so with a quick bit of research we can determine 60/40 (lead/tin) solder requires 180ish degrees to melt, ulp/pulp requires 350+ degrees to ignitite, now where is the problem with soldering a tank? unless you decided to use the iron as a hammer and manage to create a spark....... quote from msds for BP Premium Unleaded Petrol.
lol, yeah don't worry too much mate, I had a friend do the same thing in his VR Calais not too long ago... He just dropped the tank and went to repco and got some tank repair putty. Cost him about $12
I've had a fuel tank repaired by an engineering workshop. Was a tank out of a Bedford van that had a small hole worn through the bottom where a stone had lodged between the tank and a securing strap. They soldered it...but the tank came back puffed up. Still fitted OK (actually held more fuel than before) but they must have had a 'small' explosion.
super glue would work better, epoxy takes to long to dry to hold that back together. another thing i have always done was have the tank out of the car and sitting on the ground to stop any sparks jumping from a charged car body to the grounded iron, same basic knowledge you'd use when filling a 5 litre fuel tin at the servo.... be just silly if you left it in the boot open and decided to move the grounded nozzle to it.
I was told years ago by a guy who used to professionally weld up fuel tanks etc for a living, that you can either wash the tank out heaps, and then fill it with water so theres no space left in the tank,no air space in the tank =no explosion, or, you can run car exhaust gasses through a fuel tank whilst its being welded up, because the exhaust gasses are fairly inert, they wont allow an explosion to oocur. Id still be filling it with water a few times first and washing it out really well if I was gonna weld something like a fuel tank.