how much to tune a ssv manual?

[Yergin]

With my car it certainly doesn't run any better after the tune, fuel economy is worse because AFM was disabled. As soon as I can get back to Perth I'm having the stock MAF tune reinstalled.

This comment says it all, Buys a V8 modifies it and MAFLESS tunes it then complains about fuel economy, news flash IT'S A ####EN V8 if fuel economy was a deciding factor you should have bought an LPG model Omega....

 

[jesta83]

This thread needs a :lock: put on it, this guy is just a cashed up, know-it-all flog.

 

[WazzaV8]

Re read my post, programmed tolerance referred to the programming not the sensor itself.

This isn't a pissing contest. The OP asked a question I gave him my opinion that to get the most out of his mods get a tune.

You had your 2 cents, let the OP get on with his thread.

And I'm telling him that if he retains his O2 sensor and MAF sensor a tune does FA,but that's only my personal EXPERIENCE. MY advice is to drive it for 6 months before a tune and compare what he's getting for his money.

 

[WazzaV8]

This comment says it all, Buys a V8 modifies it and MAFLESS tunes it then complains about fuel economy, news flash IT'S A ####EN V8 if fuel economy was a deciding factor you should have bought an LPG model Omega....

And if you knew anything the manufactures of Pacmakers and OTR"s claim to increase fuel economy and the same as tune shops, of course I know increasing horsepower reduces fuel economy, we even de-rate motors where I work so we have only the horsepower needed for ruling grades to save fuel. It wants a whinge, it was an observation, I don't give a **** about the price of fuel as I'm on 160k a year and my only expense apart from running my cars and bike is my $12 a week rent.

 

[PIR4TE]

$1190 for a dyno tune and a piggy back thingy that allows to swap back to stock is reasonably good value on the face of it...
BUT your car probably will not run that well if you flick the switch back to stock after the mods anyway so limited value.
I've seen JC members claim 270rwkw tuned from same mods on an L98, and if it makes you feel better it cost me about three times that to get that power with an auto L77 (however its more tricky with e85 and AFM).
Your manual ECU-only tune is worth between $500-$800 in my experience, and the computer thingy is reasonably a coupla hundred but unless dude spends a good few hours tweaking on the rollers to reach not less than 270rwkw...
YOU ARE PAYING TOO MUCH, like Wazza said, likely another smartarse with a crappy lappy hocking a slightly cooked flash to mop the hp that's left on the table from stock plus mods, a spin on the rollers to print out a healthy dyno curve, and a useless piggy back thingy that saves you a trip back to pay the bloke to reflash if you ever need to tear down all your mods and refit as stock. Keep looking on eBay, there's a jungle full of discount LS tuning experts.
And to the sycophantic tuner-worshipping shitstirrers, I agree with what Wazza said, there's not much to the dubious business of charging MORE THAN A GRAND for a 3mb file upload, and the process of increasing hp is still mechanically straightforward.

 

[BehaveSS]

Hi all, The engineer in me says the operating range of the O2 and the mass flow sensors must be well within their functioning range to handle the slightly increased flow from NA upgradeds, as long as it's not forced induction. The sudden odd behaviour from newly upgraded NA cars is due to the ecu's pre learnt parameters changed and it needs time to re learn and optimize it self to achieve pre set stoichiometry ratio. Knock sensors will prevent pinging and protect the engine if it gets to that stage. Over time it should learn how to run to achieve factory targets.

Having saidthat, Factory Ecu won't get the full potential out of those mods, as theres room to play to get more power at a sacrifice of using more fuel (lowering the AFR slightly from stoichiometry 14.7 for petrol) now that the bottleneck in the system have changed.

 

[tyrefryer]

Having saidthat, Factory Ecu won't get the full potential out of those mods, as theres room to play to get more power at a sacrifice of using more fuel (lowering the AFR slightly from stoichiometry 14.7 for petrol) now that the bottleneck in the system have changed.

Thats not how it works. You wouldnt be lowering the AFR at all. Thats what PE is there for, otherwise a car will always trim to stoich as it should.

OTR & Exhaust => cooler intake air and better flow of the hot exhaust gas => more oxygen in the mixture before ignition => more fuel required to burn all oxygen and maintain 14.7afr

Also the cooler mix will allow for spark timing advances as there is less chance of detonation.

 

[WazzaV8]

Hi all, The engineer in me says the operating range of the O2 and the mass flow sensors must be well within their functioning range to handle the slightly increased flow from NA upgradeds, as long as it's not forced induction. The sudden odd behaviour from newly upgraded NA cars is due to the ecu's pre learnt parameters changed and it needs time to re learn and optimize it self to achieve pre set stoichiometry ratio. Knock sensors will prevent pinging and protect the engine if it gets to that stage. Over time it should learn how to run to achieve factory targets.

Having saidthat, Factory Ecu won't get the full potential out of those mods, as theres room to play to get more power at a sacrifice of using more fuel (lowering the AFR slightly from stoichiometry 14.7 for petrol) now that the bottleneck in the system have changed.

Here here, when I pick up my series F GTS I won't be going near a MAFless tuner.

 

[Serioushustle]

I don't give a **** about the price of fuel as I'm on 160k a year and my only expense apart from running my cars and bike is my $12 a week rent.

10char

 

[vongy10]

I don't give a **** about the price of fuel.

If you don't care about the price of fuel then why not get a tune for E85? Will make more power and justify your $1000 on a tune.