How can i add traction control to a Stock VY Executive?

My VY Berlina Series 2 doesn't give forceback either. Plus one for T/C being a pain though, especially when pulling out into a gap in traffic, then it cuts the engine power and the car just sits for a few seconds. In some instances it is dangerous.

 

I agree, its very dangerous.

I've pulled out into gaps in the traffic that are quiet large in wet conditions and had it cut in. My hairy arse hole has ended up in my throat on a few occasions. Now I just turn it off everytime it rains. Easier to be easy on the throttle, and just accept the fact its going to spin a little.

 

I have to turn t/c if i am driving on gravel roads cause its like the computer thinks i have always got wheel spin happening

 

Mine was a pain and i also thought it was dangerous untill i needed to change my tyres, i put some good quality rubber on and the traction control hardly dver kicks in now.

 

It sounds like - traction control is dangerous unless you drive like a granny - but if you drive like a granny you are not likely to benefit from it.....

 

Its handy when you're driving down a highway at 100km/h in wet conditions.
Around town its just annoying.

 

Only if you have cheap rubber if you dont me a tight ass and spend some money you will be fine

 

You raise a good point there, if you find your traction control is overly intrusive it could well be that you tyres are either worn or cheapies that have crap wet weather performance.

 

lol i said that my tyres were no good in the wet and that they were brand new on the car when i bought it so im just waiting for them to wear out... apparently that isnt an excuse for p platers though to wait for the tyres to wear out lol

 

I'd perhaps link it with LSD on top of that. My tyres aren't cheap ($390 a corner) but I don't have LSD which I think is largely to blame for the T/C being so intrusive. I doubt i'd have anywhere near the issues if I had an LSD diff as well.

 

When i first got my car it didnt have a LSD and it was like everyone here is saying, it was very intrusive. I got some bridgestone G III fitted and have never looked back and you have to be doing something realy dum to get it to step out (and i have a manual) in the dry and in the wet you can loose it yes but the grip level is still very good and you still have to mean it some watt. They did cost a touch over $300 a corner.
When it comes to tyres a general rule is that a hard tyre will last a long time but not be that good in the wet. Note not all but most
soft tyres will not last as long but give you good grip. Again not all but most
My car now has a lsd

Bridgestone no longet make the G III but have replaced it with the adrenlain which are a bit under the $300 mark. I as yet dont have them on the back so im not that sure about the traction side but i do have them on the front and in the wet they stop well.

When i was getting my fronts replaced there was a poster that said ACA did a indepent test and found that a car using the brigdstone tyres ( it did list which one but im not sure now which) stoped 20m shorter in the wet over the same car with a low cost import tyre. it also went on to say that the car with the brigdstone's stoped 2m short from the impact point they had set for the test.
After reading that i couldnt believe that the you can buy tyres here in aust that perform so bad, the govermant tells us what we can and cant do for just about everything but you can put crap tyres on your car when there are better ones around???


You see it all the time on the news that "P" platers are having accidents and i would realy like to know what tyres they have

 

well we live in a bad enough granny state as it is so if they started doing that i would seriously lose my sh*t... also their theory is that you should have enough of a gap to be able to break in an emergency situation anyway... also if your doing high ks a year bridgestones are ****... they're soft and grippy but only last 20,000 or 30,000 ks... ive never had them but thats what other people have told me... it would depend on how you drive as well but you want some compromise between grip and longevity
ive had a few people recomend kumho tyres... the mechanic i take my car to uses them and he says there probably the best all round tyre in terms of grip, longevity and cost
also i just got a set off better rotors and pads and i do have much better breaking even in the wet with some sh*tty import tyres on... that and if you drive the car right you dont have to worry... straighten it up out of the corner and then plant it and you should have all the grip you need unless you have a v8 im geussing lol

 

** wrong section, retracted post **

 

Lol i would also lose it but in saying that if you where forced to buy the better tyres they would come down in price because they would sell more of them.

I agree you might get less kms of other tyrers but when i hit the brakes i want it to stop and also when i give it some i want it to go and not slip over all over the place or skid out in a corrner. Im not saying there the best but they do give good grip and there may well be a better tyre for the price but im happy to pay what do for what i have. everyone has to find that comprise of cost v performance but there are lots of people that would just walk in and get the cheapest they can find.
I also tow my boat and trailers, with the extra weight pushing behind you the better tyres help big time.



At the end of the day you can drive as safe as you want but there are other drivers on the road that can affect you regardless how much of a gap you leave. If you ask me tyres and brakes should not be a area where you should cut corners to save money.

 

have to agree with you there... sometimes i just wonder how they can justify $300 for a tyre... are they charging that much cause they know they can get it or cause the tyres worth that much?? if they were worth it i would probably get em

 

I've got Bridgestone Adrenalin RE001's (the Jap made ones) and even planting it with a single spinner around a tight corner (20-30km/h) it spins a little from 2500rpm then hooks up at 3500rpm. Any other situation in the dry they won't spin at all. They even ride better then the standard tyres (Bridgestone ER30).

You really are missing out if you have cheap tyres - the single largest bang for buck upgrade you can do to your car. Money well spent imo. I seriously don't understand people who justify putting a full exhaust on their V6 commodore which does frak all for performance, then they go and put some cheap chinese tyres on it. Then there are the people that bitch about how there is no point getting expensive tyres because they wear out, or because they have 65 inch wheels and they can't afford good rubber. Well if they didn't drive like spastics or have a retarded choice of suspension springs and wheels that wouldn't happen. I've done 10,000km on my RE001s which are supposed to wear out quickly, and i still have 85%+ tread.

If you import tyres from the US, it's way cheaper for the more premium tyres that cost $300+ a corner here. Check out tirerack.com
You can get Bridgestone RE050A in 235/45R17 for ~$190 a corner + shipping. They are probably the best street tyre in terms of wet/dry performance and longevity.

 

100% adreed, its not only the grip level its the qualtiy of the ride.
I first got the G III on my VS with 17" rims, the car came with some cheap crap and the car was horrible to drive but once i got the new rubber it was a totally different car.
The same was for my current car (VY) it cam with some falken tyres and again poor handling and a harsh ride. Got the G III its all good now

 

I disabled the traction control permanently on my VX after 2 weeks of owning it, it just shitted me every time i pulled out my driveway it'd cut in and leave me without power with cars flying at you at 80kph, Im gonna get a LSD instead. I just don't like the idea of it cutting power when i could potentially need it to get out of a bad situation.

 

How do you disable it without screwing up the ABS?

 

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au...2209-vy-how-disable-traction-control-etc.html

A better way i've seen is a little circuit that 'presses the traction button' (shorts the button contacts momentarily) every time the car is started.