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My mounting method in a VZ - will work in a VT as well...
6mm Aluminium checkerplate (real stuff, not the Ricebarn plastic muck...) with a piano hinge along the front edge - swings down to get to the power/speaker wiring if needed. Amps mount "right way up", and the al plate gives additional heatisinking. My amps hardly break a sweat.
To finish off nicely the mounting screw threads are tapped into the plate, and the top surface can be buffed to a mirror shine - a light coat of lacquer keeps it looking that way. (my sub box now houses 2 x 12" units - at 2 cuft it's the perfect size for that setup... Just need a better sub amp now... )
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/car-audio/70602-stereo-planning-questions.html
Cheerz!
I built a mdf board and screwed my amp into it at the back of the boot so its on show with a neon coming down on it... looks pretty mint.
G'day DUK13Y - I will get back to you shortly Mate...
swweefu - theres a kind of "box section" along the forward edge of the shelf, the hinge is attached to the underside of that. Steel pop rivets. (don't use aluminium ones, vibrations from serious subs will eventually flog out the rivets and you'll get rattles - use a strip of foam double sided tape along here too, to prevent same...)
Another pic here of the brackets (two on each side) which hold the "amp shelf" up. Basically a pair of "L" brackets, cut from 40x40x3mm aluminium angle, drilled and tapped - one with a clearance hole, the other with a M6 thread. The threaded bracket is attached underneath the parcel shelf, and the one with the clearance hole attached to the checkerplate.
Once the plate is swung up, allen-head 6mm screws go though, and get tightened up to stop rattles. (yeh, I know - broken record... I HATE RATTLES!)
That's it!