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Home spray job on my vr commodore

Andrew1994

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commoVT

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as soon as i saw this thread i thought, oh god, this could turn out bad
 

FstStig

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Any Scratches sand right back to bare metal using some 120, then feather it out using some 180. If you still find you have scratches in the metal it's self then use some bog to fill them. Allow for the bog to dry and go hard, then use some 80 to sand it down and some light 120 to feather it out.
 

FstStig

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Any Scratches sand right back to bare metal using some 120, then feather it out using some 180. If you still find you have scratches in the metal it's self then use some bog to fill them. Allow for the bog to dry and go hard, then use some 80 to sand it down and some light 120 to feather it out.
 

DAKSTER

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First, read as much as you can about it. There is plenty of info online and on this forum. Thats what commovt was referring too, there is already plenty of info on the forum to be found, and people will flame you. There is also an ongoing debate on 2k vs acrylic for beginners, I am not getting into that one this time round lol.

Secondly, do you really want to respray? Unless you want to change the colour, most scratches are usually in the clear top coats, and can be sanded and/or buffed out. This totally depends on the condition of the car of course.

Thirdly, unless there is an actual dent in your car, throw the bog away. If there is a dent, then try to fix the dent as much as possible with hammers and dollys before using the bog. Bog is badly named, it shouldnt be called body filler, it should be called imperfection smoothing compound :D Less is best.

Ok, so if you think the scratches are mostly on the surface, then first try removing them without removing too much paint.. hit em with a buffer and some cutting compound.

Once you have established which scratches may be deeper, gently hand sand the general area around them with 800 grit wet n dry, used wet. If you can avoid getting through all the clear coat and exposing the base coat, but have effectively removed the scratch, this is the best result. Now all you have to do is hit it with the buffer again.

If the scratch goes through to the base (coloured coat) but not through it, then you can get a spray pack (make sure you get one with the right kind of paint in it! enamel, 2K and acrylic dont live together well) and put clear back on it.. rub it back with 800 grit until it blends with the rest, then buff it. If there are lots of them, rub the whole car back with 800 grit, then spray it with clear only. Let it dry and buff it up, it will come up like new.

If the scratch goes through the base coat, then you have to decide whether its worth respraying the whole car. If its a small, un-noticeable scratch, the answer is probably no, unless you are keen and committed or really want a change of colour as well. If there are lots of them or they are really noticable, then you may decide to do a full respray.

If you are going to respray the entire car, then you are mad not to use primer, simply because its cheap and easy, and will guarantee a much better end result. Bear in mind that if you are changing colours, you also need to do the metal inside the car, like inside the doors, boot, engine bay etc.

A full, change of colour respray using the paint you have nominated, will require the following stuff additional to whats in the ebay pack you mentioned. Personally I wouldnt go that way, I would head to my nearest auto paint supply specialist and ask them for advice and prices first.

  • 4 litres Hi fill primer
  • 8 litres thinners

  • With 4 litres of primer, you are going to mix about 6 litres of thinners to make 10 litres.. enough for about 6 coats of your car.. with 2 litres left over for equipment cleaning.
  • A whole bunch of wet n dry sandpaper, in 120, 400 and 800 grit.

  • 1200 is also useful for removing orange peel after spraying, but shouldnt be necessary unless you are working on a top coat. Coarser than 120 grit is likely to create extra scratches and extra work, never use it unless you are working on bog, and even then only to remove the high bits. You can sand dry if cutting down bog, otherwise alway sand wet.
  • A bunch of hard work and patience.
 

Andrew1994

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Thanks mate I know how to out bog in an Sand it out I've done alot of spraying aswell as I work at a fiberglassing join. And yes I will be using a primer for sure and I'm using a clear coat awell. Could you give me some info on how many layers I need to do for each step? Thanks for all the help it's really helping me out.
 
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