High pass/low pass filter

[191kieran191]

basic setting for High Pass filter 80-100hz try and set your sub woofer low pass close to your speakers example how i have mine 80Hz high pass for front speakers and 70Hz for subwoofer low pass you dont want to big of a gap or certain frequency wont be herd and it will sound like crap and on the gain less is more also when turning turn the EQ to flat and make sure loudness is off

 

[magnumv8]

Doesnt your head unit allow you to change the crossover frequency of the pre-out to the sub-my avh-x3500dab allows this so I have all filters off to allow full frequency through and adjust at my head unit depending on what I'm listening too. I am running a 10" sub so it can deal with crossover frequencies to 125hz.

 

[Tasmaniak]

Stop playing with the equivalent in the deck! That effects everything including your sub... StoneX hit the nail on the head and you were on the right track with the hpf/lpf. Set them to around 100Hz and adjust faster to suit... also your best bet is to disconnect your rear door speakers. Better yet, put them in the front! Leave the rear doors empty and be kind to your CD Player lol.

 

[auzzie_bradd]

basic setting for High Pass filter 80-100hz try and set your sub woofer low pass close to your speakers example how i have mine 80Hz high pass for front speakers and 70Hz for subwoofer low pass you dont want to big of a gap or certain frequency wont be herd and it will sound like crap and on the gain less is more also when turning turn the EQ to flat and make sure loudness is off

What do you mean with the gain less is more? :S

 

[auzzie_bradd]

Doesnt your head unit allow you to change the crossover frequency of the pre-out to the sub-my avh-x3500dab allows this so I have all filters off to allow full frequency through and adjust at my head unit depending on what I'm listening too. I am running a 10" sub so it can deal with crossover frequencies to 125hz.

i don't think so :/

Stop playing with the equivalent in the deck! That effects everything including your sub... StoneX hit the nail on the head and you were on the right track with the hpf/lpf. Set them to around 100Hz and adjust faster to suit... also your best bet is to disconnect your rear door speakers. Better yet, put them in the front! Leave the rear doors empty and be kind to your CD Player lol.

Yeah thats what i was planning so keep the equalizer at flat?

Yeah ive thought about the speakers! Haha, iiiidk im gona get speakers and an amp but i don't know when, so i cbf changing the speakers aroud at the moment haha

 

[magnumv8]

I do think so, Works fine for me, guess thats where we come here to share our opinions. I'm not a fan of fiddling too much with sound on my home system but in the car it always needs help imo regardless of how good or bad your system is......

Aussie-you can set via your head unit the crossover points for your sub and front/rear speakers, I'v set the low pass for the sub at 125hz and the high pass for the front/rears at 100-its what I like sound wise-have a play around-I had a little fiddle this arvo and there was no difference when I turned the low pass on at my amp so I left it switched to full...My reasoning behind using the head unit to do this job-its electronics must be more reliable and accurate than a variable resistor and a switch.

 

[auzzie_bradd]

I do think so, Works fine for me, guess thats where we come here to share our opinions. I'm not a fan of fiddling too much with sound on my home system but in the car it always needs help imo regardless of how good or bad your system is......

Aussie-you can set via your head unit the crossover points for your sub and front/rear speakers, I'v set the low pass for the sub at 125hz and the high pass for the front/rears at 100-its what I like sound wise-have a play around-I had a little fiddle this arvo and there was no difference when I turned the low pass on at my amp so I left it switched to full...My reasoning behind using the head unit to do this job-its electronics must be more reliable and accurate than a variable resistor and a switch.

Ok cheers mate, when i fiddle aroud with the settings next ill definately try to go more in-depth with it thanks mate

 

[191kieran191]

just because you turn the gain up dont mean your getting more volume your just maxing the amp out to soon i have my gain like less then half because you dont want to turn your head unit to 10 and have it blasting loud

 

[StoneX]

I do think so, Works fine for me, guess thats where we come here to share our opinions. I'm not a fan of fiddling too much with sound on my home system but in the car it always needs help imo regardless of how good or bad your system is......

Aussie-you can set via your head unit the crossover points for your sub and front/rear speakers, I'v set the low pass for the sub at 125hz and the high pass for the front/rears at 100-its what I like sound wise-have a play around-I had a little fiddle this arvo and there was no difference when I turned the low pass on at my amp so I left it switched to full...My reasoning behind using the head unit to do this job-its electronics must be more reliable and accurate than a variable resistor and a switch.

Generally, they're not opinions when the person stating it has been installing for years. It's actually facts that have been learnt through many years of installing and tuning.

Personally I wouldn't ever use 125Hz LPF for any system unless I didn't care about the sound quality and just wanted loud music. I always use both amp and head unit filters as it can cause sharper cutoff than a single filter.

Your assumption about electronics at the end of your is not correct.

 

[magnumv8]

Calais, I will agree to disagree on this one. Installed my first system in 1989-just a few years ago. These days I install home theatre and can happily tell you I am just a little experienced. Sound quality in a car is always going to be sub standard almost below average compared to what I deal with daily.

I set my 10" sub at a slightly higher crossover point as it suits the music I listen too and also its what I like. I rarely turn it up and find a little extra punch down low is what I prefer. Due to the poor enclosure acoustics in a car door regardless of what you treat it with I always set my sub to fill in the hole in the lower end of what you can get a 6, 6.5 or 6x9 speaker to accurately reproduce. I will happily rely on my head unit to control the crossover point I like best and will let my amp do its job with as little restriction as possible.

If you have a good read of my last post you will see I advised the op to have a play around with his settings-he will decide whats best regardless of what you or I suggest.