Hints / tips wanted: floor restoration

[ScoHar]

try and get dry ice, its makes it piss easy to do all seems to come up in big clumps rather than tiny little pieces.

 

[centy]

roller would be better thin the paint a little and you would get a good finish and not overspray.
to reduce weight remove ac, line doors with a thin sheet of aluminium. remove the metal mouldings around the doors on the outside.
upgrade to a vs brake booster, they are plastic.
Make sure you have the small vn brakes on the front a they are smaller and lighter.
all these would save weight.

 

[1991_Vn2nV]

roller would be better thin the paint a little and you would get a good finish and not overspray.
to reduce weight remove ac, line doors with a thin sheet of aluminium. remove the metal mouldings around the doors on the outside.
upgrade to a vs brake booster, they are plastic.
Make sure you have the small vn brakes on the front a they are smaller and lighter.
all these would save weight.

Seeing as he wants to race the car, I don't think small brakes are much of a reccomendation Is it really worth the weight saving?

 

[ScoHar]

Or even better sand blast it? depends how deep you want to go.

 

[rob drag racer]

its a pain in the posterior i did my first vp race car with a heat gun and scraper and will be doing my new vns1 the same way soon as Jason said its bad stuff if you use a heat gun make sure your in a well ventilated area with the windows down and yeh get some thinners or petrol to wash ya hands with after its as hard to get of skin as it is metal especially with just soap and water have fun :whistling

 

[Morton]

1) The best thing to get off the last of the residue, is acetone. Lots of acetone. I'm pretty sure a wire brush will just smudge it.
2) Prime it with a good outdoor rustproof primer. White Knight do a good primer for a decent price, and a 1L can should get you two coats all over.

KEEP IN MIND: If you use 2 litres of paint, that's 2 kilos of weight

I suggest you use acetone on the deadning, which leaves the factory rustproofing intact. Then fish oil the whole thing for rust protection, and once it's dried up, give it one or two coats of White Knight Rustkill Hammertone paint. That stuff does NOT need primer, so you save on paint weight

 

[AirStrike]

1) The best thing to get off the last of the residue, is acetone. Lots of acetone. I'm pretty sure a wire brush will just smudge it.
2) Prime it with a good outdoor rustproof primer. White Knight do a good primer for a decent price, and a 1L can should get you two coats all over.

KEEP IN MIND: If you use 2 litres of paint, that's 2 kilos of weight

I suggest you use acetone on the deadning, which leaves the factory rustproofing intact. Then fish oil the whole thing for rust protection, and once it's dried up, give it one or two coats of White Knight Rustkill Hammertone paint. That stuff does NOT need primer, so you save on paint weight

Doesn't need primer..........ever read the label or only the front of the can All non-ferrous metals need to be primed with etch primer, so aluminium and its alloys.
Unless your VQ is made from cast iron.........which would account for the extra weight, lol.

 

[Sami]

Centy, because there is weight to be saved! Nobody refined ever rides in my car anyway man
**hopes mrs doesn't read this thread**

*mrs reads thread* :bop:

 

[savage1987]

LMAO!


aaaah ****


Thankyou morton and company for your input

I will get the deadener off and then decide what I want to do about paint.

 

[greenfoam]

Forget the fish oil, this is a race spec floor not an old cargo ship, get the deadner off and clean as you can without damaging the zinc or whatever the sheet metal is coated in, then use dexodine to be sure the surface is clean and any rust particles are disolved. Then paint it. Since you wont be using two pack (would have been good on the floor) just use a primer and white acrylic, then it will be easy to polish up and plenty waterproof enough to last about forever