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How have people done there fibre glass reverse cowls to steal bonnets

Discussion in 'Spray Painting and Panel Beating' started by Vs hsv manta, Jan 11, 2015.

  1. Vs hsv manta

    Vs hsv manta New Member

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    Like title says

    Iv got a fer idea on how to do this but just wonding on how others have done this to get as many ideas as possible

    Thanks
     
  2. ari666

    ari666 250,000 hits

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  3. immortality

    immortality Home of the smoky breakfast Bacon! Staff Member

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  4. hi_ryder

    hi_ryder Donating Member

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    so reverse cowl to prevent theft? im confused...
     
  5. Vs hsv manta

    Vs hsv manta New Member

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    ???

    No I'm confused

    What anything got to do with theft??

    It's just a bonnet and I'm playing with fibre glass so thought I would give it a go, iv also got a factory bonnet I'm painting both at the same time

    Just want one with reverse cowl for a slight bit of tuff ness sometimes and the hot days as it gets a little hot under the bonnet
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2015
  6. try_again

    try_again Member

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    steal = theft
    steel = metal
     
  7. Vs hsv manta

    Vs hsv manta New Member

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    Bahahaha good call, I did not see that one lol
     
  8. uniacidz

    uniacidz Harden the Frak Up

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    Ooops all sorted
     
  9. gossie

    gossie Well-Known Member

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    Another CRINGE.
     
  10. Vs hsv manta

    Vs hsv manta New Member

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    Ok so after every one has a laugh at my spelling mistake I'm still after products to use to stick fibre glass to steel

    I don't trust sica flex, that will show cracks in the paint real quick

    Obviously the 2 part epoxy resins are the way to go but nearly always require a special gun for the $70-$100 extra or sometimes more

    Things like this 3M panel bond 8115
    This is my pick so far

    The 8116 is also good

    3M Panel Bonding Adhesive 08115


    3m 5200
    This would be the cheaper option as a standard caulk gun can be used

    ##3M

    Fusor 116

    Aparently not as good as the 3m epoxy items above

    Lord Fusor 116 Plastic to Metal Cross Bonding Adhesive (Medium)

    Sem39747

    SEM 39747 Multi-Purpose Panel Adhesive - SEM Adhesives
     
  11. ari666

    ari666 250,000 hits

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  12. Nut Kracker

    Nut Kracker Donating Member

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    Agree with above.
    Over time, fibre glass will end up splitting and cracking.
     
  13. Vs hsv manta

    Vs hsv manta New Member

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    So your saying if I sica flex it down and rivet it then when I smooth it all over so it all looks like 1 panel and paint it I won't end up with a crack line latter on down the line ??

    Would you leave the pop rivets in permently or drill them out after fully cured ??
     
  14. ari666

    ari666 250,000 hits

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    pre drill your holes
    counter sink the holes with a bigger drill
    put a line of sikaflex on, more on the inner edge so it doesnt squeeze out the outside
    put all your pop rivets in the cowl
    lower the cowl down onto the bonnet using the rivets as a guide
    pop them up
    if sikaflex comes out, get rid of it, you cant really paint over it. well you can, but its best not to have any
    then when its all cured, fill in the tops of the pop rivets. you could fill the gap between the cowl and the bonnet too if you felt like it, but i supposed it depends on what the gap looked like. if it were tight, then you probably dont need to.

    the pop rivets really just keep the cowl in place while the sikaflex curesonce its dry, its not coming off.

    i do this with HVAC units when i do conversions. a couple of times ive fked up and glued the box like 3mm off, and pulling it back apart nearly destroys the plastic.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2015
  15. Vs hsv manta

    Vs hsv manta New Member

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    I'm not after the look where the reverse cowl is just sitting on the bonnet, or like I have bolted it to it like this

    538634b7.jpg Photo by cava454 | Photobucket

    I want it moulded so it all looks like 1 like this

    Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting

    Sica flex is to flex able and when I glass and mould it over it won't take long for a crack line to apear from the expansion difference and flex in the sica flex

    A 2 pac epoxy is nearly the only way to do this on a bonnet that has any chance of holding the 2 stiff and strong enough to fight the force of thermal dynamics

    I know some of these do crack but a lot hold for 10 years witch is good enough for me

    I may even fibre glass the entire bonnets having a mould release agent between the 2 and remove and then remove the steel bonnet skin and fit my fibre glass one yet
     
  16. VS 5.0

    VS 5.0 Well-Known Member

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    Hit up Jecs for info.
     
  17. 383 hatch

    383 hatch Well-Known Member

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    Honestly, I think I'm yet to see a fibreglass scoop on a steel bonnet that doesn't have a crack or some sort of imperfection. I think you're much better off just buying a full fibreglass bonnet with the scoop already on it. Not sure on the legalities of fibreglass bonnets in Mackay though.
     
  18. Vs hsv manta

    Vs hsv manta New Member

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    Yeah I think your right 383

    The severe heat here in oz doesn't help with the expansion problem of fibre glass and steel either

    I'm leaning toward fibre glass bonnet as well
     
  19. hi_ryder

    hi_ryder Donating Member

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    #### fiberglass. find a metal one and weld that bish on...

    [​IMG]
     
  20. EYY

    EYY Well-Known Member

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    Meh, make your own. Pretty sure ari's vk thread shows how to make a cowl with an angle grinder and some bog :p (for the record, i was pretty impressed lol)
     

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