[Ecotec] Help stuck at 230kw only $2700 left in budget

[Adam_88]

That's a good idea really - W2A intercooling is a lot more efficient than A2A when done properly. Regardless of the methanol injector that poor little blower will be running way out of it's efficiency range so I suggest leaving the boost at the current levels.

agreed, id be saving my pennys for a whipple and aluminium heads

 

[Lazin]

That's a good idea really - W2A intercooling is a lot more efficient than A2A when done properly. Regardless of the methanol injector that poor little blower will be running way out of it's efficiency range so I suggest leaving the boost at the current levels.

Definitely not planning on pushing baby blower an harder.
Totaly forgot about meth/water inj decent kits are about $400 i think?
Damn more options!
"W2A intercooling is a lot more efficient than A2A when done properly." So do mace do it properly?
I've spoken to them a couple times, use and rate their TBs, & MAFs but would like someone who has one of their W2A coolers opinions

 

[one_and_only2004]

I haven't dealt with their blower applications but I always thought they just sold the plate that goes in between the blower and the motor, and you make up your own intercooler setup. My old ute was tuned through chiptorque and they said A2A intercooled top mount blowers go a bit funny due to the throttle being before the charger (I didn't really know or care what they were talking about at the time) but they said they were on top of it - and this was close to a year ago.

W2A intercooling is a lot harder to make from scratch too - you've got your radiator, pumps, reservoirs, Intercooler and plumbing to worry about - which is also a lot of weight. You loose about .2psi through the system though, which is very efficient. I've seen some systems with a 1% pressure drop on the internet.
A2A requires an intercooler and plumbing - I managed to get a mate of mine in Brisbane to do the whole thing for me, it cost $1500 using stainless steel piping TIG welded including all the brackets and intercooler. It lost about 1psi in a 10psi system, but gained about 60NM of torque. using silicon and alloy piping you could do it for a fair bit cheaper I reckon.

 

[delcowizzid]

air to air is the best way for the street theres so much air round to cool your charge water to air is good if you can keep the water cold with ice but most w2a kits for l67 are a restriction in the inlet under the blower its only a small hole under there why block it with a radiator in there LOL.i myself would stop spending money on the charger and sell it heads and all and go turbo like suggested above youll gain more than your 50Hp extra straight away LOL

 

[westerlybreeze]

My 2cents would be turbo :rockon:

But that depends if you like the superchargers early torque addition or want to chase more hp.
I saw a clip on youtube of a guy in the states blocking off the water gallery from the lower manifold into the S/C. (This lowers intake air temps a little of the S/C and T/B).
Do the Aussie M90's have this water gallery to block off?

 

[Lazin]

Yeah but the water doesnt go in the blower just touches the mating face, a mace spacer would block it.

and I do love the ista torque I have at the moment, don't want or need 400+ hp, high 300s with plenty of low down, I drive it every day in Syd.

Also trying to keep it original holden/Gm parts when possible.

I think IC and/or WaterM inj with rockers and retune should get me there.

 

[chargedvx6]

I think intercooling is essential at this stage. You have a low comp bottom end which is great and will also aid in efficiency with the boost. Efficiency will also aid in providing less restriction to the blower output too........food for thought.

Just how small is your cam? Can you provide some rough duration specs. Lift isn't really that relevant with these engines imo as it's the duration and intake centreline that allow the blower to flow through hence why it's called forced induction lol.

Considering you have a 4.2L you may need a cam that can breathe more to allow everything else around it to do its job better but that's only if your existing cam is really weeny.

So at this point bare minimum I'd be cooling it and setting it up for E85. A 2L surge, 044, 4.5m -6 braid fuel line and $150 of dash fittings, adjustable fuel reg, 60# injectors and a tune will see your torque figure where it should be. It looks to be way under to me for the mods you have and this is a sign of some major inefficiencies going on in your set up i.e. too much heat.

I may have missed it but is the car tuned at this stage? Who did the tune if you don't mind me asking?

 

[MACE]

As chargedvx6 has mentioned cam specs are needed first to be able to make an accurate decision.

 

[Lazin]

While I was building the 4.2 my old engine died and so it went in with what i had lying around this was the cam.
Lift
Int .308 - 1.6:1 =.493
Ex .308
Dur @ .050
Int 216
Ex 220
Int cent 108
Ex cent 116
Lobe Cent sep 112

 

[sircruisealotVS]

That cam isn't exactly tiny - for a street driven car (im under the impression that it is) that will keep the torque right where you want it. I'd say to leave it be and focus on temperature issues, get the best intake temps you can with the current setup in an intercooled form. Maybe even ceramic coat the exhaust to stop heat sink and keep the exhaust scavenging to it's fullest potential. Actually - i just read back and can't see what exhaust you have...if it's not a full twin setup that's something to consider as well.
Your torque seems to be really low for a blown stroker, so you need to unlock that potential. When i had my blown 4.2L it made pretty much exactly the same power, but a good 100nm more torque than your making.