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HORRIBLE bashing noise from rear end. DIFF?

Danc91

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Its not just the tailshaft is it?
Haven't heard from the mechanic yet so I'm not too sure, when they heard the sound they seemed to think drive shaft or diff but can't say for sure without looking i guess, when I rang my mechanic and explained it they said could be a tail shaft too if not the other options are a seized up wheel bearing or something. The whole back right wheel is jumping and moving when the boise happens and it's doing it driving straight as well as turning so yeah I dunno what the most likely cause is. If it was the diff would it do it while driving straight as well or just turning? The cars only done 95000kms. Guessing if it's the diff then it's been thrashed pretty hard
 

MrBags

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Always worth a few phone calls to see. I have a complete NON LSD Auto centre out of a WM Caprice that you are welcome to for nothing if it gets you out of the ****. Was fine in the car when I took it out, just went to 3.7 LSD.
 

Danc91

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Always worth a few phone calls to see. I have a complete NON LSD Auto centre out of a WM Caprice that you are welcome to for nothing if it gets you out of the ****. Was fine in the car when I took it out, just went to 3.7 LSD.
Thanks appreciate the offer still haven't heard from the mechanic, would a non lsd be what came stock in the ve ss utes would you know? I don't know all the differences and what it all means the. The 2.92 on holmart for $1600 says LSD. Unsure what's on the Ute now. https://www.holmart.com.au/holden-commodore-ve-vf-wm-wn-v8-2.92-lsd-diff-omeg
 

MrBags

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I would have thought an SS would be LSD as standard.
 

Skylarking

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As soon as one hears big thumps while driving, they should really pull over immediately. If they're mechanically minded, after a quick visual inspection to ensure nothing is obviously loose or about to fall off, they could drive away at reduced speed. However, if one is not mechanically minded and more noise is heard or wobbles felt, it's a really really bad idea to continue to drive as you can't assess if you are risking life and limb. In such cases, it's best to have the car trucked to a workshop close to home.

For those less mechanically minded, roadside membership is ideal to include with your vehicle insurance as it's not a costly add-on and provides road side assistance and free towing. So, consider chalking this as a learning experience.

As for the workshop where you left your car, I would have thought the first thing they would have done (in your presence) was raise the car on a hoist and visually check the rear of the vehicle to confirm all bits are attached nice and tight as they should be (exhaust, shocks, wheel nub/carrier, trailing arms, links, brake calipers, drive shafts, diff, etc). Then by simply rotating the drive shaft by hand and then each wheel by hand, this should have highlighted if there was anything binding up the rotating bits and as a result given them a rather strong hint as to what could be wrong. All this shouldn't have taken them any more than 10 minutes at a leisurely pace. So in my view they should have been able to provide a repair quote.

As is, it all seems very undefined and open ended at the moment.

Simply leaving a car at a workshop for them to start dismantling as part of their diagnosis process before any quote can be given puts you in a rather compromised and less than ideal position should you be unhappy with their estimated repair costs. In these cases, if your unhappy with the repair costs, all you can do is say "no thanks" and pay them for their diagnosis, then have your car trucked away with oily bits on the back seat. Less than ideal which is why it's always a good idea to try and avoid such situations. Sometime, such situations are impossible to avoid because of the nature/type of fault but I don't think this case was one of the impossible ones. A quote should have been forthcoming on the day you rocked up (pun not intended).

If it was me, I'd drop by unannounced and check out what is happening. If things haven't progressed and nothing dismantled, I'd consider trucking the car somewhere else as I feel the situation should have been handled differently.
 

Danc91

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Just called them then to see if they have looked at it and they said they've had it up on the hoist and it's definitely the diff saying it's all black and are metal bits in the oil and it's stuffed so that's worst case and not what I wanted to hear... he said he priced up a brand new 2.92 Lsd from holden and it's just under 3000 for just parts then there labour and oils too so I guess that's a bit excessive if I can get the one off holmart for $1600 for the same thing? Or I'm open to ideas. He doesn't recommend a reco job or a second hand one if I'm going to keep the car for a while. ****...
 

losh1971

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Why not reco? Don't they replace the whole centre anyway when overhauling those Diffs?
 

Danc91

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Why not reco? Don't they replace the whole centre anyway when overhauling those Diffs?
Dunno he says not many people in the area like to do them and if I'm gonna keep it for a long time better off getting a new one with warranty and stuff but yeah I dunno what to do.. that's ruined my day big time considering I've had the car a month and I'm already gonna be putting thousands in it to fix.. I'm shattered.
Would love to know if the previous owner got a hint of it going bad and that's a reason he sold it or if I'm just extremely unlucky and something like this can just happen at any time but surely it doesn't get so bad and undrivable within a month of buying it. I've been driving it careful and don't even think I've done 1000kms in it yet as I've been driving my other car too
 

dgp

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I just looked up my brochure, I had a VE II Thunder Ute but manual, and the Auto version got the 2.92:1 ratio, while the Manual got the 3.45:1 ratio.
If I were you, If you can afford an OTR and tune, I would start looking around for a used 3.45:1 diff and put that in (don’t do this if you travel long distances on the Hwy all the time), and get the tune done at the same time. There may be a member on here who has a perfectly good used diff laying around with that ratio. A lot of guys upgraded to a 3.7:1 or even 3.9:1 in their manual cars for the extra poke.
If you are not ready to do any mods, look around for a second hand 2.92:1 or take up MrBags on his very generous offer to get you out of trouble until you decide what direction you are going with it. At the very least, you can replace your LSD with the single spinner, and start looking around for a replacement LSD.
Start making calls to diff repair places, you never know what they might have in the shop.
I would also be inclined to take Skylarkings advice after they quoted you for a brand new Holden diff. They didn’t even try and help out their customer by contacting diff specialist. This is probably because they get the Holden diff at a great trade deal, and charge you retail.
 

Danc91

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Dunno if I buy the one off holmart and put that in or tow it somewhere closer to home for a reco or to a performance shop and go all out and spend even more but I haven't had the car long enough to know if there's anything else wrong with it yet so thats risky.. Guessing it's gonna lock up and be hard to move even getting it on a tow truck
 
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