Here are some modification parts for v6 3.8L !!

1. MSD coils = waste
2. forged internals. without boost? WHY?!
3. as above
4. yella terra do rockers for decent prices.
5. lifters. only if the cam needs them, otherwise, why bother?
6. cam. expensive for v6's and not that much gain.
7. timing set. again. why is that needed?
8. valve springs. stock ones are fine unless running a lot of power.
9. exhaust. yes, but a twin system will be overkill unless running boost.
10. twin throttle. yeah a benefit.
11. bigger throttle. kinda cancels out the need for twin throttles? and unnecessary on most engines. just increase throttle response but no real gain
12. pod filter. no. front bar CAI ftw
13. gears. 3.45 dont make much gain. go 3.7s
what would all those parts add up to? probably 5000 at least. much cheaper to supercharge. get a sc14 for $700 and bolt that on for a gain pretty much equal to all those parts with a basic setup and tune. spend less than all those parts combined and get an l67 motor fitted instead. forced induction is the cheapest and only real decent way of getting power out of a v6

 

sorry _gto_ but stocky knows his stuff for that price its easier to just go forced

 

1. Yeah those MSD coil packs are a upgrade if you run L36 (ECOTEC) coil packs. But if you run L67 (Supercharged) coil packs then it's simply a matter of putting red coil packs on instead of black. lol No real gains there.

2. Totally agree. Unless you wanted a totally animal N/A setup. ie Massive cam, with 12:1-13:1 compression, running race fuel and or NOS. It's a huge waste of money. Even if you are running a moderate blown setup. Just not worth the coin considering the alternatives available locally. You can get a few different types of piston to suit any application. ie ACL hyperutectic (spelling) for lower hp setups that just need better strength over standard. Or say Arias forged pistons for a high hp application. That's only naming two though, there are heaps more.

3. Yep agreed.

4. They actually look like YT rockers in that pic. YT have a massive reputation for rockers that is worldwide. They export massive amounts of rockers to the states, alot of them are straight to the V6 market. I run them on mine. These are a good investment if you don't want to run a cam, as they do a variety of ratios and the stresses releived on the valve train free it up.

5. Yep, agreed.

6. The cams aren't actually that expensive. And I beg to differ on the performance gain. You can see massive gains on the correct cam headwork combo, if you build it right with a plan from the begining. Ivan Tighe sell custom grind cams for like $500. Add a cam to a blown engine and you'll wake it up even more!

7. Only if you are going to run a cam. The Rollmaster timing chain sets available in the US are again exported from good ol OZ. They can be found locally through a heap of suppliers. But it is only required if you run a decent cam. I'd also recommend a double row to get rid of the chain tensioner. It's been found that running higher than standard valve spring tension seems to be connected to extremely high rates of chain tensioner wear. The the point where they are buggered in some cases within 5000-7500kms. A double row chain no longer requires a tensioner, however it does require removal of the balance shaft. Which isn't required if you change the cam anyway as it changes all of the harmonics through out the engine that the balance shaft is there to eliminate in the first place.

8. Valve springs are needed if running higher than normal lift. If you are running up to say a 1.9 ratio rocker then it's not necisary. But if you are going to run a decent cam, you should be running roller rockers, and you will need stronger valve springs. It's only because of the extra lift and duration, combined with a higher rev limit (which you need to run with a cam to take advantage of it.). It stops valve bounce and gives better control of the valve. This should especially be done on engines with high kms. Everything has a service life.

9. Depending on the size of the exhaust and the design. Running a dual system adds a lot of weight, so if you can avoid it. Do so. However, running a larger single system to some, doesn't sound as good or refined. I built a dual 2 1/4 inch system (custom) for a bloke running an ecotec with 1.9 ratio YT roller rockers. I fitted 1 5/8 paceys (which he had from a mate), dual stainless cored cats, a custom merge section and a the dual stainless 2 1/4" pipes with magnaflow mufflers. The result was amazing. The amount of midrange torque it picked up and the top end was awesome! But it has to be designed correctly and everything has to match. If you just chuck this with that. Then it's a waste of time, effort, money and power.

