brown grunge in it. Better then letting it sit until I can finally do gaskets.
I've rebuilt motors b4 many years ago so I have some idea on things.
 
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