How do get bolt out?

[blinky phil]

i have tried an easy out i have a set but the bolts are lock tight 243 at 35nm approx. when they broke off

 

[pablo]

There is available a 'three sided punch' (triangular shape) which is hammered into a pre-drilled hole in broken bolt, which will 'broach' (cut) three slots in the hole which will enable the punch to grip and turn the broken bolt when the punch is turned.

Engineers supplies should have/know about them.

Though, I am surprised if the 'mechanic' at Repco doesn't know or have heard about this way of removing broken studs/bolts.

Easy-outs are not always the way to go, if they break off, you are nackered, and they tend to slip and expand the hole jambing the bloody bolt further.

Heat WILL soften your 243 and release its grip.

The last resort is to have the broken piece 'spark eroded' out by someone with an E.D.M., which will undoubtly require crank removal.

Pablo

 

[Drewie]

A few items that may be of use... The left hand drills apparently sometimes jam and unscrew the broken bolt. I cut and pasted this from a web site.

Notice that these are LEFT-HAND drills, and they must be used with a reversible drill. Ours are by Snap-On tools, and Snap-On offers more than one model of Left Hand drills. Snap-On tools are typically excellent in quality, but other tool companies also make left-hand drills. (Check with the tool dept. at Sears, or your favorite tool store.)

One set of drills shown are short length High Speed Drills, and are rated for drilling in steel and other metals.

The other set shown are COBALT, long length, left-hand drills. The Cobalt is harder material than the standard high-speed drills, and the Cobalt drills are our choice for drilling out grade 8 bolts.

 

[Promotec]

Ok what you need to do is have a nut welded onto the broken bolt with a mig welder, welding the inner hole of the nut to the end of bolt where it is broken.
i use to work in exhaust shops and was a mechanic many years ago, this is your best bet, you want someone really proficient on the end of the mig welder, as you may not get many shots at it if the motor is out of car take it down to a good engineering shop.

Once nut is secureley welded on, then heat around the bolt with oxy acetylene torch then wind it out with a good hex socket. heating the flywheel may be of detriment to flywheel but not as much as not getting it off the crank at all.
Regards Chris

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

You keep mentioning the torque of the bolt, once the head is gone there is no tension on the thread. The only thing holding it in is the loctite. Once you break that it will screw out by hand. Spray it with a solvent.

 

[blinky phil]

yes n it did occur to me yeswterday that there would be no tension on the bolt no the head has snapped off, and i have been given the option of spark erosion , or electrolitic removal if thats how its spelt,? which i was told would cost a few hundred dollares which seems cheaper than another motor, thaNKs for all your help, all i believe my problem is more or lss solved.

 

[Promotec]

refering to when the head is off the bolt it will come out easy, as no torque on it.
Great fairy tale, but not reality, metal binds corodes swells etc etc etc
good luck...

 

[pablo]

Hey blinky, all the ideas that have been presented to you will work, depending on the accessability of the work piece and what tools and skills are available.
I personally have removed busted bolts from various parts by carefully drilling them out.
Can't be done in a hurry, just carefully drilling in the center of broken bolt, first with a small drill, to keep the hole in the center, then gradually increasing the drill size till you just break through into the thread. Then, with a sharp small screwdriver, or something with a point, you can prise the thread and collapse it inward to be gripped with a pointy nose pair of pliers and yank it out.
Just takes time and patience!

Pablo

 

[blinky phil]

Well today im going to be trying to weld small nut to the end ot the broken off bolts and heating with oxi torch , will inform on result

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

refering to when the head is off the bolt it will come out easy, as no torque on it.
Great fairy tale, but not reality, metal binds corodes swells etc etc etc
good luck...

When installing a new bolt, it is no fairy tale. Also, metal corrosion is not torque.

Welding a nut to the end of the bolt will work, I have removed many a manifold stud using this method. And they have been seized.