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Holden cv8z monaro ls1 to lsa conversion

shane_3800

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Are guys seriously spending 20+ and not going standalone wired in? I thought you'd go straight for a haltech or link on a conversion like this either way.

I thought with e-2x systems and other well set up catch cans the valve coking was practically over?

Understand what you're saying with it. I just see all the improvements made for gen 3's in the last 25 years. If I was going to b spending that bigger money I'd be fitting new technology that the issues will be ironed out over time vs spending the same on 25 year old technology.

In saying that some people do spend 40k on cars they won't keep a lifetime. I don't see myself selling anything but my vs ute I own in the next twenty years. So I outlay a fair bit to save myself from doing it in five-ten years.
Haltec, link ect don't currently support DI engines.

And no it's impossible to keep the back of the valve clean with a DI engine unless you inject fuel in the port too. But LT heads are dry port designs so that would be a bad idea.
Lexus uses DI with port injection.
 

harrop.senator

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Link definitely does for four cylinders. Unsure if they do any for 8? Pretty sure motec M182 do as well.

Good info! They're out of my league cash wise so haven't done much research into any of it.

I've just had a couple of the valve coking "solves" come up in my YouTube home feed.
 

lmoengnr

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Haltec, link ect don't currently support DI engines.

And no it's impossible to keep the back of the valve clean with a DI engine unless you inject fuel in the port too. But LT heads are dry port designs so that would be a bad idea.
Lexus uses DI with port injection.
LT5 uses DI and port injection...
 

shane_3800

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LT5 uses DI and port injection...
Okay didn't know that. The head casting would be different so getting a hold of some LT5 castings would work well on other LT engines.
I assume this will be the next cool mod.
 

Ginger Beer

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Have you thought about a new rebuilt LS1, you have all the auxiliaries, drive train components, wiring and ECU, it would be just pull the old LS1 and drop in a new one, and a tickle to your current ECU

You could go mild to wild NA for alot less than a LSA swap

I'm assuming even a rebuilt LS1 with some boost would be close in cost to changing the powerplant to a LSA including all the required auxiliaries and driveline components, and the required engineering certs, plus things that the engineer might stipulate needs updating, like brakes.......and stuff

Plus a built LS1 with some go fast bits will smoke a stock LSA

This is assuming you will need all the stuff that will be required if you are looking at a LSA

Plus, keeping the original LS1 will negate engineering certificates as long as you stay NA

Is it just the block that is kaput?

If it is just the bottom end that is lunched you might be able to find a used short block and use the top end from your current LS1 to get a shop to rebuild

Options according to me, a over opinionated bumhole:

1. You could rebuild a wild LS1 and get the new engine number updated for possibly around $15-20k drive in drive out, no engineering required

2. Or, a mild LS1 with a HTV2300 engineered in and it will still cost less than a LSA swap

I would be contacting a workshop and sitting down for a in-depth chat on requirements and costs

My hasty budget "guestamation" for a good LSA swap would possibly start at at over $30k, minimum, if you do alot of the work yourself, whereas a wild NA LS1 will cost half that as a drive in drive out job

Possibly, meh, I went option 2 because I need drivability, and I've never owned something with a positive displacement blower
 

shane_3800

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Have you thought about a new rebuilt LS1, you have all the auxiliaries, drive train components, wiring and ECU, it would be just pull the old LS1 and drop in a new one, and a tickle to your current ECU

You could go mild to wild NA for alot less than a LSA swap

I'm assuming even a rebuilt LS1 with some boost would be close in cost to changing the powerplant to a LSA including all the required auxiliaries and driveline components, and the required engineering certs, plus things that the engineer might stipulate needs updating, like brakes.......and stuff

Plus a built LS1 with some go fast bits will smoke a stock LSA

This is assuming you will need all the stuff that will be required if you are looking at a LSA

Plus, keeping the original LS1 will negate engineering certificates as long as you stay NA

Is it just the block that is kaput?

If it is just the bottom end that is lunched you might be able to find a used short block and use the top end from your current LS1 to get a shop to rebuild

Options according to me, a over opinionated bumhole:

1. You could rebuild a wild LS1 and get the new engine number updated for possibly around $15-20k drive in drive out, no engineering required

2. Or, a mild LS1 with a HTV2300 engineered in and it will still cost less than a LSA swap

I would be contacting a workshop and sitting down for a in-depth chat on requirements and costs

My hasty budget "guestamation" for a good LSA swap would possibly start at at over $30k, minimum, if you do alot of the work yourself, whereas a wild NA LS1 will cost half that as a drive in drive out job

Possibly, meh, I went option 2 because I need drivability, and I've never owned something with a positive displacement blower
So you're pretty much saying what I'm saying.
I said buy a new block and build it from there.
 
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