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High pressure air sound on drivers side of motor

spud_22

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When you change the head gasket you have to change the inlet manifold aswell. I would be leaning towards the new engine because it has warranty. Who knows what could pack up next after you change the head and inlet manifold gaskets.
 

Brett_jjj

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Woah 445,000km!!! im extremely impressed.
My Ecotec is already blowing smoke on startup at 182,000.


Ive seen plently if these V6 engines reach 450,000 km or more and still not blow any smoke. My VSV6 has got over 200,000 km on it now since it was reconditioned, and its still got compression and oil pressure readings that are on par with a engine thats done half the km... Its all in how theyre looked after, they need regular engine oil and filter changes and regular coolant changes etc, and another thing that makes a huge difference to engine longevity is letting the engine pretty much idle along until its fully reached operating temperature before giving it a gutfull and reving it hard or putting it under heavy load. If you follow these things it will greatly increase the life of the engine.


CRCinAU- If your gonna buy another second hand engine, make sure you either hear it running first or buy one with warranty.
 
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CRCinAU

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Its all in how theyre looked after, they need regular engine oil and filter changes and regular coolant changes etc, and another thing that makes a huge difference to engine longevity is letting the engine pretty much idle along until its fully reached operating temperature before giving it a gutfull and reving it hard or putting it under heavy load. If you follow these things it will greatly increase the life of the engine.

Yeah - I'm like driving miss daisy - although the Mrs tows her horses around all the time with it... It gets services (new oil, oil filter) every 10,000km (+/- 800). New air filter every second service.

CRCinAU- If your gonna buy another second hand engine, make sure you either hear it running first or buy one with warranty.

It has a three month warranty... I've just got to confirm that they are expecting to put LPG on the new engine as well.... Even though its a factory fitted LPG, I want to make sure they are aware that the LPG system stays...
 

CRCinAU

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I'm just wondering... With the replacement motors.... Is there such a thing as modifications that would be done for a factory LPG motor? Are all the VR compatible engines able to run LPG without modification?

As the car has a factory LPG system fitted, it should be very easy to connect to another motor - but I'm wondering about valve seats etc etc for LPG...
 

Wozza

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Na as far as I know the motors are all the same...besides the valve seat issue was only on pre unleaded cars.....
 

CRCinAU

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Ok, well. I've got the car back after getting a changeover engine installed. It runs nicely now - however I'm having some issues with overheating. I can leave it idle for ages and the temp doesn't increase too much - I can even drive it around the local streets, but whenever I hit 80kph+ the temp climbs to between 1/2 and 3/4... as soon as I slow down again, the temps return to the lower 1/2 of the dial...

I replaced the thermostat today - no difference. It heats up quickly to around the normal temps, and sits there on idle. Only 80kph+ seems to get the heat going.

I've also noticed that the heater in the car doesn't seem to get very hot. I've checked the vacuum operated heater tap and that seems to be operating as it should (ie the switch opens and closes) although I had to fix this - the cutoff wasn't working properly at the start.

Any suggestions on this? I would assume that when they replaced the motor that they would have done a flush etc...
 

aussieakito

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probably full of air.
have a go at bleeding it.
just get the engine warm and open up the bleeder.

make sure the heater is on while you are doing it.
 

CRCinAU

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probably full of air.
have a go at bleeding it.
just get the engine warm and open up the bleeder.

make sure the heater is on while you are doing it.

I've done this so many times its not funny. When warm, I get either a trickle or a stream of coolant coming out the bleeder...
 

Brett_jjj

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Ok, well. I've got the car back after getting a changeover engine installed. It runs nicely now - however I'm having some issues with overheating. I can leave it idle for ages and the temp doesn't increase too much - I can even drive it around the local streets, but whenever I hit 80kph+ the temp climbs to between 1/2 and 3/4... as soon as I slow down again, the temps return to the lower 1/2 of the dial...

I replaced the thermostat today - no difference. It heats up quickly to around the normal temps, and sits there on idle. Only 80kph+ seems to get the heat going.

I've also noticed that the heater in the car doesn't seem to get very hot. I've checked the vacuum operated heater tap and that seems to be operating as it should (ie the switch opens and closes) although I had to fix this - the cutoff wasn't working properly at the start.

Any suggestions on this? I would assume that when they replaced the motor that they would have done a flush etc...

It could be a worn water pump rotor causing this. The vanes on the water pump rotor can wear, (especially on some cheaper pumps), which then restricts the flow of coolant through the engine at higher revs, causing overheating. Also check the bottom radiator hose for collapsing when the engine is revved.
 
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