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Holden Cruze wont start during cold weather.

tr1990

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Hi All,

I should probably firstly start with saying that I am not very knowledgeable when it comes to cars so I'm hoping you guys can give me some ideas or directions I should be looking to troubleshoot this issue. If anyone has had this problem before and knows how to resolve it... i'd like to buy you a beer!

I own a Holden Petrol Cruze 2010 CD (yeah, I know... not the best car out there you don't need to comment on that.)

It appears that when the weather is 25 degrees or higher, the car will start and drive with no problems. Anything lower, and it won't start.

My younger brother is quite good when it comes to cars so he's helped me diagnose the issue as much as possible.

I've asked him to write down a list of things that we've done for troubleshooting and what we've replaced so that it narrows down what the problem could be.

So far we've replaced the:

Engine Control Unit (ECU) because it had failed.
Coil Pack because it was faulty. This did resolve an issue with the car driving very jolty and now the car drives perfect... when it starts....
Spark Plugs.
2 of the Cam Position Sensors, not the ones connected to the cam gear.

As for work we've done on the car:

Rocker cover gasket has been done
Engine disludge and oil change
We took the car to Holden who couldn't find the issue because the car started for them every day for a week so they did a Carbon clean.

As for troubleshooting, when the issue occurs:

No Injector Pulse and Fuel Pump Prime.
Engine will crank but will fail to start.

My younger brother believes it may be an issue with the immobiliser but before i'd fork out that money, i'd like to see if there were any other suggestions.

All work and troubleshooting has been done by proper Auto electricians, Mechanics, Holden Service Staff and NRMA Roadside Assistance staff.

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

Most appreciated.
 

Cruz2010

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Hi Just wondering if you ever got this fixed as I have a Holden Cruz 2010 and I'm having exactly the same issue,

So your help would be greatly appreciated?

Thanks
 

XUV

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mate had a problem with his daughters cruise , not starting, dash strobbing,
being old school he popped the bonnet and gave the battery terminal a shake,

he found the pos terminal box thing loose, wiggled it and it came good.

he took it to holden, which was where he was going,
as they had deleted thrown codes and told them drive it for a while and bring it back and we'll see what codes it's thrown .....
it was loose or forming a bad connection, thus sending codes,

He explained his finding and they did something to it, not sure, maybe tighten or replaced pos connector,
he described it as a box fanning off to 6 wires.

so hey give it a go, as sometimes you've got to go back to basics first before tech2.
 

tr1990

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Hey guys,

Yes, i got the issue fixed at Castle Hill Holden. Was quite happy, they said it was a wiring issue with the engine relay.
 

marvinstokes

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Sold my wife's 2011 Holden Cruze with 50000 kms on it to her sister. We never had a problem with it but one week after selling it the sister-in-law rang up and said that the car would not start. They tried jump starting it then bought a new battery ($240 fitted!!) because a battery expert said that the old one was dead. The car started and lasted a day then would not start again. Brother-in-law called a mobile mechanic ($120) he looked under the bonnet poked around and by magic the car would now start. Next day the car left the Brother-in-law stranded in Melbourne. He hired a car for three days ($180) all the time ringing me up to come and look at it. Eventually I went around and checked the following:

1. Battery in remote was correct type ( CR 2032 ) and had plenty of charge.
2. Clutch pedal safety switch was operating.
3. Checked that driver's floor mat was not preventing full travel of clutch pedal.
4. Checked battery leads were tight, Negative was loose and just came off when I wiggled it ( so much for the battery expert!!) - Unusual design which makes tightening it difficult. Retightened it using pliers to clamp the post whilst doing up the locking nut.
5. Unlocked lid of black plastic junction box embossed with 'Do not jet wash' symbol on top of battery. Checked six leads inside for tight connections. One was loose! - Probably came like it from the factory, the connector was a thick brass tab with a hole in it. It was placed over a threaded post and a nut was done up by just a few threads. I tightened it up thus clamping the connector to it's mating surface.

The vehicle now performs like new again! - So much for the Mobile mechanic. This was an intermittent problem probably because as the car was driving the loose connector was moving slightly and had probably arced for the last 4 years and reached a point when it was no longer making a good contact. The mobile mechanic did not know what he was looking for but had probably knocked the box whilst he was rumaging around under the bonnet. He gleefully held out his hand for $120 not actually knowing what he had done!!!!

Hope this post will be of help to anyone with a similair problem.

Marvin.
 
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