Fu Manchu
We’ll get together. Have a few laughs.
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2006
- Messages
- 17,909
- Reaction score
- 22,567
- Points
- 113
- Location
- WA.
- Members Ride
- VZ Crewman, VZ Cross 8, & ya mum.
Today I got rid of the window winders the kids stuff about with in the back and upgraded to power windows in my Crewman.
It is a base model Crewman.
I read through the existing how to on this.
It degenerates into 349 random questions.
So I thought a new "How To" with photos would do a good job.
The job turned out to be way easier than I thought it would be.
I bought two rear harness for a Crewman, but on inspection it looks like its the same harness as a wagon.
I bought two power window regulators. Again I'm pretty sure they are the same as a wagon. (even though the door shape is bit different)
I bought a new master switch to suit rear power windows.
I started out by removing the kick panels (lift the little moulding off the top, the crews are in there.)
Then went to unplug the door harness by pulling the seal between the door and the cab out. Then its easy access to the plug.
looked at the plugs and bugger me they were the same pins.
Get the door trim off and sure enough all the wiring was there ready, plugs and all.
Not all models will have the harness there.
(So. If anyone wants two harnesses pm me.)
I didn't even need the kick panel off.
So first door took ages.
Second door took about 30mins.
Take the door trim off.
I cut the electrical tape holding one of the plugs away.
Got the switch plugged in.
Carefully got the loom off the door with a brick... no with a small delicate screw driver.
Carefully pulled the dust cover off, and was careful not to wreck the tacky black muck or tear the plastic.
Then drilled out the rivets.
See. Then tapped them of with a hammer and a screw driver.
Rivets Off
A bit hard to see, but there is the other part of the loom tucked away here.
Carefully cut the electrical tape holding it away.
This is the plug for the motor.
Manoeuvred the manual regulator out so I didn't scratch the inside of the door or the window tinting.
Got the power regulator ready.
Lubed it up better than a...
Don't be too concerned about the window, mine was easy to lift up and down and it even stayed where I wanted it in the frame.
I plugged the motor and the switches in.
Moved the motor to about the middle (watch your fingers)
Moved the glass down about half way
Behind the white plastic bit is a thingy that slides into the groove for the window.
Then I manoeuvred it round to get the holes to line up.
Now this is where I don't get a few things?
Why is everyone using bolts?
It's a rivet. Its easier to use and install than counting to 3.
It's cheaper than nuts and bolts.
I got mine from Holden. (part number on bag I assume)
Then, using a standard rivet gun (it was cheap from the hardware) I installed the rivets.
Pretty much job done.
Just get the new door trim back on.
You'll need a new trim because you won't have a winder handle anymore and you will need to mount the switch into the door trim.
Hope that helps someone.
It is a base model Crewman.
I read through the existing how to on this.
It degenerates into 349 random questions.
So I thought a new "How To" with photos would do a good job.
The job turned out to be way easier than I thought it would be.
I bought two rear harness for a Crewman, but on inspection it looks like its the same harness as a wagon.
I bought two power window regulators. Again I'm pretty sure they are the same as a wagon. (even though the door shape is bit different)
I bought a new master switch to suit rear power windows.
I started out by removing the kick panels (lift the little moulding off the top, the crews are in there.)
Then went to unplug the door harness by pulling the seal between the door and the cab out. Then its easy access to the plug.
looked at the plugs and bugger me they were the same pins.
Get the door trim off and sure enough all the wiring was there ready, plugs and all.
Not all models will have the harness there.
(So. If anyone wants two harnesses pm me.)
I didn't even need the kick panel off.
So first door took ages.
Second door took about 30mins.
Take the door trim off.
I cut the electrical tape holding one of the plugs away.
Got the switch plugged in.
Carefully got the loom off the door with a brick... no with a small delicate screw driver.
Carefully pulled the dust cover off, and was careful not to wreck the tacky black muck or tear the plastic.
Then drilled out the rivets.
See. Then tapped them of with a hammer and a screw driver.
Rivets Off
A bit hard to see, but there is the other part of the loom tucked away here.
Carefully cut the electrical tape holding it away.
This is the plug for the motor.
Manoeuvred the manual regulator out so I didn't scratch the inside of the door or the window tinting.
Got the power regulator ready.
Lubed it up better than a...
Don't be too concerned about the window, mine was easy to lift up and down and it even stayed where I wanted it in the frame.
I plugged the motor and the switches in.
Moved the motor to about the middle (watch your fingers)
Moved the glass down about half way
Behind the white plastic bit is a thingy that slides into the groove for the window.
Then I manoeuvred it round to get the holes to line up.
Now this is where I don't get a few things?
Why is everyone using bolts?
It's a rivet. Its easier to use and install than counting to 3.
It's cheaper than nuts and bolts.
I got mine from Holden. (part number on bag I assume)
Then, using a standard rivet gun (it was cheap from the hardware) I installed the rivets.
Pretty much job done.
Just get the new door trim back on.
You'll need a new trim because you won't have a winder handle anymore and you will need to mount the switch into the door trim.
Hope that helps someone.
