It takes just a moment to join our fantastic community
Discussion in 'Spray Painting and Panel Beating' started by Andrew1994, Aug 17, 2011.
Thats ok while his annoying people here everyones around at his mums house annoying her.
thats funny, last time i checked (which wasnt long ago, just for confirmation) my car isn't actually classed as a shitbox, but call it what you want. and i can assure you that it is physically impossible to detach your head from your body and throw it away, i honestly dont know where your going with this comment. But quoted for wankerism anyway
oh, and ill send you the pic of the wiper blades because i know your keen.
Yeah man I'm going the orgian colour so I don't have engine bay and door tirms etc
Thanks for the link I'll check it out and ill say it will help me slot
Andrew is one of the colours B147(lotus blue frost I think), if so use that. Its not the best colour out there but when its fresh it looks
really good,but mainly at night.By the way Ive seen worse first time backyarders.True it wont look like a $5000+ job , but at least your having
a go kid!!!!!
ITS BETTER TO TRY AND FAIL, THAN NOT TRY AT ALL
Give him 3 months and he will have the whole car looking good I say. Hes listening, learning, and keen.
Its not a job you can actually fail at. All you can do is create delays. If it runs, rub them out again. If it peels, rub the peel off. Buy enough paint for a lot of coats, and you can just keep painting and rubbing back till you get good enough at it to get a good result. Its a learning curve, stick with it and you will get a nice paint job. Painting cars is something anyone can do, provided they are willing to put in the elbow grease and learn from their mistakes.
Painting cars without making mistakes is what people do a spraypainters trade for. It wouldnt be economic to rub a car back as many times as mine has been for instance... a professional cant afford to make as many mistakes as a backyarder.. the backyarder can just start again.
Thanks guys I'm going to start on Friday Arvo buying my new back bumper and Hopefuly sanding most of it back befor I play my gran final for footy that night yew. Then on Saturday hopefully prime it all up ready for paint in a day or two. And I'm only doing half the car at the Moment. And shmkvs it's a Stratos blue cod is B094 that's what is on the car
Well hopefully have half the car done by the end of the weekend and hope to get some pics up cheers
so is it clear over base or solid?
Not sure yet I havnt got the new paint I'm goon to go buy it tomorrow witch it better solid or base? And what's the difference between the two?
most metallics are clear over base. two stages, spray the colour (base) then spray clear over the top. which is the mixing ratio i told you earlier.
solid colour is just a 1 step process. 2:1+10% to 30%. i find solid MUCH easier simply cos its just one stage. load the paint up, layer on layer on layer. ignore runs, ignore bugs landing in it, ignore peel, just load one layer on top of the next till you run out of paint. then spent the next few years blocking the dry paint and buffing for a perfect finish.
but i have always been able to get clear a lot flatter off the gun so there is less sanding later on. dunno why, its just always flowed better than solids. problem is its easy to stuff one stage, especially if you are doing the whole car all at once. all it takes is for you to brush the air hose on the fresh paint, or get a run in the clear (which sometimes takes the base with it) and you have to start all over again. bloody frustrating if you are just finishing the first coat of clear after doing the entire car.
Okay yeah well the side panels I did I put 3 layers of paint then Sprayed a few layers of clear over the top with out rubing it back but that didn't have an amazing finsh. But i will still probably go that way as I like the look of the paint with the clear over the top. but it I can get a better finsh by doing it with solid?ill keen to try it that way. Do you still put a clear over it when you do this process ? Or just rub it back and give it a good cut and polish with the buff?
yeah solid is just solid. no clear. if you get it good enough off the gun you wont have to sand it back. but as its your first time, and you are prolly doing it from your backyard, then prepare to sand/polish it
Oh yeah true well I got a buff and some good cut and polish from work and when sanding it back i use 2000grid? Got alot of different sand paper at work just need to know witch one to grad. Also when i'm buying the paint I ask for the solid 2 pack? Sanded the hole front of the car this afternoon so all ready to be painted on the weekend just need to grab the paint
Most metallics? Bit of mis-information there
I think you mean all metallics
well considering the metallic green i have done on my impala (chev colour 8692 sea-mist jade to be exact) can be used in either COB or straight colour. then yeah, i feel i am justified to say "most".
but thanks for your input.
I used the rubber you get for holding in flyscreens, worked for me well.
2000 is maybe a bit overboard. You can go with 320, then 800, then straight to the cutting compound it will come up well. Save you a lot of time that way. Blocking back with 2000 is a slooooow painful process and wont get you any noticably better results in the end.
I use 1200 sometimes doing touchups, but otherwise I only really use 120, 320 and 800. Sometimes I might have something inbetween because the hardware store ran out of something I guess. Heavier grits like 80 or 60 I use purely for taking the top off bog, never touch paint with them or you will need to go back to bare metal to remove the scratches they leave.
Okay sweet only reason i thought 2000 was because with gel coat you will never get the scratchs out if you use a corser grid then 2000. But paint is alot different as I'm learning, so i can put a clear coat on if it dosent look the best with just a sand and buff? thanks you guys have been a big help and I'll be starting tomorrow
Pic will also be updated.
yeah personally i would try and stick to 1000 or above, but dakster is right, itll take you ages to get it all flat. i started blocking the white off my vk with 600 and took forever to get the 600 scratches out. so i have been sticking with 1000 since then.
Yeah I think I'll got the 1000 grid might take long but most probably have a better finsh yeah?
better finish: no. the finish is about how much work you put into it. i prefer to wet sand over buffing, so i would rather spend more time quietly sanding away with the radio going that with a buff whirring away and spraying water/cutters all over me. sanding= losing the tips of your fingers, buffing= wet loud and bloody annoying lol.
daksters way is perfectly fine and will work the same as mine, just means more time with the buff, less time with the sand paper. but still equal amounts of time in total. the finish all depends on how much time you put into it.
Separate names with a comma.