10. Yep agreed.

11. Yep agreed. Not much of a gain vs money outlayed.

12. Yep agreed totally! Picking up the air from the engine bay is the worst thing you can do. However, if you put a heat reflective shroud around the piod filter and totally sealing it off from the engine bay heat it can have great advantages. I found picking up the air from behind the headlight is good enough if you don't want to go cutting holes in your inner guard. But getting the air from outside is always a bonus.

13. 3.73 definately!!! 3.9s even if you don't do much hwy driving. But 3.7s are the best for sure!

I wouldn't say by putting all those parts together would be around equal to a SC14 setup. A well setup N/A engine with a well ground cam etc will flog a SC14 engine with a stock motor any day of the week. Where the SC14 would have better launch and take off due to better low down torque through forced induction. The N/A setup with a good cam etc would flog it in top end. However, the money outlayed to setup a good N/A motor would far exceed possibly three-four fold the cost of a well setup SC14 engine. But it's horses for courses. Spend the money and get a good motor. If a budget doesn't allow a big dollar build then the best thing is to way up what you want from the motor with a given budget then work a plan to get the best bang for buck combo with the best reliability for said money.

A L67 conversion is imp one of the best things you could do. It would cost a bit of coin initially. But unless you have a big budget and wanted to do something totally different and do a psyco N/A build. An L67 converion has gotta be the easiest way to get good, solid and safe hp. Or you could go totally crazy and do what I did... lol

Tark

 

IMHO, a monster N/A v6 would be wicked.
Or alternatively, imagine a stroked, bored, honed, ported and polished beast with a twin throttle body setup and twin sc14's runnin say 12 pound each. A completely balanced bottom end and an old school type top mounted air scoop.

I think it would be choice.

Again IMHO.

 

Building a n/a v6 isnt the best idea, pretty much end up with an angrey thirsty engine that wont make that much power and will cost u heaps to build.
spend the money on a supercharger or turbo or something.

 

or both???

 

Or drop a v8 in and forget about the crappy v6

 

/\/\/\/\/\/\ HAHAHA I lol'd

 

Ive got a vp N/A exec sedan 4.3 stroker v6 5spd 3tonne Brass button, 5.0L radiator, active twin T/B manifold, Acl Forgies, bosch 044 pump rising rate fuel reg, msd coils, custom cam yella terra rockers,competition pacemaker headers (HPC Coated) "3" mandrel bent system, metal cat, "3" 1 peice bulletproof T/S, 35 spline billet axels, 37 gears, remapped kalmaker E.C.U Remove A/c remove back seats remove towbar 223kw@ wheels 376nm run a 12.7 at willowbank on cold night sofar its cost me round $8000 including car did all work myself and waxing most V8's so u shouldent really under estimate a v6 lighter motor lighter gearbox lighter brakes my advise is v6 commodore bang for buck is great way to go.

 

THats very promising HoG....What is needed to get get 200-210kw at the wheels ?

 

Despite the criticism, i believe it was a good write up as instead of disecting everything, majority of the parts go hand in had, cam, lifters, timing chain, springs etc. Some people claim the rods are the weakest link in the ecotec, why not strengthen them. Why nto do pistons as well ? Using them to either increase or lower compression for a Cam or Boost. Then naturally you need to upgrade exhaust. Chuck in some MSD's along with a Ken Belle Spark Booster kit, and you improve spark/fuel burn for you new found extra fuel/air from your cam etc.

 

would like to see more details of this car as half of those specs sound bs

 

A monster N/A V6 would be a waste of time.
ROFL... Can't help myself.

I think the normal sc14 that is cooled would be the go. Just keep turning up the wick till something goes bad and then back it off a tad.

Reaper

 

A gen 3 isn't much heavier than an iron V6.

Lighter brakes? you idiot.

 

Motor comment is very valid.

Lighter brakes..... dont you love school holidays?

 

They do have lighter brakes dont they, calipers and disc size etc ???

 

Figures courtesy of your friendly neighborhood G-Tech.

Accurate like big hammer.

Whoops.....I've started the G-Tech debate again lol

 

It's all 'relative' .. dynos are also inaccurate if you compare against different brands, operators, modes etc..

they're all a tuning tool, and as long as they're accurate against themselves (e.g. to measure differences between runs) that's all that really matters.

1/4 mile time and mph is a much better indicator of performance for 'bragging rights'