HELP PLEASE VR Central locking problem

[A.C.COOKIE]

Hello all I have been having a problem with my vr central locking. The problem is when I go to lock it either with the key or the locking button on the key it will lock then immidiately unlock itself again and is becoming a royal pain. I have read through quite a few threads but all the others seem to only really contain info about the actuaters but these are all working on mine. PLEASE HELP. Any information would be muchly appriciated.

 

[hako]

What happens if you are inside the car with all doors shut and you try to lock it with locking button or the door snib?

 

[db_notso]

if you have recently had a door snib off and refitted it remove it and retry...

 

[A.C.COOKIE]

sorry about the delay in the response Im trying to replace my gear box today but cant get to the fly wheel bolts but thats a different problem, when Iam in the car and press the button it does the same thing and as far as pushing down the button on the drivers to activate the rest , well thats never been able to be manually pushed down since I have owned it ( second hand cars, you get what you pay for hey )

 

[hako]

You may need to remove the door trim and check that there is not something stopping the button/snib from going all the way down...sometimes the red bit gets caught....otherwise it's probably the solenoid/lock actuator that's buggered. Usually the drivers one goes first as it gets the most action. After you remove the trim, try locking the door again without the trim.

 

[08sky_way]

Following is a copy of a post I put up on 10-11-2010:


For years I put up with the problem of the doors locking/unlocking when the remote button was pressed but fixed it recently by replacing the driver's door lock actuator. This was a non-genuine unit (a Dynamco) costing about $35. A new genuine unit was priced at about $200. The only issue I had was sorting out the 5 coloured wires and matching them to the wires left on the car when I cut off the socket that plugged into the original (faulty) actuator. If you buy a Dynamco unit the wires are Black - Common, White - Open, Brown - Closed, Green - Power, Blue - Power. The wires on the car are: Black - Common, Red/Brown - Open, Orange/Brown - Closed, Black/Yellow - Power, Black/Red - Power. (Where I state e.g. 'Black/Yellow' this is the one wire with a trace - and I can't remember which is the trace). You simply match the wires from the new actuator to those wires left in the door. The only problems I had was with the power wires which I had the wrong way around on first try and I needed to cut away the lever on the door lock as it was too wide to engage in the hole provide on the new actuator. Grinding it away with a dremel did the trick.

 

[hako]

Following is a copy of a post I put up on 10-11-2010:


For years I put up with the problem of the doors locking/unlocking when the remote button was pressed but fixed it recently by replacing the driver's door lock actuator. This was a non-genuine unit (a Dynamco) costing about $35. A new genuine unit was priced at about $200. The only issue I had was sorting out the 5 coloured wires and matching them to the wires left on the car when I cut off the socket that plugged into the original (faulty) actuator. If you buy a Dynamco unit the wires are Black - Common, White - Open, Brown - Closed, Green - Power, Blue - Power. The wires on the car are: Black - Common, Red/Brown - Open, Orange/Brown - Closed, Black/Yellow - Power, Black/Red - Power. (Where I state e.g. 'Black/Yellow' this is the one wire with a trace - and I can't remember which is the trace). You simply match the wires from the new actuator to those wires left in the door. The only problems I had was with the power wires which I had the wrong way around on first try and I needed to cut away the lever on the door lock as it was too wide to engage in the hole provide on the new actuator. Grinding it away with a dremel did the trick.

Why don't you put your excellent post in the "how-to" section so others can benefit from it...it's easy, just start a new thread in that section. Normal searching will not bring it up. Good Post.

 

[A.C.COOKIE]

08sky_way thank you for your post it is a real helpful post which has made it easier for me to look at the actual problem. I still consider myself green in this area Iam used to rebuilding geminis and earlier fords eg xe xd xf so on but these newer models have me stumped. I almost have my gearbox back in so then Iam onto my door with no interuptions.
Once again thank you and I will keep you fine people informed on how I go with my central locking thank you again

 

[A.C.COOKIE]

hey guys thanks for the help it turns out that the drivers door button was actually wedged somehow against the plastic shroud locking it into place at the top or the door card itself, once again cheers for all the help

 

[VrWagz1]

For others reference aswell, i constantly have this issue in the wet weather. Its all to do with one or more locks not going fully down. Its usually a matter of just looking at which lock is not fully retracting, then working on it. Its always the wet weather makes all the guides and linkages sticky and the actuator is not strong enough to pull through it all. Basically door covers off, clean and spray all linkages, re-assemble door. Sweet as new.